Cheap Saw Blades

super99

Well-known Member
I'm not much of a woodworker, but I pretend to be one once in a while. I have a cheap Craftsman table saw and an old Skilsaw with a plywood blade on it. I don't use them much, but when I do, you can see the blades warp as you cut. Trying to cut a straight line is nearly impossible. I always figured since I don't use them much, I got the cheapest blades I could buy. Thinking about pretending to be a woodworker again since I retired and have a little more time on my hands, I suppose I should buy some better blades. I made this for the living room to hold the indoor TV antenna from furring strips and plywood. Too cold out to try to finish it, Maybe when it warms up in the spring.

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Shelves are always practical and a good project to work on your woodworking skills while using cheap lumber.

Yes, you might want to upgrade your saw blades. There's a big difference between cheap and not-so-cheap blades.

If you have a cast-iron Craftsman table saw, those can be upgraded. The best thing I did to mine was to replace the original fence with a Delta fence. The Delta is a lot more accurate and it increased the maximum rip width from 24 to 30 inches. Another upgrade is a zero-clearance insert, which helps to reduce tear-out. (You have to put the original insert back in when the blade is angled.)
 
I have used plenty of super cheap blades and never had this issue unless they were binding and heating up, and then it happens with any blade, even expensive ones. Might want to check alignment of your fence etc
 
Is your rip fence set parallel with the saw blade? If not it can cause the blade to bind, not cut parallel, and heat. Something that could save you money. If you normally cut only thinner boards you may be able to use a smaller dia. blade. A smaller blade takes less power to turn at a set speed and costs less, say a 7 1/2" blade on a 10" saw.
 
If I had access to a saw sharpening service I would still buy good blades but since I don't I use Harbor Freight's "Tin" blades and throw them away when they get dull. They work really good for the price.
 
Heat from even slightly dull teeth expands the rim of the blade. the expansion causes the edge to be larger in circumference than the center, forcing it to be out of flat. If it is a quality blade with carbide teeth it can be sharpened. If it is metal tooth get a modest cost carbide blade. Jim
 
I installed a Diablo blade on my 10" Craftsman table saw and it has eliminated the wavy cut line I sometimes
experienced on long ripping jobs. I also set my rip fence just a frog hair wider at the rear and I have less
problem with the board binding. I have never detected the width not being correct as set from the front of the
fence to the blade. It takes less pushing effort to make the cut.

Gene Davis Tennille, Ga.
 
I have some good blades, and some cheap ones, the good ones are Craftsman that I bought with my radial arm back in 73! I have a coupe of carbide blades from HF that seem fine, and I have some real cheap 7 1/4 ones from Menards, it's amazing how long they last. I think carbide is worth the extra now, because it costs so much to get blades sharpened. I cut up old pallets to make stakes for the tree farm, and pallets are full of hard nails and bits of sand. I even took a 7 1/4 and opened the hole up to 25 mm to fit on my Stihl brush cutter!
 
Sometimes a blade will act dull but in reality it just needs a good cleaning. If you want a good quality blade check out Ridge Carbide Tools. Excellent quality and not as expensive as premium name brand blades. If you go to YouTube and check out a channel called Stumpy Nubs he gives you a discount code. It's an entertaining and informative channel.
 
Wood fibers need very sharp cutting edges to shave the wood and make an efficient cut. Even slightly dull will force the blade to plow thru the wood, creating rough cut edges, burning, friction on the blade leading to blade warp, and most of all, makes a very unsafe condition for yourself. Sharp tools are far safer to use than slightly dull, as you have better control of the cutting process.

I didn't hear anything of carbide in the conversation. Do yourself a favor and buy a $10 or $15 carbide blade for you skill saw. Might want to look into buying a chop saw too.

You say you're not much of a wood worker. People often get turned away from the woodworking hobby because of experience with bad tools. Find a friend with some good tools, and try those for a bit, and see the difference. Treat yourself to a few good tools, then see where the hobby leads you.

Let us know what you learn.......
 
About 50 years I bought my first saw, 10 inch craftsman radial arm. It came with the blade in pic .
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Over the years I've bought many carbide blades.
Then I purchase a cheap HF blade sharpener which doesn't work well on carbide.

It does work great on Molly steel blades. I like blades with fewer teeth. Very easy to sharpen once you learn the trick to use the cheapie HF.

Some place on internet I found 28 tooth Molly steel 10 inch blade made by Dewalt. I bought 6 of them. Molly steel is old school. The blade is narrower. Less sawdust. Easier on saw.

Research internet for Molly steel blades without carbide teeth. I saw on Amazon some selling between $8.50 and $15. It's all I will buy. Takes only minutes to sharpen.
George
 
Do you think the grinding stone is the trouble with doing the carbide blades ? I know it takes a "green stone" to grind carbide.
You radial arm saw is very likely like the Craftsman one I have that my Dad bought new around the same time frame.
 
Yep, the green stone is required. Carbide is much harder than normal stones. Blade cuts stone, not the other way.

Steel blades can be made very sharp, sharper than the lower grades of carbide usually encountered. But that comes at the cost of longevity. I used steel for years, same as Geo since that is what came on my first saw. Works really well as long as saw is set up correctly.

The fine finish versions have almost no tooth set, in some cases none, so the kerf, blade and travel movement have to be in perfect alignment to prevent burning or tearing. Carbide teeth are wider than the blade plate and are not as critical due to that builtin clearance.

Down side of carbide is the cost of really good blades, and the eventual cost of sharpening. Premium services, including mailing costs will exceed 60bucks for some of mine. Only a couple of them are worth that. 7 1/4" blades are disposable. Only 10s and 12 get sharpened.
 
I see the harbor freight site list a diamond wheel also comes with the standard wheel in a set. I have never used one ? Don't know how they work.
 
X4 Diablo. Best I’ve used. Wood working is one of my serious hobbies. I have a nephew, sisters kid, and a brother that are professional carpenters. All 3 of us use Diablo saw blades.
cvphoto75976.jpg

SWMBO & I made this bed and 2 matching night stands using Diablo blades.
 
(quoted from post at 03:12:22 02/11/21) X4 Diablo. Best I ve used. Wood working is one of my serious hobbies. I have a nephew, sisters kid, and a brother that are professional carpenters. All 3 of us use Diablo saw blades.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto75976.jpg">
SWMBO & I made this bed and 2 matching night stands using Diablo blades.


Looks nice. I bet your Diablo blades are still sharp enough to make 10 more beds too! Some times it pays to use a better tool. I also use Freud/Diablo blades.
 

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