Farmall H

I have a 1946 h, when it gets a fourth of of the way in to the green on the temperature gauge it dies. When it cools it will start. I replaced the coil but it still dies . So if you could help me out l would be grateful. The h was my dads and my sister and I now own it. I would like to keep it going so our kids can use it. Thanks

If a test light flashes when cranking (12v will work)blinks when the clip is grounded, and the probe touches the coil lead going to the distributor, the points are working. If there is spark coming out of the coil after it quits, probably not spark related. If the hole in the gas cap is plugged, it will die from lack of fuel. If a wire is bad going to the or from the key, fix it. The key switches are sometimes bad while running, wiggle it as it dies. If fuel flows out of the bottom of the carb drain (small plug) for 3 minutes in a steady stream, fuel is being delivered, but the cap as noted could still be the issue. A piece of trash in the tank can intermittently plug the hole to the sediment bowl. Was it converted to 12volts? was the new coil correct for that? Jim

Be careful buying 12 volt coils. Cars start on 12v to the coil and drop to 6v while running.
I have an Allis Chalmers D-10 series III that is 12v, starts and runs on 12v.
I went to an auto parts once and asked for a 12v coil. When the gal set it on the counter, I asked if it was a 12v, she said that is what was marked on the parts bin. When I got back to the park and opened the box out fell a note, be sure to use the resistor.
Good thing that the coil was not the problem, or I would have not been able to finish the caravan. Ended up being a carb float problem.

Dusty

Did you try another tested condenser?

It's going to be spark or fuel.

Need to catch it in the act.

Run it one more time, be ready to check for spark immediately when it quits. A quick check is spark from the coil wire to ground, should jump minimum of 1/2", preferably 3/4". If good there, check at each plug wire, the plug end to ground should have 1/4" spark.

Check the points gap, check the distributor shaft for side play. It needs to be tight or the points will not stay set.

Try an old condenser. The new ones are known for being bad out of the box. Be sure the screw is tight where it mounts.

Feel the coil. If it is getting too hot to hold, or is much hotter than the surrounding components, something is wrong. If it has been converted to 12v, it may be the wrong coil.

If the ignition checks out, run it again until it quits. Be ready to pull the carb drain plug, observe the flow and catch it in a clean glass. Look at what is caught. If it is dirty or water in the bottom, the tank is contaminated and will need to come off and be cleaned and evaluated. If it is flaking rust it will be an ongoing problem.

With the engine off, fuel valve open, the fuel should have a full stream, slow some as the bowl empties, but still flow a stream, not slow to a drip or stop.

If the flow is not good try opening the fuel cap. It could have a vacuum inside if the cap is not vented or the vent is plugged. Start loosening the fuel line at the carb, see if there is flow there. There should be a screen in the inlet fitting. There is also a screen in the separator, and possibly one in the tank. If there is an inline filter, that can be the problem. Inline paper filters don't do well with gravity systems.

Also be sure the fuel line is as far from the exhaust system as practical. If it is too close, or the line has been replaced with copper tube, it mat be vapor locking.

When it quits immediately but cautiously feel the coil. If the coil is too hot to touch you have a coil issue. You can also pour cold water
over the coil and try a restart ..either way it will tell you about your coil.

Take the inline filter out and throw it away. Splice the line back together. It's vapor locking.

Be careful buying 12 volt coils. Cars start on 12v to the coil and drop to 6v while running.
I have an Allis Chalmers D-10 series III that is 12v, starts and runs on 12v.
I went to an auto parts once and asked for a 12v coil. When the gal set it on the counter, I asked if it was a 12v, she said that is what was marked on the parts bin. When I got back to the park and opened the box out fell a note, be sure to use the resistor.
Good thing that the coil was not the problem, or I would have not been able to finish the caravan. Ended up being a carb float problem.

Dusty