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Paint on new cedar siding

H

Hockeygoon

Member
What would you use for primer and paint on brand new cedar siding? I am building my wife her "She Shed" and have cedar siding in the peaks on either end (two stories tall). I'm not looking to save money but want to do it once and not worry about it for the next 10-15 years.
 
If you are going to paint it let it sit for a couple months and dry good. Shingles are often stored outdoors and the center of the bundles get pretty wet. Then when they are on the house in the sun they shrink quite a bit and could cause the paint to crack. Once dry just prime it with a good quality exterior latex primer and paint. If you can get the equipment spraying it would be a lot easier.
 
I've had to replace several planks of shiplap cedar siding on our house. Just two coats of paint, and it's fine after 10+ years. Use a good quality exterior latex paint and it will be fine. Back in the day I used Sears Weatherbeater, obviously that's no longer an option. I've had good luck with the Behr paint sold at HD. And you can't go wrong with Sherwin-Williams products.
 
We have all 12" vertical cedar siding with batts and ours is stained. It has been 20 some years since it was last restained. Where the sun hits all day long it could be redone but is looks fine from the road It soaked up a lot of stain when it was restained as it pernitrates deep into the wood. Hope to get someone in this fall.
 
Sherwin-Williams. Hope you have deep pockets. I painted our house when I was a kid....dad decided to put cedar shakes over lap siding when it was needing replacement. Paint was in the usual gallon containers. Dip a 4" bristle brush all the way to the metal, remove, slap it flat against the siding, wait a few seconds..... remove, reinsert in bucket all the way to the metal, remove, slap it flat.............

On the bright side. On Dish, State Farm has a commercial whereby this lady's "She Shed" was hit by lightening and (she and) dad (dad is doing the work and she is running her mouth about her She Shed) out with a wimpy stream of water in a futile attempt to extinguish the fire. I love it, her verbiage and actions.
 
Lighter colors don't show sun fading as much as darker colors. If you can, avoid semi-transparent stains because they only last about half as long as solid color stains. IMHO, high quality deck and siding stain seem to last as well or better than high quality paint. I've now reached that point in life where it is worth hiring professional painters for the big or high painting jobs.
 

My builder just replaced some one inch thick cedar lap siding on my house then a professikonal painter painted it. He used Sherwin-Williams oil-based primer and let it cure for two days, then painted the top coat with Sherwin-Williams' best latex exterior paint. The exterir paint was nearly $80 per gallon but it looks terrific. the oil primer was tinted and was only about $40 or $50 per gallon.
 
I would give it a year to season out before applying any paint products. Staining will be okay.

I would not recommend White paint on new ceder siding. It will bleed through and form brownish to black streaks all through it.

If you like natural looking cedar, pressure treated or rough cut lumber. Hydraulic fluid is the best wood treatment you can get.
 
(quoted from post at 15:37:53 08/06/20) You have that right. Sherwin Williams is high and their paint is usually watered down where it takes twice as much.
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Of course your mileage can vary, but I use two different painters and they both bid for my small jobs and both use S-W only. Their bids always include them paying for the paint so I doubt they would use S-W if they were getting ripped off. Funny how paint brands can be like Fords vs. Chevy though.
 
My advice is DON'T PAINT IT!. Stain it. With paint you're laying a coat of rubber on that will peel and fall off. Stain it and it will never do that. Might need re-staining after a number of years. Paint means way too much maintenance. Stains come in almost any color. I've done this with all of my cedar siding with great success. Going back about 35 years or so.
 
> My advice is DON'T PAINT IT!. Stain it. With paint you're laying a coat of rubber on that will peel and fall off.

That has not been my experience painting both roughsawn cedar and T-111 pine siding. Paint will adhere very well, BUT you must apply the first coat properly. That means using a BRUSH and really working it into the wood. Get that first coat right, and it will not peel. But if you try to apply paint (or stain) with a roller or (gasp!) sprayer, you will not be happy with the results.
 
My home in SW Ohio has about 40 year old beveled cedar lap siding. It has always been covered with Olympic Solid stain. The stain has never pealed off. But the sun side does weather over maybe 5 or so years and needs re-staining all too often. As an aside .. I wish we never covered our home in cedar it is a huge maintenance issue and now 3 sides have weathered to the point it needs to be replaced. I'm looking at $25 to $30 K to replace the cedar on our not large 2 story home. Either vinyl, Hardy Plank or LP Smart Siding. But NOT more cedar .. that's even more expensive!
 
(quoted from post at 13:37:53 08/06/20) You have that right. Sherwin Williams is high and their paint is usually watered down where it takes twice as much.
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Stephen, I have gone through a few gallons of Sherwin Williams recently painting some interior rooms. I have found it to be very, very thick.
 
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