Graphite Rods and Brazing

I have a HEAVY cast axle with a blown out pivot pin whole. Factory is 1 3/8, it's now pushing 1 3/4

I'm debating my options. If I had a mill I'd do that immediately. I'm just trying to see how I can get it done myself without going out for it.

Could I put a graphite rod in the hole of the proper size then build the wear up with brazing? I know it works with welding, I would assume the same with braze?

Like these:
https://www.mcmaster.com/graphite-rods/

cvphoto50403.jpg



Thanks for any tips, even other ideas,
Brandon
 
Tell the guys that beat it to death the 50 years before me. Most of that excessive grease is probably from me. The kingpins are just as bad, none of the fittings would take grease until I messed with it with penetrating oil and a torch...but too late.

Brandon
 
Greetings Brandon: You might be able to solder in a piece of thin wall steel tubeing, or weld it in place. I have arc welded grey iron castings several times, and have had the best luck with 6000 series electrodes. The nickle alloy rods made for grey iron
usually didn't work as well. One part couldn't be welded with either one. Bad chemistry probably. Good Luck!
 
You might be onto something.

1 1/4 pipe is 1.380 ID
The pin is 1.375 OD, so it'd be a good match

Thank you, you're getting my brain going, my main concern was how to get a decent hole after adding material!!!

Brandon
 
I think you could. There was a series of videos by 'turn right machine works' on Youtube where the author built up a lathe cross slide using graphite or similar cores for shaping his brazing. They were posted on Youtube just a few weeks ago.
 
(quoted from post at 20:43:39 07/14/20) You might be onto something.

1 1/4 pipe is 1.380 ID
The pin is 1.375 OD, so it'd be a good match

Thank you, you're getting my brain going, my main concern was how to get a decent hole after adding material!!!

Brandon

Without a mill, how are you going to get a 1.66" dia. Hole for the 1-1/4" pipe exactly where it needs to be? Will the 1 .38 inside dia. Of the pipe be good enough? Common ERW pipe will have a light weld seam inside. Might have to use seamless.
 
The diameter should be doable, even if it needs a little finessing. Die grinder might clean up any internal welding.

Locating the pipe would be tough and I'm thinking up solutions, maybe welding it onto a plate on one side that will locate it while I do whatever else in the mess that is the original bore. I think braze but not sure. Then cut it off when done.

I'm thinking out loud.

Will it be a super precise fix, no, but a LOT better then how it is now and should be durable to last for my hobby use

Brandon
 
I know the poster you're talking about but had missed that one. Very interesting idea, though overkill for the one pipe I might do haha

Brandon
 

I've taken stuff like that to the local machine shop and had it bored and sleeved back to size...helps if ths shop has a good center pin to measure
 
That would be my normal route but I am out of a job and trying not to be stupid with money.

And it ANNOYS me that I don't have access to a mill to do it myself. I want the practice.

Brandon
 

I was born and raised poor....my father would weld that up bead after bead and grind it out...he would likely weld-up the pin too!
 
I am actually pretty sure I'll flip the pin 180 (it doesn't float, held in place with a bolt) and weld it up

The axle I was thinking of brazing, mainly because it's cast. I thought about brazing without a pipe but getting a round and properly located hole would be REALLY hard since I can't drill it back out.

Brandon
 
I didn't see any 1-3/8" graphite rods at the link...

Last year, I begged some milling machine time from a friend and did this to my Oliver 550 adjustable front axle. I used two bushings end-to-end in the bore (1-1/2 OD x 1-3/8ID).

mvphoto58574.jpg


mvphoto58575.jpg
 
I've got a buddy with a mill but the axle is too heavy for both of us to lift up onto it in his home shop. He's the first I asked.

He referred me to another guy who would do it, and the price was reasonable but more then I really want to shell out at the moment. Can't blame the guy, gotta make money.

The site doesn't have rods of the right size but I know I can turn one down. But I think I've got a workable solution if I get the right size pipe. I hate this little bit of rig job but it will last longer then me, and still be 100% better then it was

Brandon
 
(quoted from post at 03:42:19 07/23/20) Is it cast iron or cast steel?

A good question.......Allis-Chalmers uses cast steel on a lot of parts for their tractors and equipment.
Welds easily.....even for a "so-so" welder like myself.
 
I have not done the spark test yet, I need to.

I've been trying to stay away from welding, even if it is cast steel because I'm afraid of #1 screwing it up, then #2, making it VERY hard with weld and nearly impossible to machine back out my Ooops

Brandon
 
(quoted from post at 09:39:15 07/17/20) I've got a buddy with a mill but the axle is too heavy for both of us to lift up onto it in his home shop. He's the first I asked.

Brandon

if your friend has a mill, can you get solid stock and take it out to the size you need instead of looking for a "correct" size pipe/tube? if its only 4 ish inches, stock wouldnt to be terribly bad, and hes your buddy, so a few beers...
 

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