Harbor Freight automatic compressor drain valve

dr sportster

Well-known Member
Do you think I should chance a H-F product for this / My compressor started to leak at the drain and I want to replace what I have . Other comparable brands ?
 
Is this the electric solenoid/timer type?

Or the float type?

I've never had any success with the float type. Maybe with very frequent cleaning, but even that...

The solenoid type, yes it might work. But the only ones I have found that gave long term reliable service are the Dayton brand in the white plastic case, but they are around $200!

There are a lot of the small cheap ones to choose from. It's luck of the draw if they will hold up. If it does not have a fine screen filter, (the bigger the better), it doesn't stand a chance.

You can add a Y strainer ahead of it. Using a 1/2" strainer will give more capacity. Install a ball valve ahead of it so it can be serviced without draining the tank pressure.
 
I just installed a 1/2" npt NC Asco solenoid valve.
Wired with an old fashion all metal mechanical water heater timer.
Both were what I had on hand.
No filters, piped to thru hole in wall to outside.
 
(quoted from post at 11:26:46 07/12/20) I just installed a 1/2" npt NC Asco solenoid valve.
Wired with an old fashion all metal mechanical water heater timer.
Both were what I had on hand.
No filters, piped to thru hole in wall to outside.

"Wired with an old fashion all metal mechanical water heater timer.


How long does goes the mechanical water heater timer keep the electric valve open when it "trips"?
 
In a plant I put three of the Norgren float type. One on a water exchanger, one on a refridgerant drier, and one off the main receiver. Never heard of any real trouble from them. But it was a humid area, and floats don't like to sit idle.
 
At work I let the valve from the bottom of the tank cracked enough to keep the water from building up in the bottom I have a tee coming out of the tank with a 1 1/2" pipe down with a 1/2" ball valve at the bottom I keep cracked open. I have a 1 1/2" manifold going up with four take offs. A little hiss all the time but nothing to maintain except to make sure someone closes the valves.
 
(quoted from post at 17:09:16 07/12/20)
(quoted from post at 12:21:47 07/12/20) Most mechanical timers have at least 15 minute minimum, that's a long time to have a drain valve open!

That was my point.

That is correct.
I always turn off the 220 compressor power when I am done for the day.
The drain timer is set for 3am every day.
I only run the compressor when I need it.
 
I just put a manual drain valve with a cable like is on a truck. $8 and a pull on the cable when I walk by
 
A contractor company installed three Tractor Supply air compressors inside part of our new water filtration plant at work. The compressors were equipped with tiny auto drain valves powered by 9V batteries. We wondered aloud how long those batteries would last and who was responsible to change them, but the auto valves all failed before the batteries could run down.

The engineer of the system had the three compressors cross-tied, but after the pressure regulator installed downstream of each tank. That way two sat there idle and one carried the load until pressure dropped far enough to draw from the second. Which ever compressor had a slightly lower setting would run 100% of the time until it burned up, often within a week of installation. We finally just piped in air from our plant header. $30M US just don't go far these days.
 
I have had one on my compressor for 6-7 years now. Works fine, clean and lube every couple years.

The one I have works off the air vent line. Spits when the compressor starts and again when it shuts off.
 

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