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glue removal

woodbutcher

woodbutcher

Well-known Member
I used Titebond III to glue and clamp some poplar boards together for a panel. The squeeze-out scraped off well, but I allowed a few spots of glue to dry on the face of
the panel, and deep-sanding does not seem to be getting it off. Is there a solvent that will remove it? I had planned to stain and seal the piece.

Butch
 

If it's a PVA based adhesive warm water with a little cloudy ammonia might help . Trouble is the water will raise the grain and the ammonia might lighten the timber.
 
It is a modified vinyl dispersion material (it is claiming to be waterproof, but not for continuous submersion) It does flow into wood pores, and resist being easy to sand off. I would make a new test of removal from scrap poplar of the same source. Put some similar spots of glue on the surface, and let it dry as long as the original panel. Things to attempt the cleaning might include Finger nail polish remover (acetone), Carb cleaner on a sponge, brake cleaner, both chlorinated and non-chlorinated, Steam (from a cloths steamer, or steam iron), Paint remover, both water based and oil based styles, and white vinegar. Poplar is a very open wood, and any one of these processes is likely to make the glue penetrate into the wood more than before, that might be OK if the wood now takes your finish well. Jim
 
Acetic acid (vinegar) will soften that glue. Get some concentrated, agricultural vinegar made for weed control. Keep applying it with a small brush. It may take half and hour or so. Another option is to buy glacial acetic acid from a photographic darkroom supply and mix your own. A 40% solution will soften old, hard glue. The fumes from GAA are terrible, as strong a ammonia, so handle it carefully.
 
....use your wife's hair dryer or a hot air gun.... should soften it enough to scrape it off with a scraper.
 
I use ACETONE on some spots. It does work. But you need to test a spot. Before you use it. Common nail polish remover.
 
You could have washed it off with a wet rag while the glue was still wet. Once dry it's in the grain of the wood and the only option is to plane the wood or sand it. A belt sander would work good for that.
 
Well, you COULD coat the entire face with glue...otherwise it will be obvious where the glue was when you try to stain it.
 
I've decided to leave the spots. I intended for the area that was stained to be the most visible part of the panel, but by turning it over I can hide the stain. The more I disturb it, the more noticeable it will be. When I'm done, it won't show from the road. Thanks for all the suggestions. By the way, this is going to be a headboard for my 13-year-old granddaughter in her new-to-her bedroom which she is decorating. She wants to help stain this thing, and it has to be just the right color. I would like to turn that work over to someone else. I've been told I don't have good color-sense.

Butch
 
There is more to it than getting the wood level. Glue which has penetrated the wood will seal the wood preventing the stain from penetrating. It's a stain that will make a white spot when the rest of the wood will stain nicely. Then if you try it to see what happens the stain will seal the wood where it will be more difficult to fix. The stain will gum up the sandpaper and will take a lot of extra sanding to fix. It will be a lot easier to thoroughly sand the wood first before you stain it. If you use coarse paper and dampen the wood between each sand it will make the sanding more effective. Wetting the wood will also help you see if the glue stain is still there. The rest of the wood will darken where there is no glue if there is a glue stain present.
 
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