2007 Chevy Silverado 1/2 Ton

John B.

Well-known Member
Ok my truck has a 5.0 V8 and the check engine light is on, so I took it to O'Reileys to scan the codes. It says "O2 Sensor Bank 1 sensor #2". My question is which side is Bank 1? Drivers side or passenger side?
 
The naming convention for oxygen sensors is as follows:

Bank 1 is the bank that has number 1 cylinder.

Bank 2 is whatever is left..

Sensor 1 is always the "upstream" sensor - the one before the catalytic converter.

Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor - after the catalytic converter.

So, bank 1 sensor 2 would be the sensor on the bank that has #1 cylinder, and sensor 2 would be after the catalytic converter.
 
Chevy full size has had left and right bank cats since 96 on V8s. Only 4.3 S10s got by with a single, 4.3 in a full size has two since about 99.
 
While we're on the subject of codes, I feel everyone who owns a'96 or later car or truck (most of us here), should own their own code scanner. Now I'm not talking about the mechanic-grade scanner, I'm suggesting at least one that can read and clear basic engine codes. Amazon has some very basic readers starting at $20. They won't do it all and they won't work on some cars, but the reason to read your own codes is that you can take your time reading the code, research it yourself and possibly even have a good diagnostic ability BEFORE the counter jockey at Autozone, O'Reilly's, or wherever tells you what he thinks your car needs or gives you the hard sell. These basic units usually allow you to clear a code, a big plus when working on clearing a code. Plus, the parts your local chain stores sell might be of questionable quality anyway.
 
I just picked up an OBDLink SX from ScanTool dot net. It runs on your PC/laptop, costs only $35; you get a cable with USB on one end, OBDII on the other and a software license. I've only used it for a few minutes to diagnose my '06 Dakota, cleared all but one of the 18 stored codes. Looks like quite a bit of functionality in the program.

Local auto parts will scan codes but not clear them; story I got was that someone had codes cleared at a store (different chain/brand), car later caught on fire, owner sued auto parts store (for doing what the customer requested). So now none of them will clear codes, have to pay licensed mechanic or dealer.
 
I've also got a wireless interface from BAFX. It gets the job done, but might be a little more detailed than what the average Joe would want to use.
 
Where do you find one of those "licensed mechanics?" As far as I know, there is no such thing as a mechanic's license.

Since I worked for half a lifetime as a professional mechanic, I held several licenses and certifications. I had a license to inspect cars in 2 states, a license to perform emission inspections, a license to service air conditioners, and ASE master auto and master heavy duty truck technician. I was also recognized by Ford Motor Company as a certified Ford technician in all fields of electronics, NVH, transmission repair, drivability, suspension, brakes, and major engine.

But, I have NEVER had a "mechanic's license." Nor have I ever been asked for one.

So, where do you get this "licensed mechanic" stuff from anyways??
 
My 04 V6 Ford Ranger has one on ea side of the engine, right in the cast manifold. If you have only one, for a V8 say, it would be downstream, in the pipe and would have to be a heated sensor. Ford, if I recall correctly, was the only one using a heated O2 (3 wire) sensor. Larry
 
well well, I did buy scanner and scanned the jeep . it said fuel volume regulator circuit open. P001 CODE. stopped at the dealer to buy the fuel regulator, they could not even find it in parts book. so I said get a mechanic up here as he should know where it is. then he comes in and I show him my code. he says you need to have it scanned with our scanner. those scanners are not accurate. I said how much is that? shop foreman comes in and says 80.00! I said for 10 minutes of work. he said our scanners cost a lot of money. I said at that rate it has been payed for many times. he just turned around and walked away. so I am still driving around with engine light still on and swearing at those idiots.
 
(quoted from post at 11:26:55 02/29/20) Probably should replace both 02 sensors

Nothing like "taking the vehicle on a trip through the Parts Department!

Just because the downstream O2 sensor is throwing a code for being "out of range" doesn't NECESSARILY mean the sensor itself is "bad".

The sensor MAY be doing it's job and reporting that the exhaust leaving the converter is not as "clean" as it's supposed to be, could be caused by a failing converter, engine misfire dumping raw gas into the exhaust stream, the engine MAY be burning oil, etc. etc..

Replacing the sensor MAY fix this for good (if the sensor is actually "bad"), or it may fix it for a period of time 'til the new sensor gets crudded up, or it may not fix it at all.

Point being is that the code isn't absolutely saying the sensor is "bad", it's saying the readings from the sensor aren't what the computer is expecting to see at the moment the code is "set".
 
There is a "shuck and jive" story if I ever heard one. All a scanner does is read the codes. I never heard of an issue of accuracy. How "accurate" does a scanner have to be to read what the PCM reports? They just wanted your $80.00!

Ever wonder why they call them stealerships?
 
From the Michigan Secretary of State site.
https://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,4670,7-127-1631_50302_50328---,00.html
ASE Information
Individuals who hold certification(s) issued by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) should be advised that ASE certification alone does not qualify you as a State certified mechanic in Michigan.
https://www.michigan.gov/statelicensesearch/0,4671,7-180-24786-76048--,00.html
Required State License(s):

The Michigan Department of State's Business Compliance and Regulation Division licenses and regulates Michigan's motor vehicle repair facilities and mechanics.

Section 4 of the Motor Vehicle Service and Repair Act (MCL 257.1304) requires repair facilities to employ persons properly certified for the type of repairs performed by the facility. Holders of valid mechanic trainee permits must work under the supervision of a properly certified mechanic.

Persons who must be certified include:

Those who diagnose or repair the operating condition of a motor vehicle;
Those who perform bench repairs on motor vehicle component parts within a business required to be registered; or
Those who estimate or repair unitized body structural component damage.
For more information visit our Web site www.michigan.gov/sos or call 1-888-SOS-MICH (888-767-6424).

Updated: 12/20/2019
 
Michigan and New York require mechanic licensing. Possibly other states, too. My state of Indiana does not.
 
Why is that a shuck and jive? Seeing as a P001 code does not exist, if that is what his plug in thingy said, it is wrong. That $80 has to pay for a lot of things, not just the scanner. Plus it also usually includes an hour of diag if needed. As a flat rate mechanic, sometimes you win, sometimes you loose on that hour. How much did that mechanic get paid for wasting time at the parts counter with a customer wanting free info? I wasn't bestowed with my knowledge at birth, I earned it, and deserve to be paid for it. Much like if I plug my $7K scanner in, I expect to get paid. If you want free scams, go let Autozone use their $20 dingus and print out a list of stuff it might be.
 
> While we're on the subject of codes, I feel everyone who owns a'96 or later car or truck (most of us here), should own their own code scanner.

I bought the OBDLink MX+ last year and I've been happy with it. It connects to your phone or laptop over Bluetooth, and you access it using either their free app or one of the several third-party apps that work with it. The price has actually gone up 40 bucks since I bought mine; it's now $120.

Since all the smarts are in the app, this scan tool shouldn't go obsolete for a long time; just update the app.
OBDLink MX
 
(quoted from post at 16:23:19 02/29/20) Why is that a shuck and jive? Seeing as a P001 code does not exist, if that is what his plug in thingy said, it is wrong. That $80 has to pay for a lot of things, not just the scanner. Plus it also usually includes an hour of diag if needed. As a flat rate mechanic, sometimes you win, sometimes you loose on that hour. How much did that mechanic get paid for wasting time at the parts counter with a customer wanting free info? I wasn't bestowed with my knowledge at birth, I earned it, and deserve to be paid for it. Much like if I plug my $7K scanner in, I expect to get paid. If you want free scams, go let Autozone use their $20 dingus and print out a list of stuff it might be.

"Seeing as a P001 code does not exist"

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Could we (just this one time) cut "rust" a little slack?

He apparently got the code description correct, just forgot ONE leading ZERO, P001 vs. P0001!

As a side note, do you REALLY think it's fair and reasonable that it takes a $7000+ scanner to ask a simple, badsic gasoline powered automobile "where it hurts"?

NUTZ!
 
In line with the comments Bob made, my 92 F150 has had a sticking O2 sensor for years. First time the check engine light came on, I had the sensor replaced. That fixed it for quite awhile, then it started happening again. It's very intermittent as to when it happens, but very reliable as to how it happens. Every time, it's about 5 minutes after I get to to highway speed after a cold start. Light comes on, stays on for about 5 or 6 minutes and goes off. I'm guessing that after the engine warms up enough the sensor becomes happy and stops crying.
 

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