6.5 turbo diesel

Keith-OR

Well-known Member
I have a question about an additive that is in the shop manual, shop manual say use the additive if the compression is low and or crankcase pressure is present. GM part #1050002.
It can't be combustible since it is going into each cylinder. Instructions is leave it in each cylinder for at least 24 hrs, and then crank engine over with glow plugs out and shop rag over glow plug holes. it will damage paint if it gets on fenders.

Has anyone ever heard of this additive.. I called local GM dealer and give the parts manager the parts # and he couldn't find it listed.
I did find a can of this additive on Ebay, and bought it. I even did a search on the internet can't find anything on it.
Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks Keith
 


GOOGLING "GM 1050002", MANY "hits" come up.

"GM Top Engine Cleaner part number 1050002, this product has been replaced with a new GM product number. The new product does not come in a metal can, and is twice the price because of a fancy plastic metering bottle."


"Part 88861803 Has Been Superseded to GM 19355198, ACDelco 10-3015
88861802 is interchangeable with 88861803 for the U.S. market;
97720646 was replaced with 88861802 on January 1, 2009 for the U.S. market;
01050002 was replaced with 88861802 on September 1, 2007 for the U.S. market;
12346535 was replaced with 88861802 on September 1, 2007 for the U.S. market;
01050728 was replaced with 01050002 on June 1, 1980 for the U.S. market."


Simply put, the latest part # is GM 19355198, @ some $40 a bottle.

I called a nearby dealer I have a parts account with, and the parts guy had no trouble crossing your number, and came up with the same number I found on the 'net, they stock it, and there's all sorts of ebay, Amazon, and other 'net sellers.

Sounds like your local GM guy is incontinent!;-)
 
Thanks for the info on new part #'s. I will give local GM parts guy the new #. I want to try it as, I have GMC 6.5 turbo that has both low compression and excessive crankcase pressure.
Manual says that it is a possibility that rings are stuck do to carbon build up.

Thanks
 
Top Engine Cleaner GM sells now is a waste
of time, it won't clean anything. You'd
get the same result using water. The old
number cleaner was banned thanks to
Kalicommiefornistan. It was good stuff.

If it is low on compression and has blow by, you have issues that liquid in a can won't fix. Unless the turbo has not been working for years and it rolls coal all the time, it's not going to be a carbon issue.
 
according to Chevron data sheet it is the same product that they supplied to GM in the 80's. GM's Shop manual recommends the use of top engine cleaner. Says that stuck rings could be the result of carbon build up, sure worth a try rather than a complete tear down, especially when there is not enough miles on this engine to justify these conditions. I'm only going to be out $40.00 and a little time, and vehicle hasn't been run in 4+ years.
The old saying "Nothing ventured Nothing gained"

Thanks:
Keith
 
I?ve used this product several times with good
results . If the old 6.5 has been sitting a long time
I?d run it and get hot change the oil and run it for
another oil change interval with this in the oil and it
will most likely fix the issue unless you?ve got more
problems than just dry cylinder walls and sticky
rings . I?ve used one type of gm additive that came
in a steel can and you put in the carburetor or
intake and would really help
Try this.
 
Trust me, I was a GM tech. The Top Engine cleaner they sell now IS NOT the same stuff they sold in the 80's. The old stuff was thicker, like a light weight oil, and had a Carmel color to it. The new stuff is thin and has a bluish green tinted the last time I used it. It won't loosen heavy carbon.
 
Sea Foam is popular and works well in keeping rings loose in 2 cycle outboard motors, especially loopers that have wedge shaped rings that expand every
cycle with the increased compression on the power stroke....my main use. I have used it to free up old engines that I thought were shot, espacially weed
eaters and chain saws. Says (on the can) it's for all engines including Diesel. Contains mineral oil for upper cylinder lube, naptha for loosening your stuck
rings and such, and alcohol to pickup small amounts of water in the fuel. Wally world carries it.

I use Power Services products for my diesels and have no ring sticking, or any other fuel issues. Why not sea foam? Because I don't. As I recall, diesel
engines weren't listed on the can of SF back then and I had a diesel tractor before I discovered SF for use in outboards . When I obtained my first diesel (a
tractor), I went looking for a diesel rated fuel additive just like I went looking for a diesel engine C rated oil.
 
(quoted from post at 05:05:09 02/19/20) Trust me, I was a GM tech. The Top Engine cleaner they sell now IS NOT the same stuff they sold in the 80's. The old stuff was thicker, like a light weight oil, and had a Carmel color to it. The new stuff is thin and has a bluish green tinted the last time I used it. It won't loosen heavy carbon.
I found can of old stuff on Ebay in medal can, ordered it, suppose to be here on the 24th. i will compare it to the new Top Cylinder additive, and post difference!!!
 
I use Sea Foam in just about all my small engines. Also put measured amount in my 4-wheeler. I even put small amount in all my chain saws, riding lawn mowers, wood splitter, wheeled weed eater, good stuff!!
 
I bought this truck with the 6.5 at an auction up near Arlen. It has been sitting over 4 years. I changed oil, new air filter, check fuel pump pressure, changed PMD, checked codes. Checked crank positioning censer, and replaced it, as showed indication of crank rubbing on it, also it did not have the 5 volt square wave when cranking engine. I did a compression check, low on all cylinders, and excessive crankcase pressure. Truck has less than 200K miles, just getting broke in.
Also has had a new injection pump put on at some time in the past. So $40.00 + spent on additive is worth a try.
If all fails, I have a truck sitting here with 6.5 turbo with only 113k miles on it, Same year. I'll just do an engine swap!!
 
So has it started for you or not, does it push fuel to a loosened injector line while cranking? I don?t know where
old is but I would go with his general cure for things like this, auto trans fluid. I would put some in a small pump
oil can and pull the glow plugs to give each hole a pump. Crank over a repeat 3 or 4 times. Then let it set a
couple days. Crank it again and put the glow plugs back in then give her a try. You can spray WD 40 or some
other penetrating oil in the intake while cranking, if it has enough compression it should pick up cranking speed
while doing this, it?s a less aggressive starting fluid for glow plug engines. It helps the starter crank faster while
bleeding the injection pump.
 
Well I guess ya don't know much about a diesel engines, they run on compression and precise fuel injection system, not spark ignition. So if you dump trany fluid in engine you have no way of controlling amount of fuel already in cylinders "tranny Fluid", and then ya have a run away. Ya either run out of tranny fluid in engine or put rod out thur side of block!!!
I'm not ready to trash this engine.

Keith
 
Also Shop manual is very explicit on NOT putting any type of oil in combustion cylinders!!! injector pump is working fine, it just does not have high enough compression, New injector pump.
By the way ask Old what he was told about putting tranny fluid in a diesel engine by a diesel mechanic on one of the other forums!!
Thanks
Keith
 

To clarify, is this engine running with lots of blowby, or refusing to start at all?
 
Yeppers, and compression is below 350lbs, couple of cylinders as low as 250 lbs. and high crankcase pressure. Manual says possibility having stuck rings do to carbon buildup.
 

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