frozen pipes

JimDRIl

Member
I understand heat tapes turn on when the temp drops Right? Anyhow, what I would like is something that would come on when temps drop down to below freezing. I don't live in the building so it's hard for me to manage this. Any ideas?
 
There are thermal cubes with multiple outlet slots that turn on at 33 degrees and off at 34 degrees. They can be purchased in multiple Amp capacity. Also a brand of pipe heater called Frostex that is able to be cut to any length, and warms only to 80 degrees, it is a composite thermal conductor that self regulates using only enough electricity to maintain temperature. It can be wrapped with insulation and that reduces current demand. There are two conductors that take 120 AC to the far end and a composite Plastic like material between them that does the resistance job. It also comes with a woven metal guard laced over the sheath. Great material to work with. Jim
 
The problem is the pipes start in the basement where it is warm, where the pipes go up is where it gets cold. I don't have any way to cut into the walls to correct the problem. What I'd like to do is heat the pipes in the basement warm enough so the heat would carry up the pipes enough to keep from freezing. Ideally I need heat tapes tied to the outside temp, maybe impossible, I hope not.
 
Look up internal heat tape for water lines. Basically a wire you put in the water line with a special fitting to get electric to the internal wire/tape.

I have one section of an old livestock water system that will freeze when we have sub zero weather for weeks. All of it is under concrete and one "newer" building. I put one of these internal tapes in 8 years ago and have never had an issue since.

https://heatline.com/retro-line
One brand I have used.
 
The cube illustrated is workable if positioned outside so as to find 32 degrees. But if no tape can be placed on the pipe now, that doesn't work. a heat lamp of 100 watts can be used to apply more heat to the pipe where it is exposed below. A shield would be needed to assure there would be no overheating of material where it is used. A timer could be used to turn on at dusk and off at 8:00 or so.
Leaving the water trickle the tiniest stream will also prevent freezing. If this works, it will allow time to wrap the pipe with insulation over Frostex. Jim
Thermo cube
 
It would appear you answered your own question when you asked it. Thermally activated heat tapes.
But I would think each and every vulnerability need be addressed in separate form.

Heat the building.
Drain the pipes.

is the suspect vulnerable pipe even acessable to protect

what are the variables?
at what temp below freezing?
for what periods of time?
is this an open air event?
Or the entire building?
is it insulated?
is it protected?

remove the water
 
As someone has mentioned in your other post, open the taps enough to keep a trickle of water moving at all times. The incoming water will be close to ground temperature, that will heat the pipes enough to keep them from freezing. Check the temperature of the water coming out of the taps to see how close it is to freezing and adjust the flow. If your drains can also freeze, you may need some extra flow to heat those too.
 
All the heat tapes I've seen come with a thermostat.
Don't twist the tape to pipe, put it on straight and either use electrical tape or zip ties to keep tape in contact with metal so heat is transferred to pipe or you could burn a hole in heat tape.
I used to live in a mobile home and a copper water line from ground to trailer. I would apply 2 heat tapes, one on each side so when one went bad, I would just have to plug in the other tape.

I would also wrap pipe with fiberglass insulation and cover it with plastic tape.

I'm so glad I no longer have to worry about frozen pipes or pipes exposed to the elements.
geo
 
Wow....there's a lot of good info here.....seems like you just need a non thermostatically controlled heat cable connected to an outdoor located "Thermo-Cube".
I had never before seen an internal cable like the one JD described.
Seems like that would be the very best solution to your problem but you would have to somehow override the attached thermostat and control it with the "Thermo-Cube".
 
I know you put a long post about your duties changing and you would be working (managing) more, glad to see you taking time to post. Hope the winter has not been too bad on your operation but I have also been watching your weather. Seems we have fared better here in central Tenn. Last three weeks just like fall weather 60s days and 45 nights.
 
Since the place isn't occupied,why not turn water off to building and drain lines from basement? Contrary to popular belief it isn't neccesry to "blow lines out"if there's pockets of air in lines.
As insurance,heat can be set come on when temperature inside bulding fall's below mid 30s. How to do that if hvac t-stat only go's to 55f? Use one of the cubes mentioned above to control low volt transformer power.
 
It's warmer than predicted at 7 degrees here right now
TodayPartly sunny, with a high near 18. Wind chill values as low as -18. Light and variable wind.
TonightMostly cloudy, with a low around 11. Calm wind.

and the water runs OK

just sayin
 
JD,
Wish we had something like that when dad had a dairy farm. It seemed like everything we had to do took more time because of the cold.
geo
 
Look this up and watch the videos. Handy gadget. Acts like a thermostat in reverse.
cvphoto3117.jpg
 
Heat tapes don't necessarily come on when the temp drops. Many/most of them come on when you plug them in.

Simple solution: Put a thermostatically controlled switch upstairs, extension cord to downstairs, plug in heat tapes.

However, I don't think the heat tapes will work for this. The heat won't carry up into the cold area.
 

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