clamp on current meter

55 50 Ron

Well-known Member
Recently bought a Ames Instruments AC/DC clamp meter model CM610A from Harbor Freight. Just getting used to using it. Anyone have experience and/or tips on use of it.

Thanks
 
Hey Ron, some people open the jaws then close/clamp over the wire in question LOL Sorryyyyy I had to kid you because believe it or not I had this dude ask me a similar question once who clamped over the two pair (Hot & Neutral) of 120 VAC wires and said the meter always showed ZERO AMPS...??.HMMMMMMMMM wonder why, how could that happen, musta had a bad cheap meter &^%$#@

Take care Ron

Hey its a electrical question, how many answers will you get, my joke don't count

John T
 
Between you and JMOR I got joked good. I'm well aware of the basic way of using the meter. It has many more functions than the clamp-for-currents. I haven't purchased a line splitter for AC. Thought about making my own. Main reason for buying the meter was for DC current uses with battery chargers, Jump Starts, etc. Works nicely with DC current so far.
 
(quoted from post at 16:28:51 11/12/19) Recently bought a Ames Instruments AC/DC clamp meter model CM610A from Harbor Freight. Just getting used to using it. Anyone have experience and/or tips on use of it.

Thanks

Hey Ron,

Something I have found helpful that I keep in my electrical tool bag, I made short extension cords and very carefully cut the very-outer layer of a 3" or 4" section to expose the individual conductors (not the bare copper), so that you can get the clamp around one individual conductor. I have 120vac and 220vac and include several twist lock receptacles (20 amp and 30amp). for plugging in various types of equipment.

As has been stated, you would include a single conductor within the confines of the amp clamp. Extra care must be taken not to cut the insulation from the hot(s) and neutral conductors. Alternatively, a cord could be made up with individual wires and zip-tied together to keep them tame.

Be safe,

George
 
5050
I carry my HF ammprobe under are rest of truck. A few times I found it's isn't accurate if left in the cold and you bring it inside house. Humidity screws it up.

I also carry in my truck a 2x4 metal box, short cord with wires seperated before they go to the metal box. Then wire up a GFCI inside the box. That way if there is any short to ground, GCFI trips. A little added safety doesn't hurt. Geo
 
If the amp draw expected is really low or you want accuracy, wind the conductor around the jaw a time or two and divide by the number of times it passes through the jaws.It should make a coil. I even had short lengths of wire pre-bent and would splice in the line for check heat anticipator readings for furnaces.
 
50 55 ron,

I may sound disparaging, however, you need to know the scale you intend to measure. John T is mighty knowledgeable. Listen to those type of folks. I am versed in the use of clamp-on ammeters. Please ensure your expected measurements.

Read the instructions, it may save you great grief. In his words, sorta, you may wish to consult a properly qualified professional.

Ask again,

D>
 
Is this an issue with the harbor freight meters in particular? My midtronics just say out of range and has been overloaded regularly
 

one of them you have to hit the "zero" when doing dc especially if smaller currents. might check that on yours. I cant remember which meter it was. Otherwise it will show a very very small current till it is zero-ed.... After the first time, it seems to zero out ok on its own. Handy as a pocket on a shirt... when checking problems.
 
Just had to have a little fun and tell the story of that dude who clamped over both wires and wondered why his junky meter kept reading zero lol

Take care Ron

John T
 
No offense meant, but I think I am a qualified professional. I have a 4 year university degree in electronics engineering.
 

"Anyone have experience"

Don't accidentally kick it off of the top step/top of the LH fuel tank of a big 'ol green Steiger.

BT,DT, but with a high-dollar DC clamp-on ammeter.

It didn't end well.
 
(quoted from post at 22:49:29 11/12/19) No offense meant, but I think I am a qualified professional. I have a 4 year university degree in electronics engineering.
ppreciated, but a degree & experience are definitely two different things. Both combined are nice.
 
I made one of these with separated conductors and plugs on each end, so I could measure plug in
items. Very handy to see if some plug in appliances are running, like plug in motor block heaters.
 
When using the DC to check charging, starting, etc. currents keep it well away from starters, generators, alternators and ignition coils. The magnetic fields they create confuse the readings.
 

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