Building steps

300jk

Well-known Member
So i have got a bunch of untreated lumber. Mostly because 2x6 and 2x8. I need to build 2 sets of steps for our house. Steps will be elevated off the concrete. I know i should be using treated, but if i use regular lumber with a transparent stain like Behrs how long will they last ? I would stain the lumber before building to make sure i covered the whole board. Just a thought.
 
As pitiful as treated lumber is now a days probably last almost as long. Hope you are planning on 2x10 or preferably 2x12 for the stringers.
 
Steps are pretty small. No wider than 5 foot. I think 2x8 would work with how i plan on building them. I havent bought or heard anything about treated lumber in quite a while. Is it really that bad ?
 
The only problem areas you will have is where moisture can get trapped. An example would be between boards, or where wood meets concrete. Treating them with sealer before construction should prevent rot for a good number of years.---------Loren
 
It's been awhile since I cut some stairs but I think that the code says that the run and the rise equals 17 and one half inch. So a 10 inch tread would have a 7.5 riser.
 
I don't have any problems with treated lumber in southern Minnesota. I don't have problems with ethanol in the gas either. LOL.
 
Thats kinda what i figured. I would use treated 4x4 for the base and build off that. I would also treat/stain the boards before building. I would also treat the cut ends. Thanks Loren!
 
Yeah i think thats close to code here too. This is more like a small landing than steps. Like a mini porch.
 
I havent needed treated lumber in so long i have no clue. Guess some of our bridge carpenters at work would no better. They're always working on crazy projects ! From one IUOE brother to another !
 
Stain will do very little to prevent rot in typical white pine lumber. Your lumber is probably not a rot-resistant species, and rot usually works its way in from the end grain. At the very least you need to seal the end grain with something better than stain.

Note that pressure-treated lumber is usually southern yellow pine, which is both more rot-resistant and stronger than white pine. Douglas fir would be better than white pine on both counts if you can get it, but then the cost would be about as much as pressure-treated.

IF your stairs will be protected from the weather by an overhang, and IF none of the lumber will be in contact with the ground, you might get acceptable life out of your non-treated lumber.

My recommendation is to save your untreated lumber for another project and get some pressure-treated lumber for the stairs. Preferably ground-contact rated. It's a matter of safety for you, your family and your guests (some of whom might be very litigious).
 
If you are determined to use your own wood I would treat with this after all cuts were made.
If you purchased treated lumber I would treat all the cuts with this stuff also.
If you purchased treated lumber suitable for house foundations than you might not need to treat the cuts as it has higher level of treatment. Like possibly 3X as much.

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/exterior-paint-stain/exterior-wood-stains/transparent-waterproofing-sealers/woodlife-reg-coppercoat-trade-green-wood-preservative-0-88-gal/1901a/p-1444452898274.htm
 
Depending on how wet it is there you might get two years out of common lumber. It would help if you would caulk the joints and paint it with an oil based enamel.
 

You can make your own rot preventative solution for timber , it's fairly easy and works well . It used to be available commercially here in Australia for many years but was removed for some aquatic environmental concern .

You need finely powered Copper Sulphate crystals , usually available from feed shops , take the amount you need and dissolve it with as much Cloudy Ammonia as it takes to keep it all in suspension . It stinks and is a severe respiratory irritant so be careful and wear a respirator . Add a little detergent to the solution to increase it's surface tension and make it easier to paint on .
Store in a plastic container and shake well before use , it stains wood a green blue and must be left to really dry out before painting over . It works very well on end grain and in mortise and halving joints . It will stain your skin badly so wear gloves . If the Copper Sulphate continues to crystalise in the plastic jar over time add more Cloudy Ammonia .
Don't use it near ponds or fish enclosures as it does make fish sick .
 

Some other details , you might need to pulverise the Copper Sulphate a little more to make it powder fine , it might take a very little heat to help dissolve , put the mixture in a container into a tub of hot water and stir . Don't use it near Galvanised or Zinc plated surfaces or screws as it will corrode them .
 
Thanks for remembering me, I've been retired for three years now, IUOE pension is great. I read your post about working nights, did that many times, never cared for it, pays the bills though.
 
As a friend of mine who is 1 week older than me said "I don't buy anything that lasts longer than 20 years anymore". That said, I would think if you reseal it every other year or so, it will last as long as you need it too. With the exception being where the wood meets the concrete. I would put some sort of barrier between the wood and concrete.
 
If it is an oil type stain it will help a lot but if a latex type stain it will only help make it rot. I cannot remember the type of oil one should rub on things like that but there is one and if you do it right they will last decades. As for how there build there and many way of doing them like the runners at the angle then having a 2x6 nailed to the insides for the steps to sit on and is you like short steps you set them so they sit on top of the step below
 
I made both my stairs out of treated stringers and used the new no rot decking material for treads two to each RISER. before putting on each tread I covered riser with rubber Tyvek taping. I made mine a smaller rise than normal lot easier to climb and carry items when in our golden years. yes this makes it longer with three more steps in my case but way worth it.I also rigged up elevator in the house inside for wheelchairs, heavy grocery loads etc.
 
I would use Flood CWF. It's a clear finish that really soaks in and seals out water as well helping prevent mold/rot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-5-gal-Clear-CWF-UV-Oil-Based-Exterior-Wood-Finish-FLD542-05/206265860
Available in 1 gal also.
 
As a friend of mine who is 1 week older than me said "I don't buy anything that lasts longer than 20 years anymore".

Tell your friend my treated deck didn't last 20 years.

I've made steps out of regular lumber. I painted mine with exterior paint. The paint trapped the water. Steps were junk in about 3 years.

Not really cost effective using untreadted lumber if you factor in the cost of paint.

My daddy said to do the job right the first time or don't do it at all.
 
Stairs are not a lot of fun to paint or stain with a brush because there are lots of tight narrow spots to cover on the treads and railings. Applying transparent stain to stairs every year will get old fast. Semi transparent stains last slightly longer, maybe two years at most. I've found solid stains for siding and decks and porch paints last the longest at three to four years.
 
> Stringers made from 2x8s will support your cat provided it is not a fat one.

Yes, but only before the carpenter ants go to town.
 
Should of added: I'd dip all the part ends and paint onto other surfaces before assembly. The end grain will need to absorb a lot of whatever you use to prevent rot.
 
Twenty five years ago, in Wisconsin, I built stairs to a second floor. Used green Cuprinol wood preservative, after the cutting was done, using old 24ft 3x14" untreated joists for stringers. It's still solid. Problem is I haven't seen Cuprinol in the stores for 15 years.
 
I have main back steps built 33 years ago using two 2x6 with 1/2" spacing for each step with 7" rise and 1"overhang. Landing by door is same 2x6 with spacing. Seems to need coating about every 2 yesrs. Has 6" treated fence posts under landing.
 
I think we have a slightly different idea on what I'm building and how its
gonna be built. This is a small landing with steps. Old ones were here
when i bought the place. They were not new then and that was 9 years ago.
Built with 2x6's. Held up fine as far as integrity.
 
(quoted from post at 13:05:46 09/15/19) I don't have any problems with treated lumber in southern Minnesota. I don't have problems with ethanol in the gas either. LOL.

Same here. I built a new porch on the front of our house about 10 years ago. Pressure treated lumber all the way. It is just as solid today as it was the day I finished it.
 
Unless you like wood working, I would use treated. Else........you'll be building another set sooner than you'd like. Save your untreated for something else.
 
Use your untreated lumber for an indoor project like a work bench, shop step stool. Use green treated lumber for your deck and/or stairs. And Behr stain I've had TERRIBLE service from. Wife and I painted/stained our BIG deck every year for 5 years with that crap. Last two years belt sanded all the boards down to bare bright wood and every spring when the frost came out of the ground the stain came up in sheets.
Got a recommendation of CABOT AUSTRAILIAN TIMBER OIL. Pick your favorite color, it's sticking to your deck for 7-10 years! It's not cheap, $44/gallon at Menards. But what's your time to repaint/restrain worth?
 

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