What worked for you

504

Well-known Member
I have a 1995 Chevy C2500 350 C.I. for the old guys, 5.7 for the rest. I have installed 4 or 5 fuel pumps in this thing. It is out again I think,I have not checked it yet(rain and cold) but it acts like a bad pump. O Relies has replaced all of the bad ones under warranty, but I am tired of of pulling the tank and crawling around under it. The last one is six months old. What brand have you had luck with?
 
I would go to chev and get a original equipment might cost more but better then pulling the tank half a dozen times
 
cant really help with why pump would fail yet when i replaced mine i cut a trap door in the bed to access pump it was a ford
 
I had fuel pump in tank trouble with 97 GMC and replaced them from Autozone and Advance Auto. The fourth time I took it to GMC dealer and haven't had any trouble in 6 years.
 
rock auto will give you the choice of whichever pump you want and be 30% of the price of anywhere else BUT something sounds fishy. there isn't a hidden fuel filter someplace in line that is making the pump, overwork? I find that a new fuel filter when i buy a vehicle with 100k+ is the best money ever spent!
 
Buy a Delco pump and your troubles will be over. I have had bad luck with after market electric fuel pumps.
 
(quoted from post at 21:34:56 12/02/18) I have a 1995 Chevy C2500 350 C.I. for the old guys, 5.7 for the rest. I have installed 4 or 5 fuel pumps in this thing. It is out again I think,I have not checked it yet(rain and cold) but it acts like a bad pump. O Relies has replaced all of the bad ones under warranty, but I am tired of of pulling the tank and crawling around under it. The last one is six months old. What brand have you had luck with?

Sadly, "DELCO" doesn't exist anymore as a US manufacturer.

GM spun it off as ""Delphi" in a union busting scheme which failed and went broke before GM did and the "genuine" parts we get now are not "Delco", or "GM" or even "American made", anymore.

Recently, I installed a genuine "AC DELCO" fuelpump in a friend's '97 'burb and it was "DOA", had to suck out the 15 gallons of petrol we'd put in the tank, drop the tank, and start over. So far, the second "AC Delco" unit is working as intended.
 
I replaced the pump in my '88 with an AC unit and had no problems until I got rid of the truck 50K later. But as others have said, the "AC" and "Delco" brands no longer reflect who actually built the part.
 
"Buy a Delco pump and your troubles will be over....."

Well, yes and no. Delco makes three lines of replacement parts.
1. OE replacement line. (Good to very good quality)
2. Professional line. (Use if you will have your car a few years or less)
3. Advantage line. (They sell this to compete with all the other junk aftermarket brands. Use this if you want to drive your car to the scrap yard)
 
I know a guy replace his pump many times. I was too busy to replace pump on a buick and I was concerned about getting defective pumps. So I had a reputable place do the work. He replaced pump with a OEM pump that lasted a week. No charge, he put in a NAPA pump and it lasted forever.

Not sure what pump he put in my old 95 GMC.

Sometimes it may be worth hiring someone to replace the pump. They can replace the defective pump 6 times instead of you.
 
I have a Chevrolet van with a 350 engine which I bought in 2009 and I've never had to replace the fuel pump. The only fuel pump problem I've had is with a 1991 Ford Contour. I have to replace one every year. Some masterful engineer made a 5" diameter hole in the floor above the tank to access the fuel pump which is 6" in diameter so you still have to pull the tank to replace. After the first couple of times doing that I cut the hole out bigger and fabricated a screw on metal plate to access the tank.
 
Have you replaced the sending unit and cleaned the ground connection on the frame? Usually, multiple fuel pump "failures" on TBI trucks are poor grounds, either at the frame or the ground wire is poor on the sending unit. Poor grounds can damage the pump by causing an excess current draw. Sounds backwards, but it is true. Also check the ground strap condition, they are on the frame and cab near where the heater hoses connect to the core.
 
Those in tank pumps a cooled by the fuel, if you want to run only 1/4 tank between trips to the gas station run it full to 3/4, not 1/4 to empty. Also if you have a few buddies it may be easier to pull 4-6 bolts, unplug one connector and lift the bed off the truck, that way you can get at the lines easier to check the return lines, grounds etc., and then test drive it around.
 
I keep my tanks more than half full. Never have a pump go out. They are cooled by gas. If you run the tank low the pump will overheat.
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:54 12/03/18) I keep my tanks more than half full. Never have a pump go out. They are cooled by gas. If you run the tank low the pump will overheat.

TomA I have changed countless in tank pumps over the years.
Always explained to customers how the fuel pump when submerged in fuel runs cooler and lasts longer told them to consider a 1/4 tank empty and rarely ever had one come back for warranty.
 
I used a a gm pump when mine went 15 or so years ago in 3500 with a 350, both my trucks have dump bodies so it's easy to access them.
cvphoto4625.jpg


cvphoto4626.jpg
 
Not sure if they're all that way, but on an 87 block I dealt with in a 1/2 ton 4x4 with throttle body injection, the boss for the
mechanical pump was still on the block but the hole wasn't drilled for the pushrod. Not sure if the cam had a fuel pump lobe or not
either.
 
Not sure what these trucks use for a filtering system, but anytime a fuel filter is not changed yearly the current draw starts creeping up. I've measured amps at a pump of over 5 amps, that's supposed to be down around 1, tremendous heat build up there and as stated below with running tanks low on fuel, it is a major cause of premature pump failure.
 
It could be a ground the frame needs a good sand blasting and I have never had the bolt off where it is grounded. It is a total plug and play wiring. I did not change the filter when I changed the pump,I bought one and it is in the tool box on the truck, just not connected to the truck. It is my daily driver,50 miles a day so the 36 gal tank is full every week. Just north of Hannibal MO. Party at my place, who can change it the fastest.!
The only good thing is, I have done it so often,in the street,in the gravel drive etc. Putting it in the garage, with heat and air tools should be easy.
 
Changed several pumps on my 97 Chev K2500.
Easiest for me, working alone, was to remove bolts on tank side of pickup box. Loosen ones on other side. Disconnect wires at back corner. Tilt box up and block it so you can work safely.
The pump is right there looking straight at you Clean the frame where the ground is connected. That seems to have contributed to the short life of a few pumps.
About an hour, start to finish. No need to drain the tank.
 

Yup had several Delphi pumps go out with end 3 to 6 mo WTF! I looked and found one rust spot in the bottom of the tank were the pump sets WTF that one rust spot can not be the problem so I got a mirror stuck it in the tank and looked at the underside of the tank
it had some rust the rust got the pumps... A new tank is most likely the fix....

I cut the tank in haft for show and tell any vehicle with a metal tank a new tank if needed goes on the estimate includes all new hardware including the filler neck... If they don't agree they can take it somewhere else I am not going to warranty pumps with a old rusty tank...

Any vehicle of that vintage I bet the tank has rust in it somewhere LOOK GOOD FOR RUST ANY RUST an electric pump can not survive in that environment... A mechanical pump can to some degree its not a mechanical diagram pump are a tractor either...

Dirt/rust gets 99% of'em and you need to clean a new tank :(....
 

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