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Grease

H

hanovertom

Member
Growing up, there was chassis grease, wheel bearing grease, hi temp wheel bearing grease
Now there is lithium, white lithium, red, red sticky etc.
What do you find is best? Is one ?universal?
Thanks
 
Depends on the operating temp of the parts being greased and if they need to be waterproof or not.
 
Been using marine grade (water proof)bearing grease for everything, trailer bearings, snow blower auger, tie rods, pitmans, idlers with no complaints.
 
This is what I use . I was using John Deere synthetic grease but got to hard to get local dealer refuses to stock it so I went with this I used it at the dairy I worked at it has 540 degree drop point and has anti seize in it . I found the real secret to grease is using it and use a high temp grease so you can use it in wheel bearings
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I have been using Shaffer's Black Moly (#274 I think) for years. It stays and lubricates better than anything else I could find. It isn't the cheapest but I think it is best.
 
Synthetic grease is good and has high and low temperature compatibility the only reason I quit using it is becuse I wanted something i could get any day of the week and at just about any store .
 
I would think a Moly grease would be the best all around, and a synthetic Moly would be even better.
 
Different grease is made for different applications. Moly based grease is good for like when you assemble a engine you can lubricate the parts until oil can be circulated through the engine. Then the moly grease dissolves into the oil so it is flushed out with the first oil change. Both lithium and white lithium grease is better in applications that you need the grease to cling better. The white is just more weather resistant. The red grease is better for heavier loads especially parts that slide against each other. It all ends up being elbow grease though.
 
I?ve liked it . It?s cheap and just about every store
sells it . I really like that it has anti seize in it that
stuff is slicker and stickier than snot on a door knob
 
I buy my grease from Rural King, $1 tube.
Look for wheel bearing grease in a tube, more expensive. Use it on dexter axles on my implement trailer and dump trailer.
If I pack a wheel bearing by hand, I use 30 year old wheel bearing grease I have sitting on shelf.
I use white grease on my hand tools.
 
A friend who ran an IH Implement Dealer repair shop for many years says use Lithium Grease, not Moly Grease. I don't recall the reasons. I just get a good JD Lithium Grease. Paul
 
Lubriplate 1200-2 heavy-duty white lithium grease. I used to have fast wear on frt wheel bearings, and high speed mower spindle bearings when I used Mystic JT-8 grease, a heavy-duty truck repair shop recommended Lubriplate and my bearing wear problems stopped over 30 years ago. It's not cheap, anything that's any good wouldn't be.
I've used Mobil 1 red synthetic grease on frt wheel bearings with good success too. It's available lots of places, the Lubriplate I have to buy at oil distributors.
 
It pays to do the metal to metal "bearing roller pressure test" on makes of grease as well as to oils. A few years ago I was testing grease this way and my brother in law brought me a $20 tube of special grease they buy at the mill where he is a mill wright. He was more than surprised when I ran the test as his grease failed long before the cheapest grease would fail that I buy from the local distributor of industrial supplies. The price of it being around $2 a tube at the time. Obviously some salesmen use some well lubricated speech LOL.
 
Heard of that happening a few times when the salesman hot shot product got beat buy a cheap store brand . If you grease on regular schedule you won?t have problems as long the grease is clean and high enough temperature rated for your application
 
There are different greases for different applications, as well as different metals. What's good for an inside application on bronze won't work in an application outside where it might get water on it. What's good for a high speed application like wheel bearings won't be good for a high pressure, low speed, sliding type situation.
The best thing to do is to find a reputable lube oil/grease rep and ask them what to use in any specific application. Having had customers over the years with all of the applications I just mentioned, and then some, and I can guarantee you using the right grease for the right application can make a definitive difference......I've seen the successes, and failures enough times to say that with 100% certainty.
 
I use to have 2 or 3 greases around the place finally just went to one good high temp grease some stuff has to be greased at a shorter interval but it?s worth to me where I don?t have to keep track of 3 different grease guns and stockmrhst many different products
 
I remember from years ago to not mix different grease types, as a chemical reaction could occur that would cause the grease to harden and thus ruin tie rod ends, U-joints, etc. I cant remember what the types were; one was soap base (I think) and the other???
 
You can do a little google searching and find a chart that shows what grease is compatible with what . The big problem is when you start mixing grease on machines with lube lines it gets really hard to pump through the lines .
 
Use only a Lithium Complex Grease. If the tube says just Lithium, it is of light duty with low melting point. Lithium Complex Grease is a Good all around grease. Use it for bearings. Use a Lithium Complex Grease with Moly for Slow moving High Load Applications. The Red Tacky stuff just has a tackifier to help it from dropping off. No moly in it. Grease is 80% oil with a soap as a thickener. There are other specialty greases that use aluminum, Clay and other thickeners but are not compatible with other Greases.
 
(quoted from post at 09:20:51 11/22/18) I buy my grease from Rural King, $1 tube.
Click to expand...

WOW! I ahven't seen any grease for sale anywhere near that price in several years. The cheap stuff I buy is usually at least $2.99 a tube, which is why I'm still filing my guns out of a 5 gallon bucket of grease I got at auction for $2.00! :lol:
 
Is that the nasty stuff my Brother-in-law refuses to use because he does not like to get it on his clean clothes He tries to borrow my stuff
 
The cheapest grease is better than no grease. I used to listen to friends of mine, tell me about the grease and frequency they greased their trucks, and then ask me if the front end popped when turning. I said no they seemed surprised when I told them no. I said they needed to grease the truck more often than just at oil changes. I greased mine every weekend like clock work. They also were amazed I greased it that often. I would bet if you jacked it up today and checked the spring pins for slop they would be pretty tight. I say pretty because it has 1,150,000 on it now. I have only needed to change 1 universal joint in that time. No s-cam bushings nor shafts on it yet.
 
This will get to personal preference quickly I'm sure but I have used Mobil-1 red synthetic on all of my equipment for about 20 years and have never been disappointed. I have a Cub Cadet 2518 with a 3-blade deck and now with close to 500 hours on it the bearings are still good. If you know anything about MTD equipment you know that they don't over-spend on things like high grade bearings. The front wheels use plain bearings and there's no play there at all.

The only parts I have ever replaced have "permanently lubricated" bearings so I feel like I am on to something.
 
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