Tappan Oven

We have a Tappan glass cooktop slide in stove oven combo.
100% electric.

The 4 burners work and the broil heating element works.
The oven heating element will not come on.

I'm hoping the element is just bad.
Is there a way to remove the element and check it?

If it test good where do I go from there?
 
if its a normal oven coil there should just be one small screw to remove where it plugs in to the oven
 
Normally have one or two screws holding the thin metal plate. Kill the power first! Seems to be the wire terminal burnt in back just as often as the element. I would slide it out and pull the back off first for a look see.
 
As stated.. One or two screws holds the element in place to the back of the oven.

Once removed. The element can be slide out enough to either unplug it or remove the screws securing the wires to the element.

If the element is not broken. Look closely for blistering (will look like spots of burned on grease). If found the element is bad.

If you move the stove out from the wall. Throw the breaker first!! Now days it is very easy to pull one out and have the thermal block (where the power cord connects) come in contact with the cover. Thus burning wires, tripping breaker and running a risk of shock. Run into this problem a lot at work when people pull stoves out clean behind them.
 
As everyone said "THROW THE BREAKER" before doing anything. Wire often burns off and is dangling just waiting for the range to be moved and POW!
 
Most oven elements are secured through the back plate with a couple of sheet metal screws. But there are also wire connections that must be disconnected from inside the back cover.

If the element is obviously damaged, good chance a new element will fix it. But there is also a possibility the relay could be bad.

A simple test, pull the oven out, disconnect the power, remove the rear cover. If everything looks good, no burned or broken wires, plug it back in, turn on the oven, check for 220v across the element terminals.

If power and no heat, the element is bad.

If no power, the relay, circuit board, or another connection is bad. Some times a new relay can be soldered onto the circuit board if the board is expensive or unavailable.

It can also be something unrelated, like a thermal sensor, or bad component on the board. Any codes flashing?
 
Thanks
Took out the 2 screws and the element just pulled out.
Pull spade wire connector off and whole thing came out easy as pie.
Checked with ohm meter and is showing no continuity.
Local appliance parts web site shows they have the part in stock for $15 so I am going to try a new heating element.
 
John 99% of them are just that simple to remove.

Now it is time to get the wife riled up..

Come back from the hardware, pull out a tape measure and act like you are measuring around the stove..

When she looks at you funny and ask, "What are you doing".. Tell her you bought a new stove...

And it burns wood..
 
Sounds like your problem is with the element.

However, I used to have an oven where the elements would quit working. Investigation turned up that the oven had created enough heat to desolder the relays that control the elemnents. A few minutes with the circuit board and a soldering iron and you were good to go. I never did figure out a good way to solve this problem (high temp solder, more air flow, heat shielding, etc.).

Cliff(VA) now (NC)
 
Waay back when I was a Kid, we had a Westinghouse stove. The oven quit. My dad figured it was the thermocouple (heat sensor) - had it confirmed after removing same. Got a new one. He then decided that the lead was too long so he cut it and soldered it back together - no worky. He didn't know that the lead was a tube (very small). Phoned the supplier and they told him - red face. The element had 2 copper lugs that screwed on and plugged into a receiver - easy fix. The stove was a 50's model and there is a place in Vancouver that still stocked them in 1985, $2 for the pair. I had the stove at that time.
 

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