Electric Motor Adapter Face Mount

I have a gearbox with a 56tc face mount for an electric motor with a 5/8th inch bore on the input shaft. I need to find an adapter so I can use a larger motor ( 2 hp ) with a 7/8th inch shaft.

I know 56tc and 145tc use the same bolt pattern but every 2 or 3 hp. motor has a 7/8th inch shaft. A 184 frame size to a 56 would also work.

Anyone ever seen an adapter like that? It would have to be two pieces, the spacer and the coupling or stub shaft.

Thank's
Beagle
 

Only a guess an my part, but I question if the gear box is built strong enough to take that large a motor, when it only has a 5/8" bore.
 
3/4" to 7/8" Shaft Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Sleeve Bushing & Keystock

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Gearbox rated to 4 1/2 horsepower according to the specs. It's on a sweep auger I made for a grain bin. The 1 1/2 horse motor
can't get the auger started with a full load on it.

Beagle
a282538.jpg

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I think I can install one of these pump mount adapters in there and use a jaw coupling-- 7/8th one side, 5/8th on a short keyed shaft on the other side. I would need to make a flange to match the otherside where it fits on the gearbox.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Pumps/Hydraulic-Pump-Mounts/Electric-Motor-to-Pump/SAE-AA-2-Bolt-To-56C-145TC-Electric-Motor-To-Pump-Mount-1-3247.axd

Would a 2 horse motor help me that much with the starting load, or should I bump it up to 3. The wiring can handle that.
The sweep works great once it gets started!

Any other ideas sure could help!!

Beagle.
 
The coupling and a spacer/adapter sounds like a good idea.

I made one with a piece of 4" square tubing as a spacer welded between 2 round plates. I cut a hand hole in one side of the square tube to reach in and align the couplers.

I would leave the plates oversize, turn them to final fit after welding.

But what am I seeing here? I see the concept as a sweep auger, but is it put in place once the bin is near empty? Or does it stay in all the time?

If it gets buried in grain the fan will get packed and will cause difficult starting no matter what size motor.
 
Steve, thanks for your reply. Yes, the auger stays in the bin. The motor is TEFC-totally enclosed fan cooled. Just throw a bag over it to keep corn and dust out of the fan. It's made to pivot 90 degrees so it doesn't interfere with the stirriator. When laid down, it's only 11 inches high. The corn easily falls away from the fan. I'm hoping stepping up to a 2 horse motor will get things turning.

I found a few things very similar to what you described. I believe we are thinking along the same lines as you see in the pictures.

Beagle
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I don't know anything about unloaders, but could the outer part be covered so starting could be easier? Maybe only cover the top so when the unit swings around the auger would move sideways into more of the material to be moved. With my lack of knowledge this could be a really dumb idea.
 
Or can you find a NEMA design ?C? motor? Has a lot better starting torque. No adapters required.
Most motors are design ?B?. They work great for pumps and fans, but not dor conveyors.
 
That is not a common requirement. I would plan on making your own adapter. Include some kind of cover to keep grain out of the new coupling area.

That looks like a common industrial gearbox. Have you checked into prices of a different gearbox with the new input shaft and motor mount?
 
You have a couple of options to work with. The easiest way may be to get a different gearbox with a slower gear ratio, start up would be easier and you might not notice much of a difference in the output of the auger. You would not need to have an adapter or the time it takes to cobble it together. Be tough if it failed in the bin, when you need it the most.
 
I have a different possible solution. In many grain unloading applications, there is a shield above the auger to limit the weight load on the auger. This should minimize the starting load and not impede the flow of the grain. However when experimenting if you don't get it right, the first time you will be faced with the same
problem, as you have now.
 
I will call an electrician I know tomorrow morning and ask him about the C-frame motor.

I am grateful for all these replies!

Many thanks

Beagle
 
Once again, I would like to thank all of you for the support and ideas you have offered. I'm down in Texas while our farm renter is in West Central Ia.

I've asked our farm renter to place a wood block under the drive wheel on the outside of the auger. Hopefully raising the drive up off the bin floor just might give enough freedom to get the auger moving. This is a Sukup auger and drive wheel assembly. I called Sukup to verify the auger speed and drive ratio before even ordering the components.

The motor is rated at 1.5 hp with thermal reset, the gearbox is an four to one with an auger speed of around 400 rpm.

A two hp. motor is available as well as a five to one ( 5-1 ) gearbox. A 5 to 1 will give around 350 rpm speed at the auger. That small difference should not be noticeable. We will try the auger shielding as well.

I learned years ago that there are few problems that cannot be overcome by standing back and throwing more money at them!

Beagle
 

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