cut-off saw blades

I have an inexpensive cut-off saw that takes a 14" blade. I'm cutting 3/16" and 1/4" angle iron and channel with it, but the blades that I
bought with it seem to be flexing a lot. At the hardware, I recently saw what appears to be thicker blades, and I saw a designation on one
that says "Type 1". I've got a one inch arbor. The salesman at the store didn't seem very knowledgeable about these blades, and was happy he
a least made sure I didn't get a masonry one - not much help beyond that. I would appreciate a little guidance here. Thanks.

Most of those cheap cut off saws don't have enough power to pull the thicker blades and work best with the thin ones designed for them. The thick ones are for industrial electrical driven units with 5 HP or more and gasoline powered portable saws. I would guess that your blade flex issue is actually an issue with the work piece moving or when making cuts at an angle you need to ease the blade into the work starting a groove, otherwise the angle will cause the blade to move sideways before it begins to cut resulting in what you describe.

I would agree. Thicker isn’t better when it comes to abrasive cut off wheels. Clamp the piece tight and square.

The thicker blade would be better but if you cut very much steel it would be a lot easier on you to use a metal cutting bandsaw.

Click the link.
Explanation of Various Types

I have a 14 inch dewalt cut-off. I use dewalt blades. Never noticed blade flexing. I don't force it, let it make sparks and take it slow. Only use cut-off on harden steel. I like using metal bandsaw. It too is slow but makes a very clean cut.

If you cut enough steel, it pays to buy one of these. Cuts cleaner, cooler, almost no sparks, and in about 1/4 the time.

The most common problem of blade flexing is actually due to operator error. You're in a hurry to get the parts cut so you try to force the blade through the steel. Remember, the blade is actually GRINDING the steel away to make the cut, it's not like a saw blade that cuts the steel away. Only apply enough downward pressure to allow the blade to do it's job.

(quoted from post at 10:51:33 10/12/18) The most common problem of blade flexing is actually due to operator error. You're in a hurry to get the parts cut so you try to force the blade through the steel. Remember, the blade is actually GRINDING the steel away to make the cut, it's not like a saw blade that cuts the steel away. Only apply enough downward pressure to allow the blade to do it's job.

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But not too slow or you will glaze the wheel.
Abrasive saws have a "sweet spot" as far as pressure applied to the work piece.

MK Morse Metal Devil

We sell one about every week, they are holding up very well.

OK - thanks all for the input. Sounds like cutting is what I'm looking for. Won't miss that dust.

I got rid of my chop saw due to it covering everything in the shop with black dust. I had one of those Evolution carbide saws for a while and got rid of it too as the cost per cut is real high no matter how careful you are when using it. Now I have a 7x 11 band saw and between that, a plasma cutter and a torch set I am satisfied,,, finally, LOL.

OK Butch (OH).....you mention cost per cut relative to carbide blade Evolution. In my situation, I get into a project maybe once a month that involves 30 or so cuts of smaller angle, channel, etc. Am I going to be going through 100 dollar blades with regularity? No production shop here, but I would appreciate cleaner more precise cuts without getting black lung that I think I'm getting now. I'm gathering that the cut quality is much better with the cold blade. Plasma cutter is a dream (......$$?).

(quoted from post at 22:38:38 10/13/18) OK Butch (OH).....you mention cost per cut relative to carbide blade Evolution. In my situation, I get into a project maybe once a month that involves 30 or so cuts of smaller angle, channel, etc. Am I going to be going through 100 dollar blades with regularity? No production shop here, but I would appreciate cleaner more precise cuts without getting black lung that I think I'm getting now. I'm gathering that the cut quality is much better with the cold blade. Plasma cutter is a dream (......$$?).

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My neighbor has one for his fab shop. I have one too though I obviously don't use mine near as much as he does. Blade longevity has been fine. Cut speed slows down slightly as the blade wears, but it's minimal. I've yet to change mine, though it's not quite been a year yet. He's had no problems either, except I think he said it broke some teeth cutting aluminum. It's not the best for real thin materials, or basically anything the teeth might grab. For example cable or chain is best cut with an abrasive wheel, so I still use my angle grinder for those. For clean, fast cuts through metal stock, it's by far the best option. Including a plasma cutter, which is really only good for plate.

MY experience with the Evolution saw was not good. Yes they cut clean and fast when the blade is in good shape. I bought mine maybe 10? years ago at their Farm Science Review booth when they first came out. I had a 16' landscape type trailer to build and it took 3 blades to get everything cut and I was VERY careful about how it got ran. My shop is part time too but over the period of a year and maybe 20 blades it figured out close to almost $.75 per cut on the average. It was fast and clean or it would have been shelved a lot sooner than it was. One of my helpers screwed a brand new blade up in a 1/2 hour on the 3-4th cut. At the time I bought the blades at Lowes because they were a dealer, close and cheapest source. Went to get a new blade once and everything Evolution was gone, saws, blades accessories everything. I asked the manger what was up and he said too many brought back for same problems I was having, Lowes ordered them pulled from the shelves. I gave mine away and the guy who got it later sarcastically said, thanks a LOT buddy! I do have a hand held 8" Milwaukee metal saw and I like it for certain uses. The blade runs much slower than the Evolution saws did and has reasonable life. All that being said I have no interest in a peeing match with the other poster, maybe they improved the saw or the blades or both? cant say but I have never been sorry for biting the bullet and upgrading to a medium grade 7x11 band saw. Good luck with whatever you try!

Millwaukee is the brand HD carries and buy them in Bi-metallic. I will never buy another saw blade (excluding radial saw blades) that isn't bi-metallic. I have 2 band saws, both with them and included varying tooth dimensions (like varies from 18-24 TPI) in the requirement and I have had them so long I forget just when I purchased them. Still cut like a dream.