Got my gateposts set

Stan in Oly, WA

Well-known Member
I want to thank everybody who offered advice about how I could make holes in my concrete slab to set gateposts. I did the first one, the one for the post that won't be supporting the gate, by drilling holes with a rotary hammer around the perimeter of the desired cutout, chiseling through the concrete between the holes, and then breaking up the concrete with a sledge hammer. That appeared to put a few cracks in the surrounding concrete, which was exactly what I was trying to avoid. Plus, it was way too much work for a worse result than I wanted.

I was so disappointed with what I got for my hard work that I decided to see if I could use a core drill for the other hole. I figured out that I could get a hole the size I needed by using the 6" core drill and overlapping two holes by 3-1/2". I would have to do this because I had decided to use 4X6 posts rather than 4X4's because that's what the rest of that run of fence has. I called the rental shop and asked if there would be any problem overlapping holes. I was told that I might damage the bit that way, and then I would have to pay for it. I went back to the rotary hammer method of drilling holes around the edges. I tried making a template that would guide the bit so that it wouldn't drift into the previous hole, but that didn't really work. When I was done with all my perimeter holes, I drilled a lot of larger holes in the piece of concrete to be removed, then took it apart with a masonry chisel and a hand sledge.

For those who recommended installing the posts by attaching brackets to the concrete---3000OH, JD Seller, Adirondack case guy, Billy NY---I want you to know that I considered doing it that way, but decided against it for what I felt to be good reasons. Adequately weatherproofing brackets I fabbed up myself was one concern, and the brackets having to be installed within a few inches of the edge of a slab of uncertain soundness was another. Thanks for taking the time to offer good advice, though.

I used to feel proud of myself for still being able to do projects like this at my age---which has been more than 65 for seven years now. I've gotten over that. Now I just worry about how much down time will be involved if I need any more rotator cuff surgeries or hip replacements.

Stan
 
There are times to hire out things like that, they will come in and be done in 30 minutes.

You can't take it with you Stan.
 
David G; It sounds so easy when you put it that way. Either you haven't attempted to hire work out lately, or you've got some exceptional circumstances that aren't available to me. I find the process of researching local contractors, scheduling bids, dealing with the issues that invariably arise during and after the bidding process (contractors who misrepresent the requirements of the job, contractors who are enthusiastic when they leave after inspecting for the bid but then seem to drop off the face of the earth), scheduling the job, etc. I'm usually delighted to be able to pay somebody to do work so I won't have to do it, but getting to that point is often so stressful and unpleasant that I always have to decide which disagreeable situation to choose. In case you think this is because I'm a difficult person or a difficult customer, I have good evidence that the opposite is the case. I've done this kind of work for hundreds of people, so I recognize that I fall into the category of customers who are the easiest to deal with. In other words, I'm reasonable, friendly, and agreeable, and I totally stay out of the way.

Stan
 
I agree, I'm in my mid-sixties and have learned to protect my body and health. Spending $100 or even $200 to hire someone else to do a tough job could be a drop in the bucket compared to a $10,000 to $50,000 surgery.
 
ss55; Part of the problem is that it isn't always that easy to predict what job will be tough. I looked at the job of cutting a couple of neat holes through a 4" concrete slab and didn't see that it was going to be much trouble. But it was only hard work, not the kind of work that causes injury. Well, not right away, anyway.

Stan
 

I am just a few weeks short of 70, and the way I see it is that physically demanding projects are part of what keeps me healthy. I drive a dump truck occasionally for some friends. When we do the occasional paving job I could sit in the truck, but I prefer to work along side their laborers who are all in their twenties. I have exercises that I do to maintain the muscles that support my spine and joints.
 
Dick L; The rental shop did have one of those. I asked if I could make overlapping holes with it. They told me that doing so might damage the bit and then I'd have to buy it---probably more than $200. Since a 4X6 post won't come close to fitting into a 6" diameter hole (I made a 6" diameter circle on paper and cut out a 3-3/8" X 5-1/2" rectangle from cardboard to see if it would fit---not even close), there was no point in renting it.

Stan
 
showcrop; You're wise to do that. A person can keep their body strong and healthy for a long time through activity, exercise, and common sense. Some motions in some activities are more likely to cause injury than to build strength. Those would be ones that common sense should lead you to avoid.

Stan
 
(quoted from post at 20:55:59 09/30/18) showcrop; You're wise to do that. A person can keep their body strong and healthy for a long time through activity, exercise, and common sense. Some motions in some activities are more likely to cause injury than to build strength. Those would be ones that common sense should lead you to avoid.

Stan

Stan, all of our doctors would advise us some form of the old adage, "move it or lose it"
 
The one the contractor used in my factory to put the door protector pipe drilled holes larger that six inches. That unit was much heaver built that the picture I posted at the link. They drilled a one inch hole in the cement to anchor the machine from turning while drilling the big hole. They used an auger on the back hoe to auger out the dirt and filled around the pipe as well as inside the pipe with cement.
 
I'm glad you got them in. Too bad about the collateral damage from sludge hammer. I questioned that post, but didn't want to start an argument.
Loren
 

I've more holes than I can remember in concrete. I would say hundreds for anchors as small as 1/4", dry core with hammer drill, and wet core bore with machine somewhat like the one shown, I don't remember how many or sizes, maybe as small as 4", up to maybe 10" I don't remember.

Dusty
 
When I wanted to put a wider door into a pole barn I tried your drill and bash method as well. The concrete was poured in 1974, so well hardened. Never did get it all out, too much collateral damage. Eventually we just set the pole right on the surface of the floor and tied it in with the purlins. The main reasoning was when we went to remove the original pole from what was becoming the center of the door, it was rotted off at just below the slab anyway. I figured the whole barn was sitting on rotted posts, why worry about one more? Your gate has different requirements, clearly. I hope to replace this old building in a year or two.
 
Adirondack case guy; I'm perfectly happy to not have an argument, but just out of curiosity, which post did you question? There were many.

Stan
 
Stan, great you were able to cut the post holes and get the posts set. Always interesting, your posts about small projects you are doing, a lot of great questions over the years !
 

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