Pulling well,what is this in the casing?

Jss1954

New User
Hi all. I am looking at replacing a submersible well pump but have run into snag. The well originally had, or has a pressure tank at the well. This was connected to a mobile home. There is now a pressure tank in the house I built several years ago. Can someone tell me what I am looking at inside the casing? I believe the casing is 7 inches.
24365.jpg
 
It seems to be a plate with 2 access slots on the outside edges. In the middle is a 1 1/4 inch threaded spot to (I believe) pull the well pump. I can see the casing thru the slotted holes.
 
if its not the top of the pump then it is a rubber spider which has been said is a torque plate that helps with vibration and twisting action on start up of the pump so the pipe does not break off
 
I've never heard of a pressure tank being inside the well casing. Doesn't mean it's never happened.....only saying I've never heard of that.

As mentioned by others, the photo is showing the torque plate. When the pump kicks on, that plate prevents the pump from spinning inside the casing, as well as keeping the pump centered so it does not hit the casing.
 
The upper well structure is usually an inch or maybe two larger than the actual casing. There appears to be quite a bit od scale
on the ID of both. if the question is why wount it come out, the scale might be the issue. If the stem pulled out, an extractor
can be put into the hole (tapered pipe threads with a tap like action) to put more force on it. It is close to the top, so
digging it up might be a reality. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 08:51:13 09/29/18) I've never heard of a pressure tank being inside the well casing. Doesn't mean it's never happened.....only saying I've never heard of that.

We had a neighbor that had the pressure at the well. The casing passes through the middle of the tank. Pressure switch was on top of the well casing.
It's been many years sense I've seen it, so could be wrong about some of it.

Dusty
 
I was told the torque plate also keeps the
pump wiring from chafing the insulation and
causing wire failure
 
It may be a pitless. If this is a torque plate then should it just pull up and out? There may be some bolts also at the top of this plate. I'm wondering if I should se if they would loosen. The problem with that is the plate is 8 ft down. I have read on the internet about bolts that have an odd head.
 
It looks like you need to get a length of pipe and screw it into the center of the plate and then you pull up on it to get it out of the well. Just hope that the threads aren't full of rust so the pipe will still screw in easily. There may be some more anti-torque rubbers below that you can't see and are sticking to the casing.
 
the access points are for your wiring are you trying to pull the pump? if so like you said screw 1-1/2 pipe into the top and make the other with a lift hook down below that is a triangle piece with a rubber seal that the pump is hanging on that piece probley centers the pump and should have some rubber on it
 
I may have found some info. It could be a Whitwater pitiless with the pressure tank around the casing. The diagrams I looked at show a fitting inside the casing which is hollow and has o rings on the top and bottom. Water comes up the center from the pump into this hollow and out to the house. The weight may be all that keeps the seals tight. I know when I wiggled the puller pipe I could see water leaking out the top. I'll set up some scaffolding and see what happens.
 
Maybe I missed something, but I don't think you have to dig down and remove the pitless just to pull the pump,
that's the whole idea of having the pitless adapter!
 
you don't need to dig anything just pull the pump up the pitless slides together that is the idea of it
 
That is how you install them, but I prefer to use a hole saw, much cleaner hole. Once they're installed then the inside piece slides out, you put a stick in it to hold it together while installing. I use the same piece of pipe to install them as I use to pull the pump, I flatten the top, drill a hole through it and put a ring in the hole. Then the ring can flop down and the cover will fit right over it, when I want to pull the pump I turn the ring up, put a bar through it and pry up. The pipe and ring stay in the well all the time.
 
There is a tool that you put in the top of the adapter to loosen it from the casing by turning it. Then you can just pull it up either by hand or with a loader , or other method. If it is steel water pipe probably need the loader. I have pulled mine with 100 feet of 1 inch plastic pipe.
 
Update on well pump installation. This was a spool type pitiless adapter for an in ground tank which was installed for a mobile home. I set up a scaffold around the well casing and used cable hoists to pull 80 feet of pipe. I installed a new pump with 200 psi plastic. Had some difficulty in getting the 2 o rings to seal using pipe dope as a lubricant. I tried silicone spray and that worked! Thanks to all with your ideas!
 

Interesting adapter, both of my wells use the side hung style pitiless adapter.
I've had to replace the pump on both of my wells in the last 2 years but I had the well drilling company come out and do the pulling.
One well is 420 ft deep and the other is 540 ft, that's a lot of weight to lift although both pumps are now hanging on 1 1/4" schedule 120 PVC pipe instead of iron.
 
(quoted from post at 07:50:38 11/03/18)
Interesting adapter, both of my wells use the side hung style pitiless adapter.
I've had to replace the pump on both of my wells in the last 2 years but I had the well drilling company come out and do the pulling.
One well is 420 ft deep and the other is 540 ft, that's a lot of weight to lift although both pumps are now hanging on 1 1/4" schedule 120 PVC pipe instead of iron.

Destroked, most well pumps around here are on poly pipe. The big factor is the static water level, because the neither the pump nor the pump weigh much while in the water. It is after they break the surface that the real pull starts.
 

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