Belsaw chainsaw sharpener revisited

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
Decided to read directions, everything is set correctly. After sharpening chain, I put on my
reading glasses and discovered why a round file is better than the belsaw.

If you look in the first pic, you will see the tooth sharpened by belsaw has a blunt edge, like a
circular saw tooth. The second pic, which didn't turn out that nice better in person, is after I
took the dremel tool with diamond burr, rotary file. The file removes material from under the
tooth, making it concave and a razor sharp edge.

The third pic is how I hold chain while using dremel.

The last pic is proof that a diamond burr or file makes chips not sawdust. I was cutting small
brush with the saw today. A good sharp chain is effortless work.

I will keep the belsaw. It good for getting the angles back and removing material to get a
chipped tooth back in shape. Only use belsaw after using the dremel about 6 times. Belsaw removes
more of the teeth too.
a216407.jpg

a216408.jpg

a216409.jpg

a216410.jpg
 
I can get chips like that wit h my Oregon one. I had always used a dremel also but no after the learning cure I use the Oregon one all the time. You have to dress the wheel on the Belsaw to get the proper tooth shape
 
Either the instructions are wrong or your missing something. When the sharpener is set correctly they will under cut the tooth just like a file does. Looking at your pictures of the machine it looks like your grinding head or chain holder is set wrong. It looks to be square with the chain. Either the grinding head or the chain holder need to be rocked so the grinding wheel comes into the tooth at an included angle. Your is coming it at just a straight angle. This is where you set it to set the drags not sharpen the tooth.

I still think it is setup wrong. Belsaw is a very reputable name in sharpening equipment. They would not have sold a sharpener that did not work. It could even be the dressed shape of the wheel. Smaller chains also take narrower wheels too. It looks like you sharpening a smaller chain so the wheel could be too wide. Also I have seen hand sharpened chains that where so severely under cut that they did not sharpen correctly.

Post us a model number an several pictures showing the grinder head position and an over all view.
 
It looks like you use a round tooth round grind chain by the photo. I use the next chain up from there and use square tooth round cut chain. There are three types of teeth. 1 is round tooth round grind teeth( used by the average home owner user). 2 is the square tooth round grind teeth ( used by guys that cut a lot of wood). 3 is the chain used by pros and large loggers in the north west and it is a square tooth square grind tooth which is the best cutting chain. It does take special tools ( square cut file) to sharpen then.
 
They are they same chain. My point is, the sharpener cuts off the front of the tooth making it blunt, square. No way can sharpener cut under the tooth like a file making it round. This chain is a round tooth chain. So that is why I won't use it. The file or diamond burr on dremel is my choice.
 

Sorry George but either the wheel isn't dressed correctly, the grinder is set wrong or you missed something in the set up. Properly set the grinder will undercut the tooth and give you a proper profile.

If the Dremel works for you, have at it and be happy.
 
Bret4207,
Not only does the dremel work best for me, it faster and chain will last longer, not removing the
front of teeth, just the under side. No wonder neighbor gave me this tool. Yes, it my fault. Always
easy to say something is wrong with person setting up the tool, instead of saying the tool isn't
designed for my chain. When neighbor passed, I'll let you know, then you can make me a a really big
offer. ha, ha, geo
 
Can you post a picture of your grinding wheel? That sharpener was one of the best made and I was like you as I would use the dremil over it also. I had the same problem as you with it grinding the tooth flat but not now. I was bull headed and thought mine was junk also but I will admit now I was wrong.
 
Let's say every one is right. Wrong wheel, wheel isn't dressed right, sharpener isn't set up right. How can this sharpener just cut the under side of tooth, giving a factory cut, rounded not a blunt cut?
 

George, I don't know which model you have, but there should be adjustments for top plate angle, depth of cut, undercut/rake or hook. Some had a reversible motor to avoid the burr you spoke of. At least some, if not all, the Foleys had a side to side slide adjustment too. An improper sized wheel for the chain or improperly shaped wheel can cause problems too. Did you ever get a manual for it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOLEY-BELSAW-308-Saw-Chain-Grinder-Operator-Part-Manual-0314-/290683774626?hash=item43ae1a66a2:g:3-MAAOxykVNRu3BJ
 
That sharpener should be coming down at a compound angle into and across the chainsaw tooth. The way you describe it cutting off the tooth bluntly I assume it is coming down at only one angle in the horizontal axis. It needs to be tilted in the vertical axis as well so it will undercut the tooth if I understand what you are saying correctly.

I have only used a cheap HF sharpener as a backup to the file, the cheap ones only allow changes in the horizontal axis and the vertical is fixed at guessing 15 degrees. The information on sharpening angles comes with the new chain.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top