Battery Draw Test (long post)

26cows

Member
This is how to do a draw test on a vehicle. Sorry its kind of long post. I hope this helps someone.
1) You need to build this. All these parts can be gotten at any parts store. I got all of then at Fleet Farm. I drilled and tap a hole the size of the battery bolt. You can us it on both type of batteries. Top and side post.
2) You need a digital meter. The one on the left is a $30.00 sears and on the right $400.00 fluke. Both meters will work.
3) Connect your test tool to the battery. It does not matter what side of the battery you connect to. Post or Neg will work the same.
4) Make sure the knob is tight. Start the vehicle and operate all the acc. windows, locks, lights, radio, hvac, seat switchs etc. Then turn the vehicle off and remove the key.
5) Connect the meter and set to 10 amp scale.
6) Open the tester and check the meter. If less than 1 amp tighten the tester and set the meter to mil amps. Open the tester and check the meter. The reading on the meter is the draw on the system. If above 50 mil amps you have draw that need repair. You start on the 10 amp scale so you don't blow the fuse in the meter.
7) The reading on the meter shows 299 mil amps. Start dia. Pull one fuse at a time. If the meter drops you found the circuit with the draw. If not install the fuse and go to the next one.
Found the under hood lamp on. Disable the lamp and the draw goes to 7 mil amps.
Note: If the vehicle is older you can start dia as soon as key off a meter connected. If vehicle has a Body control module you need to what 25 min. for the modules to power down before you start or you will miss dia.
I hope this helps some one. David
 
"a $30.00 sears and on the right $400.00 fluke. Both meters will work."

As will a $5.00 test light, which will also give a visual indication visible for some distance and you try disconnecting various load.
 
The problem with a test light is everyone takes a different amount of current to turn on the light...

Not sure how the pictures will look...
But a good way to check for the draw/drain on the system.. With the meter in the 10Amp position. I hook one lead of the meter up to the ground terminal on the battery, and ground the other lead.. (Aligator clips work great.)
Then disconnect the battery cable.. (Usually where it attaches to the frame, if easy to access.)
The goal is to not break the circuit.. This way you do not have to worry about repowering up controllers.. (I know of a few that take 10-15 mins to power down after cables are re-attached.. )

Deere's rule is anything over 100mA is a drain on the system..

I also like to start with the alternator.. (or any other monitor, radio that's been added to the machine, vehical.
 
Don't know why the pic do not load last night. Here they are. David
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