Welcome! Please use the navigational links on your left to explore our website.

Company Logo Shop Now
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts

Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Tractor Town
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs

Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
Ford 8N/9N Club
Today's Tractors
Garden Tractors
Kountry Life
Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Newbie welding questions

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author  [Modern View]
William Fissell

03-16-2013 18:57:44

Report to Moderator


I've been trying to learn basic SMAW using a Lincoln AC/DC buzz box and 3/32 6013 rod. I have some 3/16 mild steel to practiceon. I can lay a pretty smooth bead on the scrap.

When I try welding two things together, it all falls apart, so to speak. For example, I am trying to weld a mild steel patch on a cast still (iron) part, I bring both shiny bright, and then tack the patch down. I try to lay a bead and I get a lot of spatter and slag inclusions. I pretty Boucher spent all day welding, grinding the weld down, and welding again.

I started at about 75 amps DC - and blew a hole through the casting... Whoops! At lower setting I get a smoother bead, but still have trouble with inclusions and undercutting. E

I tried DC + and AC no noticeable change.

Suggestions about what I am doing wrong?

Thanks in advance!


[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]

03-17-2013 17:16:31

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to William Fissell, 03-16-2013 18:57:44  
If you're welding iron to mild steel the rod you want is the Sodel 35. Probably about 60 bucks per pound these days. If the part is not subject to serious heat you could also braze it. Welding could also be quite tricky if it's got some intricate shapes... It could easily crack while cooling.


[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

03-17-2013 09:22:27

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to William Fissell, 03-16-2013 18:57:44  
Go back to your practice peices and ues the 6011like the others say,but I would recommend 1/8" rod set around a hundred amps for 3/16" material

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

03-17-2013 08:06:19

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to William Fissell, 03-16-2013 18:57:44  
There are many variables to stick welding. Rod angle, travel speed, arc length, amperage and type of rods all affect the weld. Buy yourself a basic welding manual or check out some youtube videos. Good luck from an old Nuclear welder.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
William Fissell

03-17-2013 06:07:02

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to William Fissell, 03-16-2013 18:57:44  
Hi, All,

thanks for the great comments and help; I'll keep at learning.


[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Stick welding

03-17-2013 01:21:28

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to William Fissell, 03-16-2013 18:57:44  
You need to learn how to weld real basic stuff before you get into doing more specialized jobs like cast iron. You did good by getting a DC welder. Do even better and get rid of the 6013 rods! 7014 is a much better choice and welds about the same with a lot less problems. The best rods for you to practice with however are 6010/6011(very similar) for deepest penetration and welding dirty or rusty steel and doing downhand welds with decent strength. The other rod to get good at burning is 7018. Of the 4 basic types of rods it is the most versatile and strongest. It takes a little more practice but if you get it figured out, it IS the go to rod for anything you want to be as strong as possible. This of course does not apply to specialty type alloys that require specialty rods.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Tony S.

03-16-2013 21:35:45

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to William Fissell, 03-16-2013 18:57:44  
There are some pretty good cast rods. Expensive, though. Preheat the material, cool slowly. 6013 is a pretty useless rod for general purpose welding. 6010, 6011, 7018 much more versatile.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

03-16-2013 19:06:38

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to William Fissell, 03-16-2013 18:57:44  
The problem is the cast iron. To weld Cast, it's not as simple as grabbing a rod of 6013 and going to town. You need either Ni rod or cast iron rod (Stainless would work too), but those options are expensive so not always practical. Cast iron also needs a pre-heat to bring it up to about 400, and then at the very least a slow cool by wrapping it in a welding blanket or burying it in warm sand (a post-heat step would be better). Cast can and will crack if not welded properly.

If welding a crack, it's also a good idea to drill out the end of the crack so it won't keep spreading.

Many others on here can give more advise.
The basics are, you can't weld cast iron with 6013. 7018 has given some people better results, but your milage may vary.

Donovan from Wisconsin

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
William Fissell

03-16-2013 19:11:06

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to Don-Wi, 03-16-2013 19:06:38  
Thanks, I had thought the problem was later stress relief and cracking, which shouldn't be a real problem for my particular part. Is the substrate metal also causing the crummy weld quality?

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

03-16-2013 19:43:16

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to William Fissell, 03-16-2013 19:11:06  
It depends on the cast. Some of its good and some isn't. Exhaust manifolds are always a bear to do....full of impurities and brittle.
Like was said, nickel is best for cast but spendy.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
William Fissell

03-16-2013 20:10:42

Report to Moderator
 Re: Newbie welding questions in reply to IrvIA, 03-16-2013 19:43:16  
The repair part is a cast cap for a Dearborn 10-80 plow bearing box. I'll probably pay someone (TOH) to turn a replacement,but thought I'd fool around trying to patch it first.

On a grinder the sparks are short, orange, and burst into little sparks about 12-14 inches from the grinder, so I assume its cast iron.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:

Fast Shipping!  Most of our stocked parts ship within 24 hours (M-Th). Expedited shipping available, just call! Most prices for parts and manuals are below our competitors. Compare our super low shipping rates! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor. We are a company you can trust and have generous return policies. Shop Online Today or call our friendly sales staff toll free (800) 853-2651. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums

Copyright © 1997-2018 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy