another 'how would you fix it?

jon f mn · Jan 10, 2013

How about another "how would you fix it"? I took my truck to my mechanic for a new turbo and he showed me this project and agreed to a swap, I fix the hoist and he fixed my turbo. I've done a quite a few of these over the years, seems few hoist owners are also grease gun owners. lol. In this case whoever installed the hoist didn't even put in the zerks. I wonder how much torque it takes to twist off an 1 3/4" shaft like that but it's a lot. So, like last time, tell me how you would handle this and after I'll post pics of the project and why I did what I did.

IaGary · Jan 10, 2013

How old is the truck? What is hauled on it?

If that end looks like that what does the other end look like?

If the steel is pitted as deep as it looks I would consider a whole new hoist.

If it is just a bad hinge point. Cut the bushings out of the plates and put in a new bushings and pin.

jon f mn · Jan 10, 2013

It's not pitted bad, just rust covered. The other pivots are free, but tight. Nothing has been greased since new. The other pivots will be ok once greased. It's on a tree truck with a boom and short covered box.

Jeff NWOH · Jan 10, 2013

Probably the easiest way would be to just cut the tube out of the center section and replace. Should be no problem to blow the shaft out of the 2 outer sections, slide a new shaft in and weld in place.

That said, I did one of these a few years back. I was determined to get the shaft out. Only one side had broke so obviously it could still turn in that tube. Ended up blowing as much of the shaft out as I could get with the torch from each end. Then went to town with a rosebud and the sledgehammer. It would have been easier to just replace the tube.

big jt · Jan 10, 2013

Can't quite tell from the pix but looks like like there is a shaft stuck tight in a tube couple feet long.

First thing I would try would be to loosen and remove the shaft. That said I wouldn't spend much time with that method. The heat required wouldn't be good for things.

The way I would wind up fixing this is to torch off everthing down to the arms the tubes are attached to. Replace those with Drawn Over Mandrel, new shaft and there you go. Maybe even put in some zerks.

jt

Ivan in Mich · Jan 11, 2013

I sure hope you have that box blocked up before working on it. I once saw what happens if you don't and it was not nice

JOB · Jan 11, 2013

I bought a truck just for the hoist, every zerk on the hoist would take grease except for the two on the shaft that broke on the truck pictured. I was able to remove one zerk so far, but if I can't get the other zerk out and new ones in and the pin taking grease, I will have to do what you are going to do.
On mine the tube is welded in real good and the pin is welded in just as good. I feel the pin (round stock) could have been pined like the ones on the end of a hydraulic cylinder.
On mine I am hoping I can just cut the pin ends off, grind it smooth and drive the pin out. On yours as another fellow said it might be easier to replace both pin and tube.
Are these pins and tubes machined to fit or is it just a piece of round stock inside of a pipe?

JMS/.MN · Jan 11, 2013

I'd use about a quarter pound of C4, one cap, short fuse, and about 300 feet of distance. Seriously, on jobs like that, often best to torch out all of the offenders and start from scratch. Obviously the hyd pump works well!

jackinok · Jan 11, 2013

at the very least it looks like youve got some serious heat and beat time. i think thats what i would try first,a lot of heat and maybe try to get some parrafin to draw through it. probably faster to just cut it out,if you could keep the new straight while you tacked it in. back when i worked as a mechanic at the stock yards we had a bunch of old worn out dump trucks we used to clean pens with. that old manure didnt want to slide out so good so guys would get them going good in reverse and slam on the brakes thats the only thing ive seen break one of those pins. old beds were worn out all over so they sort of flopped back and then forward.

big jt · Jan 11, 2013

Good suggestion Ivan. If you look you will see some props holding the box up.

The Loadstar I own came from a family that the father was killed by one of two trucks coming down on him and crushing. When that happened the Mom told her two sons that the straight trucks had to GO! Traded my IH and a Ford in on a Semi.

Don't blame the family for trading to a Semi. We got a pretty nice Loadstar. And of course had the due respect for the dangers of tilt bed trucks.

jm2cw

jt

JOB · Jan 11, 2013

I was out to a friends farm one day and the man of the farm was gone. He had a straight job parked with the hoist up and there were kids 12 years old and younger playing on and around it. I suggested lowering the hoist so the kids could not lower it accidentally on one of the kids. This hoist did not have the props from the bed rails to the frame. I lowered it and when the father of the kids came home he was upset because he had it raised so the sun could dry out the bed. I think he would have been a little more upset if the bed was lowered on one of the kids.

jon f mn · Jan 11, 2013

I think it's just a tube, rather than pipe, so no inner weld showing. I doubt they would bother to machine that. I can't say that I know one way or the other tho.

another 'how would you fix it?

jon f mn

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IaGary

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jon f mn

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Jeff NWOH

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big jt

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Ivan in Mich

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JOB

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JMS/.MN

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jackinok

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big jt

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JOB

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jon f mn

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