How to remove this log splitter seal????

ShowMEguy

Member
I have a seal that started to leak on me last fall and here it is coming on fall again. I figured I need to try to get this fixed for splitting firewood.
Is the bronze/brass lookin piece supposed to thread out?
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This also started leak last year anyone know where I can get a replacement?

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The little pin there or something allows you to just push it back on the reverse stroke and it kicks the handle back once it completes it cycle up.
 
The brass/bronze piece does appear to thread out. That said what I don't understand is why that piece appears to be so much smaller than the actual body diameter of the cylinder. All I can think of is that the rod seals are behind that piece, and since the end of the rod appears to have nothing attached to it, removing and replacing the seals by removing just that piece shouldn't be a real problem. Unfortunately it looks like someone has already beat the holes up with a punch, something really common I should add, so you'll be forced to do the same vs using a spanner wrench on it like it was designed for.
Good luck, and post some more pics of what you find when you get it apart.
 
Yes the center piece threads out. The two holes across from each other are for a spanner wrench. Yours have been beat on with a punch. They look pretty rounded out. I would get a adjustable spanner wrench. (I posted a picture of one) Then drill two new holes 90 degrees from the ones already there. Then get some help. One of you can use the spanner wrench in the new holes and the other can jar the insert with a punch in the old holes. While you have it apart polish up the cylinder rod. It is not bad but it needs to be smoother.

As for the dented return leaking. You can buy just the return plunger/dented from just about any supplier that sells hydraulic valves. Your old one may come apart so you can fix it. Just remove the whole thing from the valve. The look down in the back side of it. Some times the spring retainer will screw out. Then polish the pin before knocking it out. Then there is an oring around the pin.

If you fix it or replace it. You need to keep the pin and cylinder rod clean/smooth.
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(quoted from post at 17:32:23 09/15/12) Shaft is pitted so I doubt a seal will help.
The part that is pitted never makes it into the cylinder. What you see is full return into the cylinder. The rod is in great shape other than that...
 
(quoted from post at 20:59:40 09/15/12) Yes the center piece threads out. The two holes across from each other are for a spanner wrench. Yours have been beat on with a punch. They look pretty rounded out. I would get a adjustable spanner wrench. (I posted a picture of one) Then drill two new holes 90 degrees from the ones already there. Then get some help. One of you can use the spanner wrench in the new holes and the other can jar the insert with a punch in the old holes. While you have it apart polish up the cylinder rod. It is not bad but it needs to be smoother.

As for the dented return leaking. You can buy just the return plunger/dented from just about any supplier that sells hydraulic valves. Your old one may come apart so you can fix it. Just remove the whole thing from the valve. The look down in the back side of it. Some times the spring retainer will screw out. Then polish the pin before knocking it out. Then there is an oring around the pin.

If you fix it or replace it. You need to keep the pin and cylinder rod clean/smooth.
a82519.jpg

I will try to see if I can find a spanner wrench like you have a pic here of. Then re-drill a couple new holes and go from there. Thanks all.
 
Yes, there is supposed to be a little pin in there to kick the lever into neutral. I've only had experience with one of them and it did not last long, that's probably why your pin isn't there. It was OK if I was splitting long logs and had to retract the cylinder all the way, but if the logs were short, retracting the cylinder all the way was a waste if time. Jim
 

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