DIY Splitting stand(s) plan?

Does anybody have a plan for a splitting stand? I need to make one so that I can split a 1961 Massey Ferguson 35 Deluxe... I tried searching for it, but I got a TON of links about splitting firewood and only a couple about splitting a tractor... and I only saw one or two about a splitting stand, but none about actual plans for building a splitting stand/contraption... I have no idea about splitting a tractor, so explain it to me like I'm 5...

My local tractor repair shop wants $75/hour without a min/max estimate... I refuse to give them my tractor along with a blank check...

I'm going to need my tractor soon... The grass is green, the daffodils are blooming and I even saw a Robin this weekend... The geese look like a blanket flying up the river this morning... I guess winter is over down here in Alabama...
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Ain't much to it. Just find some scrap that looks like it wants be a splitting stand!!

This was for a rear main seal.

Maybe get a service manual for the tractor. Most have pictures (I
like pictures, but only read playboy for the articles) that should
help you. or your AGCO dealer might let you see his stands or
book.

So... To see if I've got this straight... Looks like anything (with wheels) can be used as a splitting stand... Also, it looks like the FRONT of the tractor is the part that is pulled away from the REAR of the tractor... I'll have to check my tractor to see if there is someplace I can bolt a stand to it... I've got 'leaky' front tires... I suppose I'll need to fix that in order to maintain alignment...
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P.S. Thanks.

If you have a concrete floor, and if you can suspend the front half from the ceiling, with a sling underneath and a pulley or come-along to adjust height, you don't really need a splitting stand on something as light as a 35. But if you can't suspend it from above, then you need a stand, because the front suspension is on a "bolster"- that is, a shaft and bearing that runs longitudinally (front to back), and if you just support the front half from underneath, it will want to flop over sideways as soon as you unbolt it from the back.

If you can suspend the front half from above, then support the back half with a husky floor jack just too the rear of the splitting point; loosen the bolts, adjust the front and back so the gap between the housings is equal (that is, the front and back are level with each other). When you get it unbolted, roll the back half backwards on the floor jack.

When I split our TO-30, I used floor trolley jack under the engine and a couple of jack stands with some channel iron under the tranny.

I have about the same thing as Kevin.

Yours looks a bit more polished!!!!

I've split a few like this. Jack stands, jacks, and blocks. If you drive wedges in between the front axle and frame to keep the engine from tilting, it works pretty well. Rolling floor jack under the engine. Just take your time and make sure everything is well supported and stable. Don't let the jacks support it while working on it.

I suppose if I ever have to do a narrow front, I'll have to build a stand.

Maybe check semi truck and construction truck equipment-- what you"ll look for is a transmission floor jack rated about 4 tons. The wheels are bigger and the upper support is a square frame instead of a single cup, has a double x/scissors lift instead of a single lift set. Main purpose is to remove and replace large transmissions, transfer cases and whatevers from under Semitractors and large trucks. Rental is by the day or week from industrial supply outfits, some rental places and is used as dolly for some large appliance installation- slide heater off truck onto support frame, strap down and wheel it to site of installation through doors too small for mini endloader. A motorcycle lift for large cycles is similar but lighter load rated about 1 or 2 tons- my smaller model is 1000 pounds for Goldwing and holds it steady. Can"t remenber brand that the landscape outfit used for next model Ford from 8N but they had it split and wheel front half across shop floor and could raise and lower a bit,tilt- aquaintance mechanic said they used it originally for tranny replacing and it was handy for tractor, etc. The top support has side holes for straps, braces to be bolted and is stable. RN

I use a chain falls on the engine and a floor jack under the transmission. Block the front axle. Little tractor no problem!

I prefer to roll the back & leave the front sit. My front stand has a leveling jack from a set of scaffolding on each side on the front with an adjustable brace (with large setscrews to lock them) to near the front of the tractor on each side. The easiest to make rear one is one that has one caster in the center & pivots on a bracket bolted to the front of the transmission with a 3/4" by 8" setscrew to adjust the height.
John

google "Cofer Mfg, Dodge City, KS."

(quoted from post at 11:36:32 02/06/12)
Yours looks a bit more polished!!!!

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Nothing says classy like a primer paint job. :lol:

(quoted from post at 22:03:27 02/06/12) I prefer to roll the back & leave the front sit. My front stand has a leveling jack from a set of scaffolding on each side on the front with an adjustable brace (with large setscrews to lock them) to near the front of the tractor on each side. The easiest to make rear one is one that has one caster in the center & pivots on a bracket bolted to the front of the transmission with a 3/4" by 8" setscrew to adjust the height.
John

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Yes, it is a whole lot easier to have the front half stationary and roll the rear half away from it. Pushing against the LARGER rear tires gives much more leverage.

But doesn't rotating the rear tires change the alignment of the splines on the input shaft? Or is that a 'non issue'?
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This is how I did my Minnie- the frame doesn't attach to the block in the rear, so the engine is left hanging while the frame is rolled away. I lifted the engine off with a forklift. The stand is for the front half of an IH M, 560, etc and could be built easily.

(quoted from post at 08:22:11 02/07/12) But doesn't rotating the rear tires change the alignment of the splines on the input shaft? Or is that a 'non issue'?
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Click to expand...

Not if the transmission is in neutral.