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Best way to remove broken exhaust manifold stud on Chevy 454

B

Big 86

Member
Had to remove the exhaust pipe on my Chevy truck due to leaking manifold flange gasket, and two of the studs twisted off. Not really surprised, exhaust is probably 10 yrs old and winter weather in the Midwest is not kind to exposed threads.

Okay, what is the best way to get the old studs out of the manifold?? I have a torch set, and did try heating the manifold around the studs, without any progress. Should I try more heat? Or is it just time to take the manifold to the machine shop and let them do it? Figured I would ask the experts here before I got in too deep, really don't want to break off the studs or ruin the manifold. Your thoughts and advice would be appreciated.
 
try soaking them in penetrating oil and repeated heating. if there is some stud sticking out, you can stick weld or mig weld a nut to them and try and pull them that way. last resort is drill the stud out and re-tap. on the later big block chevys, they had a problem with exhaust manifolds cracking due to the high heat from the cat converters. the manifold studs to the cylinder head break off, and you wind up pulling the head to get them out. i have a big block suburban with a cracked manifold, and i am dreading putting a wrench on the bolts.
 
You say you have a "torch set". Torches can vaporize broken studs. And the problem IS????????????????????
 
You'll never get the cylinder head hot enough to release the studs. You have to heat the studs themselves.

Assuming you have enough of the stud protruding to grab with a Vise Grip, heat the stud until it's cherry red. Then, while it's still hot, grab with your Vise Grip and it will come right out.
 
Big 86 Just did a 350 chevy, all six broke off. Heated the exhaust manifold around the studs and they came right out.
 
I don"t heat the stud, I heat the cast, until the studs are red. Can get much more heat to the problem. Latent heat in the cast is more effective. Then I apply candle wax as it cools. Let it set for awhile to let the wax get into the threads.
 
I always was told to heat the area around the stud,not the stud itself.Heating the area allows it to expand more than the stud, breaking the bond,making removal easier.Bill M.
 
Hello bill mart,
We must have gone to the same school, that is how I do it, if the stud is flush.
Guido.
 
I agree 100%, sportster. A stud that is heated red hot to expand it as much as possible in the hole makes it elongate, so when it cools to ambient it shrinks away from the surrounding casting for easy removal..

There is NO quicker way to break off what's left to grab than by trying to remove it HOT.

However, as I wrote before, it's quicker to just vaporize 'em with the smoke wrench.
 
Best example I remember is a WD Allis head- twisted off the first stud, waxed the others....aren"t they all rusted in the same? All waxed came out easily. Welded a nut on the first, waxed it, turned right out. I tease people...if they are Catholic...use a blessed candle. Besides, what is there to lose. No, I don"t aim heat at the stud- they turn red too fast, I like the latent heat to work over time. If the stud resists, I wait til tomorrow- never failed yet!
 
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