7014 Break test.

Puddles · Jun 28, 2011

1/8-inch 7014, took 10-blows from a 4-pound hammer to break the plates, the weld really snapped.

trucker 40 · Jun 28, 2011

Good looking weld!How did breaking this compare to breaking 6013?

Lanse · Jun 28, 2011

Dang puddles, you've been busy!!

That 7014 is beautiful by the way, looks like a
robot ran it.

Puddles · Jun 28, 2011

trucker the 7014 was way tougher than the 6013, but I was surprised with the snap when it did let go. The 7018 never did snap! Again I beat the top plate right down on the bottom plate, and the weld never let go!

Thanks Lanse! :wink:

trucker 40 · Jun 28, 2011

Wow!Thats pretty good!

Anonymous-0 · Jun 28, 2011

So here's the BIG question. 7014 took over 3 times the hammer blows to break compared to 6013, was easy to get the proper size weld, leaves a beautiful looking weld and is just as easy to use as 6013.

WHY WOULD ANYBODY STILL BE USING 6013?

Very big thanks to Puddles for doing all these comparison tests. The results speak for themselfs. I'm sure the 6010 will be a lot better when it's burning properly.

Puddles · Jun 28, 2011

I've had trouble with Lincoln's 5-P Plus before, the 1/8-inch isn't as bad but this 5/32 is a mess! Both sizes will burn off to one side of the rod at times. Just about like fighting arc blow! :?

Anonymous-0 · Jun 28, 2011

For years the regular 5P was the only 6010 that wouldn't finger nail. That's why it was used almost exclusively. 5p+ is usually a not nicer to weld with than than 5P. Dipping in water might help.

Puddles · Jun 28, 2011

I've had a lot better luck with ESAB's 10-P Plus 6010, can almost do no wrong with it! I should have done the test with it. But I don't have any 5/32-inch. I didn't think I could get a full 1/4-inch fillet with 1/8-inch rod. I almost ran two passes with the 6011, but decided not to.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 28, 2011

The 1/8" should do, just go a little slower and let it build up a little more when you go back (in your whipping motion). The 6013 was slightly undersize. Burning properly the 6010 will penetrate a lot deeper than your first attempt. I've never had 5P+ weld that bad.

Mel in SW Iowa · Jun 28, 2011

I am just about through with the first 10# of 1/8" 5P+ that I ever used on an older Hobart gas powered
military surplus welder. I had always run 6011 on it before I read the posts in this forum. It seems
to run and weld like 6011, but not as much splatter to clean up so I really like it. I use a needle scaler to clean flux off of a weld before the next pass. I have been a big fan of 7014 to use on clean steel fabrications for years, so I have some 7024 to check out soon. It seems to be hard to find in the Omaha area.

My experience has been that its always been hard for me to change brands of rod once I find a brand that I like. I have always blamed it on
the difference in flux between brands, but I am
not certain that this is correct.

Thanks to everyone for the coaching.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 29, 2011

Most welders have a definate preference for specific brands of certain rods, like 6010 and 7018. 7024 usually all burn similar but some welders have a preference for those as well. Those are the most common rods used.

Davy Fireball · Jun 29, 2011

are all these test done with DC + OR AC and if you use ac are the welds tougher

Anonymous-0 · Jun 29, 2011

Puddles posted they were all done with DCRP. This gives the most penetration, which should give the most strength and toughness. Properly done on a good AC machine the results would be similar but not tougher.

7014 Break test.

Puddles

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trucker 40

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Lanse

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Puddles

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trucker 40

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Anonymous-0

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Puddles

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Anonymous-0

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Puddles

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Anonymous-0

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Mel in SW Iowa

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Anonymous-0

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Davy Fireball

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Anonymous-0

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