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6013 test results.

P

Puddles

Well-known Member
I was at the local ACE hardware store yesterday, they had some Forney 6013.
I ran a V-groove test plate this morning.
1/8-inch 6013, 115-amps for the root pass, 110-amps for the remaining.








I cut the coupons a little differently so you guys wouldn't think I was using other test coupons. :lol:








The face coupon has a very small flaw, less that 1/64th of an inch.
 
Thats awesome, man!!!

How did it run?? I wonder who made that electrode, I
know that Forney doesn't make anything themselves
anymore...
 


Lanse that Forney rod is a 1000 times better than the Lincoln rod. Not one slag pocket! 8)
 
Usually you're allowed a maximum 1/8" combined flaw on all your test bends. If you were doing a pipe test and had 4 1/16" cracks, you'd fail. Sometimes if it's on the very edge, they won't count it as a flaw. How about a fillet weld test with 6013? It should break a lot easier than the 7018 did.
 
I might could have buffed out that small flaw in the face coupon. But it will pass an AWS D1.1 test, you're right combined 1/8th inch.
I'll run a fillet bend test tomorrow with this new Forney rod. I sure like it better than the Lincoln stuff I had before.
 
Yes I grind off the backing plate, and grind down the weld flush with the base metal. Then I use a #36 sanding pad, then use a #80 sanding pad, slight bevel on all corners, and finish with all sanding marks running length ways with the coupon.
In the shop I worked in just a little under one hundred years ago :lol: , we had to retest every 3-months on all procedures, normally we were allowed to prep the coupons but the inspector had to run the coupon bending machine. Once in a great while he would be to busy / lazy to do it, I've seen guys rub soapstone on the rollers, and coupons before bending. :roll:
 
I found that Forney rod was easier to weld with than Lincoln rod in the early 60s.i bought a 50lb box of 6013 for 9 bucks in 1965.
 
I made a bumper pull hitch for my Kenworth truck and I ran out of 6011 but I had some 6013. I have never liked 6013 but I live 50 miles from town so I thought if I burn it in really hot it should be ok. Now I am kicking myself and wondering if it will be good enough. It was 3/16 in. rod and I ran it at 110 amps. It seemed like it was melting the base metal pretty good. It is welded on both sides of the braces. What do you think?
a43407.jpg
 
rip you'll have to get a whole lot closer for me to see. 110-amps for 3/16 inch rods seem awfully cold, but every machine is different.
I never ran any 6013 until a year or so ago, and I didn't like it at all! But a couple of these tractor forums I belong to people are always talking about 6013, when I seen a different brand I thought I'd give it a try with some testing. Well the test doesn't lie. For us weekend warriors a bend test is good enough.
 
110 amps for 3/16" is really cold. I wonder if he meant 3/32"? That would make more sense for burning the rod pretty hot. 3/16" usually burns around the 200 amp mark.
 
rip, that last weld is pretty rough! I'd grind it out and re-weld it with some 1/8-inch rod. 6013 I'd run about 115-amps, 7018 I'd run about 120-amps. If you have to, roll it and make all welds flat.
The first weld looks almost acceptable, little under cut / lack of fill in places. I'd ratter see a little undercut than cold lap.
 
Thanks for the advice. I will have to get some 7018 AC rod or borrow my neighbors DC welder. I don't know how Lance welded that forklift with 7018 rod. I can't get it to hold an arc, even at 225 amps.
 
Your 3/32-inch 6013 will work, even tho I think 1/8-inch is better. You're kind of in that hit and miss stage of welding. It'll come in time, you gotta burn lots of rod. Then you'll get like me and can't see!
 
I'm pretty new to welding myself but in my opinion it is WELL worth the extra effort to learn/practice with 7018 because of how much nicer it welds once you get the hang of it. Not to mention a stronger weld.
Make sure it's super clean and you have good connections at your ground (grind if you have to) and at your electrode holder.
 
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