Proper Tractor Shop Tools (Jacks, stands, lifts)

LJS30

Member
If I was even thinking about splitting a tractor, what would the proper tools needed in order to get the job done right, and most of all, safely?
 
Was just looking at the 3600 Ford Shop manual today and they had a nice setup with rails that go under the tractor and trolleys that supported each half. Reminded me of the setups you see movie-making to move the camera.
 
I split 60+ HP Fords with a large four wheel hand cart that we had around. It would just push under the front axle, between the front wheels, with the back end under the bell housing. I’d jack and block the engine on the cart bed. I always blocked the back end and rolled the engine forward on the cart and front wheels…..made it really stable to work on. Don’t forget to block the axle / engine pivot each side so it can’t roll over.
A friend of mine who was a Ford tech had the rail and trolley system mentioned below and it worked real well. It was like a small rail road track made with angle iron, and a large screw jack/trolley that ran on the track.
Use lots of blocking and make sure everything is secure when you split it. You’ll need to align the clutch when you put it back together, so you may want to get a tool for that. I just did it by eye and it always worked ok. When you push it back together, it should push fully home fairly easily. Don’t pull it together by tightening the bolts. I’ve heard some people use extra long bolts with the heads cut off as guides, but I’ve never tried that.
Chris
 
I like to hang the front half in a sling from above, and use a heavy floor jack supporting the rear half- Front half won't be going anywhere (and it won't roll over on the front axle bolster), and back half rolls straight back, then straight forward to rejoin. But the best part of this method is ease of putting the halves back together: roll the rear ahead just far enough to put a slight pressure on the front half (which is suspended, remember)- makes it easy to twist the PTO and/or flywheel to make the splines mesh, as they'll just slide into place when you have it lined up right.
 
my brother made a very simple stand that is ajustable for any tractor,it goes in the front casting holes.anybody that can use a welder can build it for about50 dollars of steel. he blocks the front and back of the rear end.Bottal jack or floor jack in front and blocks under hitch.we roll the front forwards on the stand that has 2 wheels (solid steel)it has threaded rod to ajust the rear of the front up or down.I used it to do my 1650 and I actually put it back together with out a second person.We found the front was a lot easier to roll smothly than the back. once the thing is split 4 inches we block the rear end solid(instead of letting it sit on jack)and then roll the front as far as you want.I wish I would have taken pictures of his stand and would post them. Maybe next time I go there.
 

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