Puddles

Well-known Member
Does anybody have any experience with this product? I need to seal the concrete floor in my 3-car garage, 24' x 42' = 1,008 square feet. In the winter I have so much moisture coming up through the slab at times it looks like it has rained inside the garage.
So far this looks like the best product I can find, any advice / experience?
Thanks!

Have to copy and paste this link. :oops:

http://www.bonedryproducts.com/default.aspx
 
Don't know Puddles. But if Bob Vila says it ok, I hope he isn't being paid to say it.

It doesn't say anything about using it on walls which has moisture with pressure behind it. I have some Duck's Back sealer that is good for walls and floors.

I suppose it should work but something that can also handle the hydraulic pressure of water on walls may be even better.

Stuff outhta work for the floor.

Any more, it is recommended to put down 6 mil plastic under all flatwork that isn't outside. The plastic serves as a moisture barrier.

That same moisture rises and absorbs in the concrete up from the ground as the moisture level increases. That moisture is what also freezes and thaws and causes cracks and spalling.

Good luck. Let us know how it works.
 
(reply to post at 10:27:30 07/03/10)

I had this garage build soon as we moved here. The area is pretty much sand, and on a hill, so I never dreamed of a moisture problem! I'd give anything if I would have specified visqueen moisture barrier under the slab!
I built an 8' x 8' well house in my pasture, about 15-feet lower in elevation than the garage, ankle deep water in the winter there. I used visqueen moisture barrier under that slab. You have to wade water to get to the well house in the winter, but the floor is as dry as my living room floor.
My shop is about 200-feet from this garage, same elevation no problems with moisture coming up through the slab there. I must have had this garage built over an artesian well or something! :x
 
I'm not exactly sure of your layout but you mentioned that the garage was on a hillside. What about putting a french drain on the upperside and down the other two sides, daylighting to the lower.
 
(reply to post at 11:58:35 07/03/10)

The garage is pretty much on top of the hill. Our drive way drops about 5-feet from the main road into our parking lot which is about 70' x 70' really close to flat. Couple years ago I was in California and my wife took the tractor and re-sloped the drive way and parking lot, believe it or not she did a really good job of cutting grade and a trench away from the garage. When I got home I asked her if she shot grade with my laser or transit, she laughed and said all by eye. 8)

I forgot to add, she also installed a catch basin with 8-inch drain pipe, day lighted it behind the garage into the creek. :lol:
 
The problem with painting Garage floors with anything other than garage floor paint would be your hot car tires will peel it off when you park on it.
Something to consider first.
 

Not sure hot tires will be an issue here. We live a 1/4-mile off the pavement. My wife parks her car on one of those ribbed mud and snow mats that I bought to see if all this moisture was from the water her car brings into the garage.

LOL! If Bob Villa told me it was raining, I'd look up! :wink:
 
not sure but I've seen this around here if the garages aren't heated and the frost comes out.takes till end of april to stop
 
Wish I could recall the name of the sealer we use on our underground water tanks, as they should be sealed before water is in them dad was told.

It's been a long time, and I was a much younger kid then.. seems like Thorocrete WaterPlug maybe? I know he had to do one thing, then another.. and I know one was sealing the tank.. I'll ask him next time I see him, if I can recall, as I have been going to ask him every time since this post started.

I also know before he painted his garage floor, he sealed that with something also.. maybe the same stuff, maybe not.. I don't remember that either.. but maybe he will

Brad
 

OK, follow up for those of you who are interested. I've been working on my garage floor all week. Had to take a 9-inch grinder with a 9-inch masonry disc, (couldn't find a cup stone locally) and rough up the entire floor. Only because the concrete placing contractor used a power trowel, this is recommended to allow the Bone Dry to penetrate into the slab. I waited the required 72-hours then I placed a couple pieces of visqueen 3'x4' on the floor, left them there for 24-hours, to see if the visqueen would draw any moisture up through the concrete floor. Nope dry as a bone, (LOL get it?) :lol: Next step will be to see if this works in the winter when all the rains return. So far it's looking pretty good! :wink:
 

Next step will be to see if this works in the winter when all the rains return. So far it's looking pretty good! :wink:[/quote]

What if you just dig a trench around the perimeter maybe a foot deeper than your pad (including fill etc) . Put a layer of styrofoam and/or plastic on the side, and fill it with gravel and if real wet, some drain pipe and backfill with gravel? Should solve moisture problems for the most part.


Dave
 

Dave I have a French drain on the uphill side, (front) of the garage with the downspouts run into it. This drain is hard lined down hill about 150-feet to a creek. The moisture is coming up through the slab.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top