Hickory Double Axe Handle

Red1

Member
I broke the handle off the axe chopping out a tree stump. Bought a new one at Ace Hardware but the sucker is giving me fits...I know it needs to fit tight but it seems several sizes too big. Any suggestions? Lubrication needed. Taking a wood plane and trying to shape it to fit.

thx
red1
 
Red1: rather than typing for half an hour, here's a link that explains it pretty well. I love fitting axe handles (and making them, for that matter, though we don't have much hickory around here)--there's something very satisfying about turning an old, rusty head into a finely tuned cutting instrument.
Hanging an axe
 
Wow, excellent site. I added it to my favorites. The only curious thing, I ask, is how did you go about finding axe information on the highway website? Just a lucky google find?

Kevin
 
I like to keep a stash of hickory handle blanks around for "whenever needed". I work them on a shaving horse to size after curing a few years but leave the head area go till I know what head will be going on, then shave it down to size, kerf it, and wedge it. Grandad taught me how to work a spoke shave for this.
 
4-1/2 inch angle grinder with sanding disk to get it close to fitting. Then slather it and the inside of the axe head all over with some epoxy and put it in the verticle hydraulic press and push that sucker into the axe head. The epoxy will act like a lubricant when it is pressed together and when it sets up it will really hold. The wood will bulge out the other side and it will never get loose or come apart. Have done all my sledges, pick axes, and axes that way and it sure holds them together.
 
If I recall, I was Googling for information on Collins axe history and came on that site. Ended up reading it cover-to-cover as it's got lots of other good info. If you're interested, here's another good site on sharpening axes, etc. as it relates to walking trail repair. I actually found this one while looking for a good source of info on sharpening drawknives, but most of the rest of the information there is decent as well.
Tips from the Crew
 
A belt sander works pretty good for shaping handles.
Put the handle in a wise and work on it with frequent trial fittings.
 
Thats not a bad site of fitting the handle, but you don't pound the handle into the head. The right way is to rougn fit the two and then place the head on the handle part way. Then strike the bottom of the handle in a downward motion on a hard surface, like an anvil or concrete floor. The weight of the head drives itself more firmly into contact with the handle than the hammer will. Same goes for rakes, shovels, pitch forks, hammers, etc. It's the same principal used on a pick ax or adze, only backwards.

The lack of knowledge today is appalling. This is simple stuff people should have been taught by their dad and grand dad or other mentor.
 
Well, its not pretty but I got it on. Used a band saw to get it width wise, but taking the thickness down, now thats the trick.
 
Well, I've done it the way the article mentions for 30+ years and hundreds of tools after being taught that by my grandfather, so there's obviously more than one "correct" way of doing it. As I was taught, striking it on the floor is a good way to either split the handle or deform the end. Again, not claiming the way the article mentioned is the only correct way, but it most definitely will work and work well.
 
On the railroad we would shave down the handle and then hit the bottom on the ground to drive the head on tight, then drive a couple of little steel wedges into the top. That kept the heads on our sledge hammers and spike mauls nice & tight.
 

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