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Frozen Door Locks

1

1 Dollar

Member
Real quick, what do you guys do to keep your non-keyless entry vehicles locks from freezing in the winter time? I put some powdered graphite in mine a few weeks ago, but it was frozen tonight pretty good and almost locked me out. Any help would be awesome.

Thanks
 
in 40 years i don't recall ever locking my doors we just don't have to and all my trucks are sticks and kids now days can't drive em anyway must say that i did have a two way radio taken out of one and got it back when he used it and i was talking to him and the dum a$$ gave me his name [ next door neighbors kid ]
 
That problem is caused by water in them. Spray the locks with WD40 about once or twice a month and you will not have that problem. Now if it is a problem right now heat the key or spray/pour rubbing alcohol in them and that will free them up fast
Hobby farm
 
Haha. Thats funny. I"m 17 but I drive a 5-spd F-150. But you are right, people my age typically wouldn"t know what to do with that big stick and 3 pedals :)

Thanks
 
If the problem is in the lock cylinder itself, I have had pretty good luck heating the key with a lighter and then pushing it into the key hole. Within a couple of seconds the key should turn. Then to keep it from happening again, use some lock solvent that has graphite in it.

On the other hand, if the problem is moisture in the door that freezes up the rest of the mechanism, the only way I have been able to quickly get into a vehicle is to pour hot water over the outside of the door to thaw it out. It might take a couple of gallons. And then take care of whatever is keeping the moisture in the door, like blocked drains in the bottom of the door.

If you have trouble with doors freezing tight to the frames so you cannot open the unlocked door, most of the time the problem can be fixed by spraying the door seals and the frames with spray silicone. But this has to be done when they are already apart and preferably dry. Good luck, don't you just love Winter?
 
You might try carrying a propane cigarette lighter to heat up your key. Heat the key and then stick it in the door lock. The heat off the key will melt any ice in the lock.
It works for me on my polebarn walk in door in the winter.
 
Hi 1Dollar,

What I would do is heat the lock up with a hair dryer too above 212º and boil the water out of the lock.

You already have the graphite in there to make it smooth operating.

T_Bone
 
Gotta agree with "Old" - I had an old truck that came up from SC and must have brought humitity with it! Once it got below 10º the ignition and door locks would freeze solid. A quick shot of WD-40 or Kroil would free it up on contact. A quick shot every few weeks ended the problem.
 
Here in the Great White North this is a common problem. A shot of methyl hydrate (gas line antifreeze) will do it. You can get small bottles of lock de-icer here with a skinny tip that fits into the door lock and then you just squeeze and shoot a bit in. I have found that a heat gun is great, heat the outside of the lock and then gradually push the key in and keep heating it. Be careful not to melt the door trim/paint!!

PS - skip the carwash until spring

Ralph - Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
 
1 Dollar, how do you like driving that F-150 5 speed? I have an '89 E-150 5 speed with the 300 six. I wouldn't part with it until it dies.

Dusty
 
I keep a can of WD40 in where it's warm. Soak the lock with it. Thats what I do for my locking gas cap. Just not bold enough to try some sort of flame heater on it...
 
Hello 1 dollar.
What i use is a product called lockeasy(not sure of the spelling) Liguid graphite won't freeze and it works great!
I can dig up the can if you can't find it.
Guido.
 
A heated key will get you in.

For maintenance, a shot of heat, followed by a shot of WD40 will dry it out. After that, dry graphite, but you'll need to do what you can to keep water out.
 
I've got an 88 with the 5 speed Mazda in it behind the 300-6.

I love that set-up, and it's definately pulled some oversized loads. I've pulled 8 ton loads of hay, 18' chopper boxes loaded with straw, and a 14' hydro-swing haybine. Gets about 18 HWY too. A little less pulling a trailer but not much.

The body is just a bout rusted off, almost 200K, but it still runs like a top and doesn't burn oil.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Mine is a 99 with the 4.6L. Its really geared too high to get going with weight on hills, but other than that is gets it done. Pulling full hay wagons at 25 MPH is 2100 RPM in 2nd. I've learned that that engine lives up high, so once I get the thing above 10MPH, just keep the RPMs higher if you got a big load. Best Ive seen is 17 highway. I do mostly town driving, and usually is around 15-16. Been lower lately, must be winter blend gas and cold engine inefficiency.

For some reason 3rd gear is getting hard to go into. Only has 65000 miles, so I don't know what is happening. Only hit 3rd gear in a burnout once ;-)
 
My insurance company gives a discount for the manual (6 speed) in my 2000 Superduty because it is a deterrant to theft. In other words, the average vehicle thief is too stupid to drive a stick shift. I've driven them for 50 years, and don't plan to change now.
 
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