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Wisconsin VF4 pulley ?

S

Sberry

Member
I have one of these that came out of a compact forklift. I want to toss the flywheel and disconnect assembly and put on a double groove pulley which needs a journal similar to a vibe dampener on a common V8 engine, real simple for direct belt drive from the engine crank. I assume it was made somewhere at some time considering the many applications.
 
I don't understand your post? A pulley to fit on the crank in front of the flywheel and screen like to drive a alternator or some accessory? I have a MVF4D (military version) with a cast pulley on flywheel end like that but it doesn't drive anything on mine right now. If meant the clutch end taking a clutch off the shaft on that end is shorter and a different size really too short for just a pulley. The clutches have a longer shaft for a wider pulley to go on easily. There were also accessory drives made for V4 Wisconsins that drove a generator & battery distributor with another stub shaft that stuck out and could drive a small hydraulic pump or other accessory. Take a look under parts manual section at the accessory manuals section at Wisconsin Motors site.
Wisconsin accessories
 
I have a pulley on the front of the engine to drive the alt. I want a pulley on the drive end, imagine this engine to run a belt driven air comp. I need simple pulley and hub assembly for the drive end of the crank.
 
You'll want a clutch on it for that unless you have some kind of unloader assembly on the compressor. Still going to make it harder to start with compressor under load. There were several cranks with many applications used on those engines so we have no idea what you have there, straight, tapered, long, short, keyed or what. Bearing industrial supplies sell all kinds of pulleys. Those like the Browning with taper lock centers have different hubs available for different shafts. Might find a used pully like that would work and see if they can get a center hub to fit your shaft for it.
 
I understand the unloader, that was an example of the nature of the setup. I don't need a clutch here, direct drive for this application. I am just changing engines from a factory setup on a straw spreader/mulcher, it had 20 hp 2 cyl Kohler on it I robbed and want a bit more poop for some tougher material, I had this engine.
The shaft is tapered, almost the exact setup as a vibe dampener on a car except it has a nut instead of a retaining bolt, has a keyed shaft and the oil seal runs over the hub same as front of a small block Chevy.
I can adapt a pulley if needed to this but am sure they actually made this part, its application would have been so common. The part on it now is similar to a clutch flywheel, had a pressure plate bolted to it. I had considered looking for a setup from the suppliers but this taper may be a problem and likely the hub would need to be turned to fit the seal in the front engine cover.
I am trying to fig out how to load a couple pics here.
 
I see what you have now and first time I've ever saw one like that on a Wisconsin. I sure wouldn't weld the other pulley on with nickel rod like someone there suggested especially on a rotating pulley in case it cracks. Would try getting a piece of thick steel plate to bolt on there and then bore it in center for a shaft to weld on it to mount your pulley on. Or turn a larger shaft down leaving a hub flange to bolt on the plate. Ditch Witch now has mostly small diesels but older ones used a lot of Wisconsins so might try some of their dealers for parts or adapters too.
 
You might try posting about this over on Smokstak.com and there is also one or two Yahoo groups for Wisconsin engines. Email them at WisconsinMotors.com with your model, serial no. & spec. no. and they should be able to tell what the OEM application was and more about it even the day it was built and year. I did last year on V4 on Lincoln welder and they sent me a copy of print with crank measurements in my engine.
 
I am looking for a flywheel, bellhousing etc.
for Wisconsin engine. Please tell me your engine
model, I may be interested in purchasing what
you are going to throw.
My e-mail is open
 
I will look and see how many of the OEM parts are there, I sorted thru some the other day but have some more to dig thru.
 
I think the engine you have has a fairly common modification known as "provision for clutch". The end of the crankshaft is quite a bit shorter than the normal keyed output of about 4 or 5 inches long. But the drive hub you have is made for an automotive-type spring loaded clutch. This was normally used with a Borg-warner transmission. Most of the Provision for Clutch engines were used with an overcenter type (Twin Disc or Rockford) clutch and a bellhousing or reduction unit was also mounted to the engine.
The drive hub is not a flywheel, so it can be removed. There should be a woodruff key in the crank. There should also be an allen head capscrew in the end of the crank with a washer under it that holds the drive hub on. If you remove that, the hub should just come off, although it might be stuck. Without the hub, the oil will leak out, since there is a seal that seals against the hub.
So what you need is a stub shaft with a flange that bolts to the drive hub in the bolt holes for the pressure plate. The shaft can then accommodate a regular QD sheave like the one you have. At least that's the way it looks to me...
 
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