Wisconsin Engine STICKY VALVES

JimC

Member
HI guys,
I have a 4 cyl Wisconsin engine that sits for long periods of time and the valves get stuck. I know how to pull the head and free them up.

I am wondering how I can keep this from happening, it is a real pain to keep head gaskets around and waste 2 hours to free them up. I was thinking of getting it running properly, then dropping a couple of quarts of oil and replacing that with SEA FOAM, or MARVEL MYSTERY OIL or something like that. I was thinking that I would run it with no load for a couple hours to clean up the inside of the motor.
Is this a good idea?
Any other ways to clean it up inside?

thanks
Jim
 
The correct way to store an engine is to run the engine until it is out of fuel and while it is still warm plug each spark plug and put a couple of teaspoons of oil in each cylinder. Then turn the engine over several time. Most poeple including ME do not do this. You can also, with the engine running pour a bunch of oil in the intake. Enough to stop the engine. This will limit valve sticking during storage.

Kent
 
Kent's idea is good.
I've got a number of Wiscinsin 2 and 4 cylinder
engines, and use a spray can of Marvel Mistery
Oil, to spray into the spark plug hole, trying
to point the little straw toward the valve stem.
It works for me
 
OK guys, I understand that I have to take some preventative measures before letting the engine set for long periods.

BUT< I am wondering how I clean the junk that is currently surrounding the valves stems making them hard to move up and down and making it hard for the lubrication to get to them?

I am sure that it is soo gummed up that there is little or no oil getting to them in order to keep them lubricated, especially after reading that there is not much oil pressure in the old wisconsin motors.

Like my first post asked, Marvel? Sea Foam? trans fluid? any other tried and true ways out there to clean out the gunk on the inside of the motor and get the oil circulating again?
Thanks
Jim
 
I would agree with greygoat, I have an old VP4 and when I bought it a valve was sticking. I would free it up and the next time it would stick again. I took the valve out and cleaned the valve stem and the valve guide. It was so nice to never have that problem again. It is not a big job to pull the intake and head to remove the valve.
 

Most of the trouble that I've had with small engines sitting is varnish on the valve stems from fuel.I haven't pulled any to clean them,I usually use WD-40 on the stems,sometimes you have to take the head off to tap the valves down one or twice before you get enough lubrication so that it moves on it's own,though.If this is a regular occurance,I'd try running a little 2cycle oil into the carb just before you shut it off for storage.The 2 cycle oil should put a film of oil on the valve stem to help keep it from sticking,a 1/2 an ounce or so should do it.
 
Thanks guys,
You have told me what I felt all along, I am going to have to get into the motor and remove the two valves and clean them. From that point on, I will try to shoot some 2cycle oil into the carb prior to shutting it down. It gets pretty expensive to run when you have to take the head off and replace the head gasket before you want to use it.

I have been shooting WD40 , and PB blaster on the valve stem when the head was off, tap the valve with the starter turning and it would free up well, The problem comes after I would then use it and turn it off. Two of the exhaust valves would stay in the open position sometimes with as little time as overnight. I wonder if the motor stops in the same position each time and that is part of the problem?

Now I have to identify what model the motor is so I can get the proper gaskets ordered to open it up.

Jim
 
As an alternative to what the others have said, you may want to treat the engine with "fogging" oil when you intend to shut it down for long periods of time............"fogging" oil is available at most motorcylce(ATV) and/or marine shops..............in addition you may also try an additive in the engine oil called Rislone Engine Treatment, it has a very high level of detergent that may help to remove the varnish/gum/deposits from the valve stems which is likely causing them to stick................

A trick that I've used in the past on engines with intermittent sticking valves is to take the Rislone Engine Treatment additive and introduce small amounts of it to the engine through the intake while the engine is running(this is providing the valves are free when you start the engine)...........you can either pour it directly into the carb. or via. a vacumm port while operating/opening the throttle enough to keep the engine from stalling. The worst that'll happen after this process is that you may have to clean the spark plugs................
 
The Wisconsin is a fine engine.I had my own machine shop in the 60,70,& 80. Here in Illinois we had those engines on balers ,combines & industrial equip. If you start with a engine in A-1 condition & service properly like the manual tells you along with the additives that have been mentioned they are trouble free.But any engine you store or only use 2-3 weeks out of the year will develope fuel & ignition problems & maybe sticking valves .One of the things I found on the baler & combine engines was due to not keeping the cooling system serviced (DIRT,DIRT,DIRT). It really weakened the valve springs, especially on the L head engines. Pickle them with Marvel Mystery ,run some in the fuel tank as recommended on the can. I am sure there are other additves ,but that is what I used. Earl In Illinois
 
We just had one where we reach thru the plug hole to unstuck one, looks like a guy could get the valve open and squirt a bit of carb cleaner down the guide?
 

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