This is my first and most likely my last post here...
Last year I replaced the spindle bearings on my Lilliston 7-six mower and info was difficult to find.
I wrote down how I did it so maybe this info will help someone else ..there are a few of these mowers still out there.
Please don't ask me questions as I did this last year and don't remember much.. but thought I would post what I did.
if you are doing this job read what I wrote and keep it with you while you are doing the job and it will make sense.
Lilliston 7-six spindle bearing replacement
Remove the blades.
Start with removing the 3 bolts in the pulley sheave until they are out of the pulley. (Set aside.)
Measure and document the distance from the bottom of the pulley to the top of the deck
this measurement will be used when you re-install the pulley so the belts line up.
There is a key in the sheave that I cannot get out. Pb-blaster the crap out of everything.
There are 3 additional holes in the sheave that are threaded using 3 (2 ) long bolts in these holes tighten down against the pulley to release the tension against the sheave .. then if there is still room between the deck and the pulley put a piece of wood under the pulley and use the long bolts to tighten down against the pulley forcing the sheave upward until it is loose the key came up with it.
Removed the sheave and the pulley and the thin spacing sleeve.
Removed the shaft nut and washer.
With the spindle hub still attached to the mower I used a 5lb sledge and hit the top of the shaft forcing it down and out of the upper bearing and the hub with the lower bearing and seal still on the shaft.
Removed the hub from the mower .. took a drive with a cheater bar to get bolts loose.
Using 2 large angle style crow bars .. (one on each side).. I was able to get under the bearing and seal on the shaft and force it up until it was loose and removed. (note: on one shaft this did not work and I had to use a die grinder to cut the bearing off)
Hub lower race removal used long drill extension (or a rod or whatever) as a punch at an angle entering from top of hub working around the lower race lip until I knocked it out.
Upper race removal has grease slinger cup under it so the punch wouldnt work.
Turning hub over I used a 10 3/4 drive extension and a large socket and the 5lb sledge to hit the underside of the slinger cup until it pushed out the race and cup. . Cup looks fine and will be reused.
Bearings are common and the number is --- 14136a/14276
Seal is common --- 2004002
Rebuild:
Sand the outer edge of the slinger cup until it fits into hub snug but NO LONGER a press fit.
Install the cup and the upper race (the race firmly holds cup in place)
Install the lower race.
Prior to installing the races --
I sanded the rough part of the shaft where the bearings sit until the bearing would slide over that part using a little force but not having to press it did the same on the lower part of the shaft however I did leave a little at the very bottom for the bearing to press on to.
IMPORTANT--- Added Qty 2 -- 1 3/8 shim washer to the bottom of the shaft followed by the big washer.
Greased packed the lower bearing and put some grease in the hub above it set this bearing in the race and installed the grease seal.
Installed the shaft and a few taps with hammer to firmly set the shaft on the bearing with the washers forcing it into place (like a wheel bearing).
Turning hub over grease pack the upper bearing and set it into race install grease seal.
Put large washer on shaft and qty 1 --- 1 3/8 shim washer on top.
Install tightening nut against shim washer .. rotate hub to set bearings and tighten nut fairly tight.
Clean threads and blue locktite nut. The nuts on mine have been dented a little where the nut sits over the slot for the slot key.
The shaft has a very thin shim sleeve that slides over the shaft with a gap for the slot key .
The pulley goes on now and using some wood shims is set at the height above the deck that was measured before the pulley was removed.
The sheave has a small slot on the outer side where a short slot key sits and that lines up with the slot in the pulley. The large slot in the sheave lines up with the slot in the spindle shaft. As you tighten down the sheave you can tap it with a hammer lightly to make sure the pulley stays at the correct height for the belts to line up. For example my left side pulley needed to be above the deck so I put a 3/4 board under the pulley to hold it there.
Every mower maybe different use these instructions with flexibility
good luck.
Last year I replaced the spindle bearings on my Lilliston 7-six mower and info was difficult to find.
I wrote down how I did it so maybe this info will help someone else ..there are a few of these mowers still out there.
Please don't ask me questions as I did this last year and don't remember much.. but thought I would post what I did.
if you are doing this job read what I wrote and keep it with you while you are doing the job and it will make sense.
Lilliston 7-six spindle bearing replacement
Remove the blades.
Start with removing the 3 bolts in the pulley sheave until they are out of the pulley. (Set aside.)
Measure and document the distance from the bottom of the pulley to the top of the deck
this measurement will be used when you re-install the pulley so the belts line up.
There is a key in the sheave that I cannot get out. Pb-blaster the crap out of everything.
There are 3 additional holes in the sheave that are threaded using 3 (2 ) long bolts in these holes tighten down against the pulley to release the tension against the sheave .. then if there is still room between the deck and the pulley put a piece of wood under the pulley and use the long bolts to tighten down against the pulley forcing the sheave upward until it is loose the key came up with it.
Removed the sheave and the pulley and the thin spacing sleeve.
Removed the shaft nut and washer.
With the spindle hub still attached to the mower I used a 5lb sledge and hit the top of the shaft forcing it down and out of the upper bearing and the hub with the lower bearing and seal still on the shaft.
Removed the hub from the mower .. took a drive with a cheater bar to get bolts loose.
Using 2 large angle style crow bars .. (one on each side).. I was able to get under the bearing and seal on the shaft and force it up until it was loose and removed. (note: on one shaft this did not work and I had to use a die grinder to cut the bearing off)
Hub lower race removal used long drill extension (or a rod or whatever) as a punch at an angle entering from top of hub working around the lower race lip until I knocked it out.
Upper race removal has grease slinger cup under it so the punch wouldnt work.
Turning hub over I used a 10 3/4 drive extension and a large socket and the 5lb sledge to hit the underside of the slinger cup until it pushed out the race and cup. . Cup looks fine and will be reused.
Bearings are common and the number is --- 14136a/14276
Seal is common --- 2004002
Rebuild:
Sand the outer edge of the slinger cup until it fits into hub snug but NO LONGER a press fit.
Install the cup and the upper race (the race firmly holds cup in place)
Install the lower race.
Prior to installing the races --
I sanded the rough part of the shaft where the bearings sit until the bearing would slide over that part using a little force but not having to press it did the same on the lower part of the shaft however I did leave a little at the very bottom for the bearing to press on to.
IMPORTANT--- Added Qty 2 -- 1 3/8 shim washer to the bottom of the shaft followed by the big washer.
Greased packed the lower bearing and put some grease in the hub above it set this bearing in the race and installed the grease seal.
Installed the shaft and a few taps with hammer to firmly set the shaft on the bearing with the washers forcing it into place (like a wheel bearing).
Turning hub over grease pack the upper bearing and set it into race install grease seal.
Put large washer on shaft and qty 1 --- 1 3/8 shim washer on top.
Install tightening nut against shim washer .. rotate hub to set bearings and tighten nut fairly tight.
Clean threads and blue locktite nut. The nuts on mine have been dented a little where the nut sits over the slot for the slot key.
The shaft has a very thin shim sleeve that slides over the shaft with a gap for the slot key .
The pulley goes on now and using some wood shims is set at the height above the deck that was measured before the pulley was removed.
The sheave has a small slot on the outer side where a short slot key sits and that lines up with the slot in the pulley. The large slot in the sheave lines up with the slot in the spindle shaft. As you tighten down the sheave you can tap it with a hammer lightly to make sure the pulley stays at the correct height for the belts to line up. For example my left side pulley needed to be above the deck so I put a 3/4 board under the pulley to hold it there.
Every mower maybe different use these instructions with flexibility
good luck.