Stuck Clutch or Rusty Shift Rails or something Else Jubi

I have been working on deceased father in law's tractor for about 3 months now and have learned a lot, mostly from you guys. Rewired it, new alternator and 12 volt conversion coil. Changed some gages, drained and refilled transmission fluid, adjusted clutch and have had good results, mostly. My new issue is the transmission shifting nicely when not running but hard to shift or even grinding when running. I read about rust problems on shift rails and also rusty, stuck clutches. Any thoughts or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I must have run out of letters in my title. It's a 1953 Golden Jubilee.

This post was edited by HanknotFrank on 10/22/2023 at 06:28 am.

(quoted from post at 09:25:41 10/22/23) I have been working on deceased father in law's tractor for about 3 months now and have learned a lot, mostly from you guys. Rewired it, new alternator and 12 volt conversion coil. Changed some gages, drained and refilled transmission fluid, adjusted clutch and have had good results, mostly. My new issue is the transmission shifting nicely when not running but hard to shift or even grinding when running. I read about rust problems on shift rails and also rusty, stuck clutches. Any thoughts or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I must have run out of letters in my title. It's a 1953 Golden Jubilee.

This post was edited by HanknotFrank on 10/22/2023 at 06:28 am.

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"Hard to shift", can you better define what you mean?

These are non-synchronized transmissions. Grinding is common if the clutch isn't fully disengaged, and/or one does not wait a bit for the gears to stop turning before moving the lever to engage a gear. No syncros can make for grinding during shifts when moving as well.

If it is running and the lever comes up hard when you try to get it into a gear, sometimes you need to let the clutch out just a bit to turn the gears so they align before the lever can slide them together.

I come to a complete stop or have not even moved yet when trying to put into gear. The rpms are as low as I can go without engine cutting off. I can not get the shifter to go into gear at all without serious grinding. I had a similar problem before and thought adjusting the clutch play to about 3/4 inch had fixed it. It has run good at times so I know how to easily get it to go into gear. It probably sat for 2 weeks since it shifted good so that made me think about a stuck clutch. My father in law let the tractor sit out in the weather for years. The transmission fluid was foamy from water getting in. That's why I changed the transmission fluid. That's about all I can think of.

It really sounds like rust on the flywheel and clutch
plate. The cure is shut it off, put it in gear and
start it. Be careful because it is going to move,run
it around with the clutch pedal down, and it might
just polish the parts.It might be the clutch disc
stuck to the transmission input shaft,it might free up
the same way.

(quoted from post at 18:10:58 10/22/23) I come to a complete stop or have not even moved yet when trying to put into gear. The rpms are as low as I can go without engine cutting off. I can not get the shifter to go into gear at all without serious grinding. I had a similar problem before and thought adjusting the clutch play to about 3/4 inch had fixed it. It has run good at times so I know how to easily get it to go into gear. It probably sat for 2 weeks since it shifted good so that made me think about a stuck clutch. My father in law let the tractor sit out in the weather for years. The transmission fluid was foamy from water getting in. That's why I changed the transmission fluid. That's about all I can think of.

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Being out in the weather can be a cause of rusting and sticking. Mouse nests can be another, they have been known to get into clutch housings and their urine can accelerate rusting. Some scenarios, since you say it set for an extended time. If the clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel, or the pressure plate, it would move the tractor when it was in gear. With it in gear can you push the clutch, to disengage it, and stop the tractor's movement? If it stops the disc isn't stuck to those items. The clutch disc hub could be stuck to the transmission input shaft such that the disc friction drags on the flywheel or pressure plate, keeping it turning but not having the force of a disc stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. The shaft could be seized in a failed pilot bearing or bushing, which could keep the shaft turning. The pressure plate could have had a failure, like a broken finger, and not completely disengaging because of that. Some of the clutch disc facing may have come off the disc and piled up between the flywheel and pressure plate, preventing the clutch from disengaging when you push the pedal.

If it doesn't come out of it, you may have to split it and check the clutch. There isn't a way I know of to check those scenarios properly, without splitting it.

I think mine can only be started in neutral. How do you start it in gear? Thanks.

It may be helpful to slightly abuse the clutch, in other
words intentionally slip it. With the tractor stopped
place it in high gear. Bring the engine up to about 3/4
speed. Apply some slight braking and slowly let the
clutch out intentionally slipping it. When the clutch is
fully engaged stop and repeat, now see if things got
any better.

I think my tractor has a gizmo that keeps it from starting while in gear. I will try your suggestion if I can get it to start in gear. I think I can take the gizmo out by removing top cover and at that time I guess I could look at the rails and check for rust. Thanks for responding.

I will try your suggestion today if I can get it in gear after starting or if I can remove gizmo that keeps tractor from starting while in gear. Thanks for responding.

If I am understanding correctly. In previous posts the clutch was an issue as you were trying to get this tractor running after it had been setting for an extended time. You adjusted the clutch and it appeared to be working correctly. It set a couple weeks and now has problems again. Is this a correct summary?

If so, it needs to be split and the cause found (it might be just sticking, or it might be something more serious) and corrective steps taken, or it is going to keep acting up until it quits all together. Just my opinion for what it is worth.

If you do get it free so it works and slip it to clean it as some suggest; when it is parked after use, block the clutch pedal down to take the clamping pressure off the disc to lessen the chances of it sticking while setting.

No one has told you how to start it in gear, given the interlock at the starter button. The starter button, in the transmission cover, you push to start it does not need to be removed, it can be bypassed with a jumper wire. Be sure the tractor is in neutral. Attach a length of wire to the small terminal on the side of the starter button. [u:0b6f0cbfd7]Touch[/u:0b6f0cbfd7] (not connect) the other end of the wire to a good ground spot and the solenoid should engage so the starter cranks the engine. Make sure you have plenty of travel area so you don't run into something if you can't immediately stop the tractor. Get on the seat, put it in one of the higher gears, hold the clutch pedal down, turn the key on, and touch the end of the jumper wire to ground again (don't use the starter button), it should start, and likely you will be moving. Starting and warming it up in neutral can make it easier to start in gear. Be extremely careful doing this.

I went out this morning to try and start with the tractor in gear. I took your advice and warmed it up in neutral for a good while and then to my surprise I was able to shift into any gear with the tractor running. I drove it around for a while and pushed in the clutch as suggested and the tractor coasted to a stop. I did that in 4th and then 3rd gear as well. The shifting was fine just like the last time I ran it until all of a sudden it did not want to budge out of gear, completely stopped, idle down (I'm referring to the last time I drove it, today it shifted fine). Thanks for the tip on the jumper wire. Thanks for responding.

I could not resist removing the cover of the trans to have a look inside. I drained the fluid first and was surprised that it was still kind of watery foamy even after changing it about 2 months ago. I keep the tractor in a shed so it is not exposed to the weather. Does any thing in this picture jump out at you? Thanks.

(quoted from post at 06:47:37 10/24/23) I could not resist removing the cover of the trans to have a look inside. I drained the fluid first and was surprised that it was still kind of watery foamy even after changing it about 2 months ago. I keep the tractor in a shed so it is not exposed to the weather. Does any thing in this picture jump out at you? Thanks.

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storage undercover does not prevent water from getting into your transmission or hydraulic housings. When you changed the oil two months ago did you rinse it out?

(quoted from post at 10:50:38 10/24/23)

(quoted from post at 06:47:37 10/24/23) I could not resist removing the cover of the trans to have a look inside. I drained the fluid first and was surprised that it was still kind of watery foamy even after changing it about 2 months ago. I keep the tractor in a shed so it is not exposed to the weather. Does any thing in this picture jump out at you? Thanks.

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storage undercover does not prevent water from getting into your transmission or hydraulic housings. When you changed the oil two months ago did you rinse it out?

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I did not rinse it out when I changed the fluid 2 months ago. Is there something you are suppose to rinse it with? Thanks.

(quoted from post at 11:27:50 10/24/23)

(quoted from post at 10:50:38 10/24/23)

(quoted from post at 06:47:37 10/24/23) I could not resist removing the cover of the trans to have a look inside. I drained the fluid first and was surprised that it was still kind of watery foamy even after changing it about 2 months ago. I keep the tractor in a shed so it is not exposed to the weather. Does any thing in this picture jump out at you? Thanks.

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storage undercover does not prevent water from getting into your transmission or hydraulic housings. When you changed the oil two months ago did you rinse it out?

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I did not rinse it out when I changed the fluid 2 months ago. Is there something you are suppose to rinse it with? Thanks.

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I use fuel in a 32 oz. Sure Shot pressure can that you pressurize off your air compressor.

Ok, thanks.