Lifter arm support repair?

Trying to help my neighbor out, her late husband broke their 1964 Ford Tractor like this, see pictures. It looks like it s just the pin, but she says it leaked fluid from the hole hence the cloth to prevent anything from getting inside. Any tips, would this be something that could be tapped back through or is it a major repair?

(quoted from post at 20:49:20 10/06/23) Trying to help my neighbor out, her late husband broke their 1964 Ford Tractor like this, see pictures. It looks like it s just the pin, but she says it leaked fluid from the hole hence the cloth to prevent anything from getting inside. Any tips, would this be something that could be tapped back through or is it a major repair?

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Welcome to the forums.

Are the pictures you posted of your neighbor's tractor, or a different one? I ask as those pictures appear to be of a John Deere, not a Ford. To properly answer your question, we need to know the correct brand. The model will help as well.

If it is a John Deer, as pictured, that is the load shaft. Has it broken off or did it lose the retaining pin on the left and slide to the right? If it just slid you may be able to slid it back in. Then install new retaining parts to hold it in place. If it broke you will need to install a new shaft and related parts.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 10/06/2023 at 06:12 pm.

The neighbor told me it was a Ford, which I haven t verified. I just snapped the pictures as I drove past. I can swing by this weekend and try to see if the retaining pin is the only issue, I didn t try tonight.

At a glance I would wager it s a Deer and not a Ford, just from the rear images I ve found in a ford service manual. I will give your suggestion a try about tapping it back through, and see if it was just the retaining pin. That will also let me get a better idea if it s a Ford or a Deere.

Thanks for your quick Reply!

Based on the ''JD'' casting mark on the axle casting in your first photo it's a John Deere tractor.

Seems kind of odd with it being green, tho!

The casting number, T21411, points to the model being 1020 or 2020.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/60191/referrer/navigation/pgId/251234

The link above should take you to a parts breakdown of that area on a 2020.

tractordata.com will show you where to look for the serial number plate once you figure out the model number.

(quoted from post at 20:33:35 10/06/23)
Based on the ''JD'' casting mark on the axle casting in your first photo it's a John Deere tractor.

Seems kind of odd with it being green, tho!

The casting number, T21411, points to the model being 1020 or 2020.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/60191/referrer/navigation/pgId/251234

The link above should take you to a parts breakdown of that area on a 2020.

tractordata.com will show you where to look for the serial number plate once you figure out the model number.

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Only owning a skid steer I wouldn t even even thought to look at that! Awesome so it is JD. I ll see if I can pull the exact model this weekend. I really appreciate the help!

If it has been run that way, chances are the oil has been lost out of it and the transmission pump may be damaged. The transmission/differential case are the hydraulic reservoirs on those.

(quoted from post at 04:29:56 10/07/23)
If it has been run that way, chances are the oil has been lost out of it and the transmission pump may be damaged. The transmission/differential case are the hydraulic reservoirs on those.

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It was only run 300 feet down to where it s parked now. According to my neighbor her late husband heard the clunk of the grader detachment and then just parked it in front of their barn where it s sat the last few months. If I pull the cloth they used to stop the leak, it still wants to so my water is it s low on that oil/hydraulic oil, but not out. I was going to drain and refill with new if I can get this fixed for her.

(quoted from post at 10:40:30 10/07/23)

(quoted from post at 04:29:56 10/07/23)
If it has been run that way, chances are the oil has been lost out of it and the transmission pump may be damaged. The transmission/differential case are the hydraulic reservoirs on those.

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It was only run 300 feet down to where it s parked now. According to my neighbor her late husband heard the clunk of the grader detachment and then just parked it in front of their barn where it s sat the last few months. If I pull the cloth they used to stop the leak, it still wants to so my water is it s low on that oil/hydraulic oil, but not out. I was going to drain and refill with new if I can get this fixed for her.

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That tractor does not use plain hydraulic oil, it has wet brakes. You need to use John Deere Hy Gard or a Universal Transmission Hydraulic Fluid (UTHF) meeting the John Deere J20C specification (like Tractor Supply's Premium UTHF). Drain it first so you can look at the seal inside that bushing to see that it was not damaged.

Once you get the correct model number, we may be able to help you with more detailed info, and a way to get at least an Operator's manual, if your neighbor doesn't have manuals for it. Look for a tag riveted to the right side of the transmission which would be the tractor serial number tag for around the vintage tractor that appears to be. Another place would be on the right side of the frame in the area above the front axle, for later model tractors.

Once you get the correct model number, we may be able to help you with more detailed info, and a way to get at least an Operator's manual, if your neighbor doesn't have manuals for it. Look for a tag riveted to the right side of the transmission which would be the tractor serial number tag for around the vintage tractor that appears to be. Another place would be on the right side of the frame in the area above the front axle, for later model tractors.[/quote]

I will have those images of the numbers tomorrow. An update from their son, her husband stopped it right where it dropped that arm. So no broken parts on the ground is a good sign. I ll drain the remaining fluid and see if I can get a scope in there too, but I ll let the awesome community here give me some direction before I start tearing it apart or tapping things back in. Thank you all for the fast replies.

(quoted from post at 12:48:20 10/07/23) Once you get the correct model number, we may be able to help you with more detailed info, and a way to get at least an Operator's manual, if your neighbor doesn't have manuals for it. Look for a tag riveted to the right side of the transmission which would be the tractor serial number tag for around the vintage tractor that appears to be. Another place would be on the right side of the frame in the area above the front axle, for later model tractors.

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I will have those images of the numbers tomorrow. An update from their son, her husband stopped it right where it dropped that arm. So no broken parts on the ground is a good sign. I ll drain the remaining fluid and see if I can get a scope in there too, but I ll let the awesome community here give me some direction before I start tearing it apart or tapping things back in. Thank you all for the fast replies.[/quote]

Given the amount of shaft sticking out on the other side there is a chance it just lost the pin (# 29 in the drawing wore out posted for you) and the load shaft slid to the right. When you look in the hole if the end of the shaft is visible and appears smooth/machined, that may be the case. The seal (#4) and O-ring (#5) are right in the bushing (#6) about 3/8'' in from the outside if I remember correctly. If all looks good, you may be lucky enough to just slide it back in then get the retaining parts to hold the draft links on correctly.

I will have those images of the numbers tomorrow. An update from their son, her husband stopped it right where it dropped that arm. So no broken parts on the ground is a good sign. I ll drain the remaining fluid and see if I can get a scope in there too, but I ll let the awesome community here give me some direction before I start tearing it apart or tapping things back in. Thank you all for the fast replies.[/quote]

So the plates with model and such are all completely illegible, but the good news is I confirmed it is a 1965 JD 2020 model. Client had the original service manual, though it s just as worn as the old girl sitting in the field.

Looking up at the internals nothing appears to be broken, just a bit worn and dirty. It does appear that it was simply a cotter pin that came off and allowed that lower shaft to slip out of the right hand side.

Do you know how much hydraulic fluid I should replace from empty in the rear?

(quoted from post at 20:09:04 10/08/23) I will have those images of the numbers tomorrow. An update from their son, her husband stopped it right where it dropped that arm. So no broken parts on the ground is a good sign. I ll drain the remaining fluid and see if I can get a scope in there too, but I ll let the awesome community here give me some direction before I start tearing it apart or tapping things back in. Thank you all for the fast replies.

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Given the amount of shaft sticking out on the other side there is a chance it just lost the pin (# 29 in the drawing wore out posted for you) and the load shaft slid to the right. When you look in the hole if the end of the shaft is visible and appears smooth/machined, that may be the case. The seal (#4) and O-ring (#5) are right in the bushing (#6) about 3/8'' in from the outside if I remember correctly. If all looks good, you may be lucky enough to just slide it back in then get the retaining parts to hold the draft links on correctly.[/quote]


2020 Operator's Manual says 10 gallons for the transmission and hydraulic. The transmission and rear end are the same oil reservoir and is used for the hydraulics as well. Plan on that amount, it likely won't take all of it, as some usually remains somewhere in the system, but I would expect it will need at least 8 gallons. It needs to be a universal transmission hydraulic fluid meeting the J20C spec, or John Deere Hy Gard. If you have it drained it would be a good time to clean the sump screen in the transmission (and maybe the transmission filter).

Do she have the operator's manual as well as the service manual? If not I can tell you where to download a free copy (tomorrow). That manual is better for info about checking fluids, service, etc., than a service manual.

2020 Operator's Manual says 10 gallons for the transmission and hydraulic. The transmission and rear end are the same oil reservoir and is used for the hydraulics as well. Plan on that amount, it likely won't take all of it, as some usually remains somewhere in the system, but I would expect it will need at least 8 gallons. It needs to be a universal transmission hydraulic fluid meeting the J20C spec, or John Deere Hy Gard. If you have it drained it would be a good time to clean the sump screen in the transmission (and maybe the transmission filter).

Do she have the operator's manual as well as the service manual? If not I can tell you where to download a free copy (tomorrow). That manual is better for info about checking fluids, service, etc., than a service manual.




Just the OP manual- So a location to both for my own reading would be awesome. Theirs was a bit fragile.

I plan on giving it a good clean out as she told me she can t remember the last time she cleaned the sump or even changed the fluid. Judging by the color of the fluid I can get on my finger, and the age of the tractor, I was probably a glint in my father eyes when she last changed the fluids. So 10 Gallons would be a good bet.

Your last post sounds like she has an Operator's Manual, not the Service Manual as you first posted. The Operator's manual has the info about the transmission oil capacity I posted for you. JD puts publication numbers on their manuals. What is the publication number on the manual she has (it should begin with OMT, if it is an operator's manual, then 5 digits)?

I don't know of any site where the 2020 Service Manual (SM2072) is available free online. That one is a purchase item. One needs to be careful about clicking on many of the places offering free manuals, they are often just fishing for your info.

Here is a link to where you can download a free copy of the Operator's manual. The Operator's maybe purchased if one wants a hard or electronic copy. The service manual and parts catalog are available for purchase there as well.

JD Ag & Turf bookstore

Click on Equipment Publications.

When that page opens type 2020 in the search box beside MODEL #, no need to click the search icon. That should give you a dropdown with several models with 2020 in the title. Click on the plain 2020 in the dropdown list. Since you say it is a 1965 it would be a low serial number, so I suggest using the North American Tractor, Utility showing as being for serial numbers 000000 - 062925. (You posted you cannot read the tractor serial number. 1965 was the first year for the 2020 so it would be a low serial number.)

Find the Operator's manual in the language of your choice (OMT26335 is English) and click on it. It should open and give you the options available publication types. To the right of the title, you have the download icon (arrow down with a line under it). The download is a pdf you can save to your device. If you want a printed copy or CD, the prices are there.

Clicking on the other manuals will let you see the prices if you want to purchase any of them, no free downloads of those.

The parts catalog is free to use online at the JDParts website. Here is a link to the 2020 parts catalog (PC971).

John Deere 2020 Parts Catalog PC971

Given the amount of shaft sticking out on the other side there is a chance it just lost the pin (# 29 in the drawing wore out posted for you) and the load shaft slid to the right. When you look in the hole if the end of the shaft is visible and appears smooth/machined, that may be the case. The seal (#4) and O-ring (#5) are right in the bushing (#6) about 3/8'' in from the outside if I remember correctly. If all looks good, you may be lucky enough to just slide it back in then get the retaining parts to hold the draft links on correctly.[/quote]ttps://forumphotos.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto110837.jpg[/img]

So pulled the rod out today; sad to say it was in fact sheered off. Would this be #21 on that post you guys had shared? What parts would I need to replace for this?[/img]

This post was edited by ColoradoDude on 10/15/2023 at 06:15 pm.

(quoted from post at 20:52:52 10/15/23) Given the amount of shaft sticking out on the other side there is a chance it just lost the pin (# 29 in the drawing wore out posted for you) and the load shaft slid to the right. When you look in the hole if the end of the shaft is visible and appears smooth/machined, that may be the case. The seal (#4) and O-ring (#5) are right in the bushing (#6) about 3/8'' in from the outside if I remember correctly. If all looks good, you may be lucky enough to just slide it back in then get the retaining parts to hold the draft links on correctly.

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So pulled the rod out today; sad to say it was in fact sheered off. Would this be #21 on that post you guys had shared? What parts would I need to replace for this?[/img]

[/quote]

It would be #21 except that if you read the Remarks for #21 it says ''(SUB L26937, (2) R57619, (2) R47061 AND (2) 11M7082). They are subbing #28 shaft, plus #29, #30, and #31 for both ends of it. The bushings #3, the thrust washers #4, and the seals#5 are the same numbers. You don't need #1 the plugs as you are installing a shaft. The bushings #6 will likely be ok, unless they got damaged when the shaft broke and slid through the left one. So you need one each number 28, Two each 29, 30, and 31. If you have all of the numbers 3, and 4 called for you can reuse the ones you have and purchase any missing ones. You will need to decide if you are going to replace the #5 seals or not.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 10/15/2023 at 07:19 pm.

It would be #21 except that if you read the Remarks for #21 it says ''(SUB L26937, (2) R57619, (2) R47061 AND (2) 11M7082). They are subbing #28 shaft, plus #29, #30, and #31 for both ends of it. The bushings #3, the thrust washers #4, and the seals#5 are the same numbers. You don't need #1 the plugs as you are installing a shaft. The bushings #6 will likely be ok, unless they got damaged when the shaft broke and slid through the left one. So you need one each number 28, Two each 29, 30, and 31. If you have all of the numbers 3, and 4 called for you can reuse the ones you have and purchase any missing ones. You will need to decide if you are going to replace the #5 seals or not.

I check both seals and neither looked to have any damage or excessive wear. I was going to source part WU-T26599 from https://www.worthingtonagparts.com - considering going for a used shaft as all the other pieces have been found and the spacers and Cotter pin are not damaged

No problem if it matches the old one. I would call and ask for a picture and some measurements to be sure it is right before ordering, since the parts catalog shows a couple different shafts based on serial number and you said you can't read that number. Just a bit of time checking could save time in the end.

(quoted from post at 03:50:23 10/16/23)
No problem if it matches the old one. I would call and ask for a picture and some measurements to be sure it is right before ordering, since the parts catalog shows a couple different shafts based on serial number and you said you can't read that number. Just a bit of time checking could save time in the end.

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At this time, rather than waiting for the load arms my neighbor just needs the front loader. So with that bit of information from her, would I be able to use 2 of the T22653 part to plug the loadbar holes? Are there any other parts needed or do they just plug in like a button?

I have never installed or even seen the plugs. I do not know if the plugs fit into the steel bushings or if the bushings have to be removed, which would add a bit of work to your task.

I would use the old shaft as long as it is long enough to be in the seals on both sides.

How much broke off the load control shaft, just the end the draft link (lift arm) rides on, outside the bushing on the left side? If that is the case, I would weld a washer or bar across the broken left end as a stop, so it cannot slide inside the bushing. (Weld the stop on the end, not on the shaft beyond the break, as it needs to ride correctly in the bushing to seal. Make sure the area that will be in the bushing seal is smooth, no weld spatter on it.) Install it from the left side (that broke off) and use shims between the bushing in the differential case and the load shaft's keeper pin on the unbroken right side to hold it from sliding to the left, enough to get out of the seal on the right. That should seal it for her needs, if the seals inside the bushings were not damaged, per your post. That would be a quicker fix than finding and installing plugs that need to be driven in and removed later without causing further damage.

For a few days, you might be able to use expanding plugs, like the ones used on boat drains or pipes, if you can find the right size. The risk is they likely will not be oil compatible for long and if the exposed part catches on something they could pop out.

Again, I would use the old shaft as long as it is long enough to be in the seals on both sides.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 10/21/2023 at 04:44 am.