Welding cracked Farmall Cub steering boltster

Bookman

Member
What is the technique of choice in welding a cast iron engine part? I have a cracked steering bolster on a Farmall Cub. I would think about replacing the part, but it looks like the engine mounts on the engine block have been welded also. Looks like more than once over the years it had been rode hard and put away wet. Now I consider its working days over and it is a parade tractor, but the crack still needs to fixed. I am not going to try it myself, but I want to know if the welder is experienced enough to do it.
mvphoto109126.jpg


mvphoto109127.jpg
 
You probably should take it to someone very experienced in welding cast. It should be taken off the tractor and thoroughly degreased and the area sandblasted. The safest weld would be to braze it. If it's not heated up right and cooled slowly after the weld you may make it worse than it is. Then a lot of people use a nickel welding rod with cast but electric welding cast is fickled. You could have two of the same parts from the same company and one would weld great and the other might just burn instead of welding. It depends on how much impurities are in the metal how well cast will weld and you have no way to know this. Someone experienced in welding cast would recognize this instantly and braze it instead. Then the electric weld needs to be cooled slowly afterwards too. Cooling too fast weakens the cast next to the weld.
 
I recommend you read the article by Curtis von flange ,posted here on yesterday s home page manifolds repairs. It will help you with
welding information.
I cannot advise till you tear it down and sand(glass bead example) the entire areas to be inspected and repair. Your success depends on
preparation.
I believe from what Im see the wrong rod was used and it Hardened the areas a round the weld and it cracked around the weld.s again.
Also I cant see the engine block. To bolster surfaces how true they are to mate up.
A lot going on there .
Some brief welding tips
Welds have to be preheated to proper temperature , and cooled very slowly , with lime for example I build containers big enough cover the
parts with lime to cool slow ( 2 days)
Also ask question also on welding forum ,they are very helpful.

Welds well done last for a lifetime ,I had a supperC that engine that was weld in the same area that lasted 50 years .

Good luck
 
(quoted from post at 13:21:35 08/29/23) I recommend you read the article by Curtis von flange ,posted here on yesterday s home page manifolds repairs. It will help you with
welding information.
I cannot advise till you tear it down and sand(glass bead example) the entire areas to be inspected and repair. Your success depends on
preparation.
I believe from what Im see the wrong rod was used and it Hardened the areas a round the weld and it cracked around the weld.s again.
Also I cant see the engine block. To bolster surfaces how true they are to mate up.
A lot going on there .
Some brief welding tips
Welds have to be preheated to proper temperature , and cooled very slowly , with lime for example I build containers big enough cover the
parts with lime to cool slow ( 2 days)
Also ask question also on welding forum ,they are very helpful.

Welds well done last for a lifetime ,I had a supperC that engine that was weld in the same area that lasted 50 years .

Good luck

Great information. What "welding forum" are you referring to?

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 13:21:35 08/29/23) I recommend you read the article by Curtis von flange ,posted here on yesterday s home page manifolds repairs. It will help you with
welding information.
I cannot advise till you tear it down and sand(glass bead example) the entire areas to be inspected and repair. Your success depends on
preparation.
I believe from what Im see the wrong rod was used and it Hardened the areas a round the weld and it cracked around the weld.s again.
Also I cant see the engine block. To bolster surfaces how true they are to mate up.
A lot going on there .
Some brief welding tips
Welds have to be preheated to proper temperature , and cooled very slowly , with lime for example I build containers big enough cover the
parts with lime to cool slow ( 2 days)
Also ask question also on welding forum ,they are very helpful.

Welds well done last for a lifetime ,I had a supperC that engine that was weld in the same area that lasted 50 years .

Good luck

Not finding the article by Curtis von Flange. Can you help me out a bit more? Thanks

Not finding the
 
The best solution would be to find a good replacement part.

The second best would be to make a new ear, weld or braze it, whichever the welder recommends, then
machine the surface flat after it has been welded. Trying to weld an ear back on and get it perfectly flat
is near impossible. If it is not flat there will be extreme forces which will likely break it when
tightened.
 
(quoted from post at 19:57:37 08/29/23) Click the Yesterdays Tractors logo with the red tractor
silhouette in it, scroll down a bit.

Found it. Thanks I definitely will not be doing the welding, if that is the direction I end up going. I have a request for a quote for a used part from JP Tractors. Steiner sells new but pricy. Thanks
 


Here are a couple more pictures. The previous one with some paint wire brushed off. It does not look any better. And then a picture of the right side where it has been welded too, but I cannot tell much.
mvphoto109150.jpg

mvphoto109151.jpg
 
I can see that an experienced welder did not do that job.
Looks like just a bead was run over the crack. That
definitely is no good. It has to be V out then start from
scratch with many many passes. And a small rod 1/16 th
rod to prevent getting the piece too hot. I am not a
welder but have been around welders helping them and
know a couple things. And do weld my own stuff when I
have to.
 

Don't shoot the messenger here, but the sad truth is that to have the engine block and the front bolster torn down to the point that the castings could be cleaned and the cracks V'ed out and preheated and successfully welded in a manner that would last and stand up to use would cost more than finding another Cub that isn't broken.
 
(quoted from post at 06:19:07 08/30/23)
Don't shoot the messenger here, but the sad truth is that to have the engine block and the front bolster torn down to the point that the castings could be cleaned and the cracks V'ed out and preheated and successfully welded in a manner that would last and stand up to use would cost more than finding another Cub that isn't broken.

Oh, I think you are 100% right, but I would not be the first guy to put more into restoring a tractor than it us can be sold for. It was a "free" tractor to start with but you know how that goes. I can take off and put back on the boster at the expense of my time. Now welding it is beyond me and might be pricy or I can get a new or used one---and a new one definitelly is pricy. The welds on the engine block are what concern me most. But as others have said, they have lasted a long time. Nevertheless, I think the working days of the tractor are over. It will never be a pristine show tractor but it still can be a parade tractor. I appreciate the candid advice.
 
(quoted from post at 06:08:53 08/30/23) I can see that an experienced welder did not do that job.
Looks like just a bead was run over the crack. That
definitely is no good. It has to be V out then start from
scratch with many many passes. And a small rod 1/16 th
rod to prevent getting the piece too hot. I am not a
welder but have been around welders helping them and
know a couple things. And do weld my own stuff when I
have to.

I took some welding classes many years ago, and know just eough to be dangerous---and to know this is far beyond my capabilities. I suspect it should be taken off, preheated, welded slowly so not to get too hot, and then very slowly cooled down---and it still could crack. Steiner does sell the piece new, but I do not know the tolerances, but probably okay---but not cheap. I am checking into the price of a used one. The welds on the engine block probably concern me most. At best it is not a working tractor but an occasional parade tractor. I appreciate all the good advice.
 

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