Clutch release bearing gone bad?

Sfath

Member
Hi all,

Some advice please. I got a Mitsubishi MT372d tractor with 350 hours on the clock and it makes a grinding noise whenever I release the clutch out but NOT when I pull the clutch in or hold it there. I googled symptoms of a bad release bearing and it said it makes a noise whenever the clutch pedal is pushed in or held there. But mine doesn't do that. It just makes that noise when the clutch pedal is released out. So I am asking if anyone knows what my problem could be?
Also, is 350 hours on the clock too low for a release bearing to go bad?

Sfath
 
When the symptoms are opposite those of a
failed T.O. bearing one would typically
suspect a failed transmission input
bearing, TRANSMISSION pilot bearing or
countershaft bearing. Have you verified
that the transmission has the correct
level of clean oil in it?
 
A brand new bearing can be bad, especially the way they make things today. I've had to split a tractor before to replace a new bearing. The worst of it is the
old bearing was good, I just put a new bearing in so everything would be new.
 
(quoted from post at 14:55:32 09/25/22) When the symptoms are opposite those of a
failed T.O. bearing one would typically
suspect a failed transmission input
bearing, TRANSMISSION pilot bearing or
countershaft bearing. Have you verified
that the transmission has the correct
level of clean oil in it?

Hi,

Yes the transmission has correct level of clean oil in it.

You bring up some good possibilities. I have the parts manual of my tractor but I cannot find where the transmission input bearing is located, or the pilot bearing, or where the countershaft bearing is located. I looked on the right side of book but cannot find any of those bearing names. Could you please point them out to me?

The first is the chart of clutch and second and third photo is of the gearbox.-


mvphoto97657.jpg


mvphoto97658.jpg


mvphoto97659.jpg



This post was edited by Sfath on 09/25/2022 at 08:56 pm.
 
Wore out is using generic or ..Farmall.. terms for the
bearings he is talking about. In your second picture
Number 5 would be the input shaft bearing, number 7
is the pilot bearing, the 3 gears 9, 10 & 11 slide on
shaft 6 those are the gears the shift forks move when
you shift gears. The front of shaft 6 goes inside the
needle bearing which sets inside shaft 1 or ..pilots.. in
the input shaft. Shaft 6 only turns when the machine is
moving. So if that bearing is bad the input shaft turns
in neutral but the main shaft 6 does not. So if bearing
7 is bad it would make noise. Numbers 33 and 17 are
the counter shaft bearings. Generally in most
transmissions the counter shaft has a gear that is
constantly in mesh with a gear on the input shaft. So
again anytime the input shaft turns the counter shaft
turns, so if it had bad bearings they could make a
noise. I cannot tell for sure if that is the layout in this
transmission by the parts diagram, it is a little hard to
tell because the gears are not named. It looks like
there are descriptions to the right of the page that may
have helped determine this.
 
(quoted from post at 22:56:50 09/25/22) Wore out is using generic or ..Farmall.. terms for the
bearings he is talking about. In your second picture
Number 5 would be the input shaft bearing, number 7
is the pilot bearing, the 3 gears 9, 10 & 11 slide on
shaft 6 those are the gears the shift forks move when
you shift gears. The front of shaft 6 goes inside the
needle bearing which sets inside shaft 1 or ..pilots.. in
the input shaft. Shaft 6 only turns when the machine is
moving. So if that bearing is bad the input shaft turns
in neutral but the main shaft 6 does not. So if bearing
7 is bad it would make noise. Numbers 33 and 17 are
the counter shaft bearings. Generally in most
transmissions the counter shaft has a gear that is
constantly in mesh with a gear on the input shaft. So
again anytime the input shaft turns the counter shaft
turns, so if it had bad bearings they could make a
noise. I cannot tell for sure if that is the layout in this
transmission by the parts diagram, it is a little hard to
tell because the gears are not named. It looks like
there are descriptions to the right of the page that may
have helped determine this.

Thanks a lot for pointing all that out!

But it kind of scares me now seeing how complicated it would be to change all them parts, if indeed that is what's wrong with it. Seems like a more complex and bigger job then if it was a bad release bearing.

Any idea what would happen if it was a bad input bearing, or pilot bearing, or countershaft bearing and I just kept driving it? How long would it last and could I do more damage if I do nothing?

I also forgot to say in my first post that the grinding noise goes away as soon I released the clutch and start driving. It only makes that noise while releasing the clutch out but makes no noise when driving. And I said before it makes no grinding noise while pressing clutch in or holding it there.
 
ASSUMING here, that you hear no noise when clutch pedal is fully depressed, or when fully released? Only while pedal is coming up and tractor is starting to move?

If that's the case, your transmission and/or pilot bearings are not the problem.

A throw out bearing would begin making noise as soon as you move the pedal down past free play. It would continue until you're off the pedal entirely. Pilot bearing would only be problem during the bottom 1/3 or so of pedal travel whether going down or coming up.

Is any of that consistent with your noise? If not, the issue is probably in the clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 16:34:38 09/26/22) ASSUMING here, that you hear no noise when clutch pedal is fully depressed, or when fully released? Only while pedal is coming up and tractor is starting to move?

If that's the case, your transmission and/or pilot bearings are not the problem.

A throw out bearing would begin making noise as soon as you move the pedal down past free play. It would continue until you're off the pedal entirely. Pilot bearing would only be problem during the bottom 1/3 or so of pedal travel whether going down or coming up.

Is any of that consistent with your noise? If not, the issue is probably in the clutch.

Hi,

Yes that is how it is with the tractor. It only makes noise when releasing the clutch out but not while it is driving, or when pushing the clutch in, or holding clutch pedal pushed down either. Just when releasing clutch out.

It what you say is true then I will be glad if I don't have to replace anything in transmission. If it is the clutch can I just keep driving it then until it gives way one day?

I wonder how it could be the clutch if the tractor has only 350 hours on it? I suppose the previous owner could had been rough with it. I just bought it last year. Here is a photo of my tractor. It's a Mitsubishi MT372d but with MT13 stickers. That's how it is sold in Japan but I'm in Australia. The only difference is the MT13 has internal air filter.

mvphoto97692.jpg
 
Hours don't matter when it comes to a clutch. Your tractor has no loader, the notorious "clutch killer" but even so, I've seen clutches completely worn out in 50 hours.

If this is where you are, I wouldn't be afraid to continue operating it until something gets worse. When you get to that point, what's the difference? You're going to replace it all anyway.
 
I wondered about this. Clutch engagement noises are
very rare on a small tractor like this. I believe it has a
Diesel engine and the clutches are enclosed pretty well
surprisingly you hear any noise. Clutches can generally
wear the lining down to where the rivets hit the
flywheel or pressure plate metal and even wear
grooves in them and you never hear any noise. What I
have heard the loudest clutch engagement noises from
is gas powered heavy duty trucks. Many of them have
double disc clutches. Getting a twin screw moving in a
field with a 20ft box and 600 bushels on it can make
them squawk.
 
(quoted from post at 19:31:51 09/26/22) Hours don't matter when it comes to a clutch. Your tractor has no loader, the notorious "clutch killer" but even so, I've seen clutches completely worn out in 50 hours.

If this is where you are, I wouldn't be afraid to continue operating it until something gets worse. When you get to that point, what's the difference? You're going to replace it all anyway.

Well that's good news if my clutch is indeed the problem and that I can keep driving it until it until the end. Thanks for the tip!
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:45 09/26/22) I wondered about this. Clutch engagement noises are
very rare on a small tractor like this. I believe it has a
Diesel engine and the clutches are enclosed pretty well
surprisingly you hear any noise. Clutches can generally
wear the lining down to where the rivets hit the
flywheel or pressure plate metal and even wear
grooves in them and you never hear any noise. What I
have heard the loudest clutch engagement noises from
is gas powered heavy duty trucks. Many of them have
double disc clutches. Getting a twin screw moving in a
field with a 20ft box and 600 bushels on it can make
them squawk.

Yes, it has a 2 cylinder diesel engine.

The grinding noise is loud and pretty noticeable, but brief while releasing clutch pedal. I surely hope the noise is the clutch!

The owners manual says it has a "dry single plate clutch of diaphragm-spring type".
 
''I can keep driving it until it until the end''

I concur!

That's how things work with most any mechanical problem.

Whether or not that is a good plan remains to be seen!
 

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