Ford 801 Sputters and dies under load.

Tzerambo · Sep 20, 2022

Ive got a ford 801 with the 172 gas engine. When Im
plowing the field and put the tractor under a good load it
does fine for a few passes but then it soon starts to sputter
and stalll. If you let it cool off for a minute it will run fine
again but after a few minutes of plowing it goes right back
to sputtering. Ive already replaced the spark plugs, plug
wires,condenser, points, rotor, and the cap. Just yesterday I
put a new 12v coil that is internally resisted on from tractor
supply and it seemed to almost cure the problem but on the
drive home it started to sputter going up a hill in 10th gear.
Could this be a crappy coil from tractor supply or another
issue? Also Ive rebuilt the carb, fuel lines and the bottom
drain in the tank has been replaced. Any advice?

old · Sep 20, 2022

Learn to trouble shoot then parts NEVER part before trouble shooting.
#1 do you have a good blue white spark at the center wire of the distributor cap and at all 4 plug wires that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more.
#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutes.
#3 is the gas in the tank boiling??
#4 when was the last time you checked the air cleaner and dumped the water and mud and filled with fresh oil?

Tzerambo · Sep 20, 2022

So the gas in the tank was boiling and I replaced the fuel cap and I also put some heat shielding tape below the tank and on top of the the muffler and it no longer boils. I havent changed the pot of stew in be cleaner yet could the be causing the problem?

old · Sep 20, 2022

A dirty air cleaned can cause many odd problems. There should also be a heat shield under the gas tank so as to not let the gas boil.

Tzerambo · Sep 20, 2022

I will clean it out and let you know what happens.

Steve@Advance · Sep 21, 2022

The boiling gas is a clue.

Retarded ignition timing will cause the exhaust to run hotter under load. Be sure the centrifugal advance is free and working. Also check the distributor shaft for side play, a worn distributor will cause the points setting to change, changing the timing, shortening the life of the points, and can cause the coil to overheat.

It is possible the new coil is bad or boxed wrong. When it acts up, feel the coil, it should not be too hot to touch. Take a voltage reading from the + terminal to ground, engine off, ignition on, points closed. If near battery voltage, it needs a 3 ohm coil. If down around 6v, there is a resistor in the circuit, and needs a 1 1/2 ohm coil. Check your coil across the primary terminals out of circuit to see if it is the correct coil.

Ford 801 Sputters and dies under load.

Tzerambo

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old

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Tzerambo

New User

old

Well-known Member

Tzerambo

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Steve@Advance

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