Ford 3000 governor adjustment and carb backfire

FordinTN

New User
Purchased a Ford 3000 Gas burner approx 72 model that needs a good bit of work. Have re wired and will turn over but not crank. Has spark at plugs and compression. When I pull the throttle lever to give it fuel the throttle rod moves but the governor arm does not. It does not move throttle on carb at all. Removed the throttle rod with spring per manual and it is adjusted at the proper length for the bell crank I have. Head was rebuilt on tractor before I bought it. Also when attempting to crank it backfires through bottom of carb. I am guessing this has something to do with too much fuel. Carb has been gone through and cleaned but not rebuilt. Any advice?
 
Sounds like the firing order is wrong and need to be set correctly. As in it is firing when the intake valve is open on at least one cylinder
 
(quoted from post at 08:56:32 09/18/21) Sounds like the firing order is wrong and need to be set correctly. As in it is firing when the intake valve is open on at least one cylinder

Can you walk me through how to do that? Far from an expert on engines. My understanding firing order is 1-2-3 as written on head. I have wires from distributor going from mark of 1 on cap to 1 (closest to rear of tractor) then counter clockwise on distributor cap 2 and 3 cylinder.
 
#1 cylinder is the front cylinder as in by the radiator. You also have to watch which way the rotor turns or you can wire it up backwards. What you have as #1 is number 3
 
Ok I have corrected firing order with nearest radiator going to #1 on distributor. It is 12V with alternator. Everything I read says from #1 on distributor order is counterclockwise.
 
When I check rotation I just pull the cap off and then I am 100% sure which way it turns
 
Need to find out why the governor is not moving. It could be stuck wide open and
have a runaway when it does start!

A normally operating governor, engine off:

Should close the throttle plate against the idle stop screw with the dash lever
set at idle.

Should spring load the throttle wide open when the dash lever is set for off idle
to full speed.

If that is not happening, need to find out why or what is not moving BEFORE
starting!
 
In regards to TDC, the gentleman I bought it from just put the head back on and did nothing else, so Im sure it is likely out of time. Can anyone advise me a good way to set timing on a 3000?

In regards to the governor/ throttle...currently when adjusting the throttle lever, the governor rod does not move any. I can move governor rod by moving the throttle on the carb itself(it is not stuck in one position)...and if I hold pressure on throttle on carb while adjusting hand throttle lever it will move The governor arm. I mentioned in previous post that I removed the throttle rod/ spring assembly and it was correct length. It is a tension issue but dont know how to fix it. Should the idle speed screw on carb be touching body of carb at low idle?
 
If that is the case good chance it needs the valve tappets set and in doing so you can also find TDC and see where the rotor is pointing.
 
To set the timing without removing the head you need to pull the spark plug closests to the front of the tractor completely out get a light and bump the
key untill the crank is as close to dead center as possible verticle wise that is, Once there re insert plug and if possible start the tractor and fine
tune by ear using the disributor
 
Like Agro said bump it to the top of its stroke. Pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. Rotate the distributor or plug wire position so the rotor aligns with the #1 cylinder wire.
 
Like Old said the valves may need some attention if the previous owner just set the head on it. You can take the valve cover off and see if they even move when your cranking it over.
 
(quoted from post at 05:17:55 09/20/21) Like Old said the valves may need some attention if the previous owner just set the head on it. You can take the valve cover off and see if they even move when your cranking it over.

Will try to check valves later today. Thanks for advice. I placed long ratchet extension in spark plug hole of plug #1. Bumped the ignition and when the ratchet extension is at its highest, the rotary button is pointing between plug 2 and 3 on distributor cap. Does the friction portion (metal sticking out...not spring on top) of the rotary button need to be pointing to the #1 on distributor cap when ratchet extension is highest? If so, it would need to move 180 degrees if I am understanding everything correctly?
 
To find TDC compression stroke, which is where the rotor needs to point to #1, pull the plug, hold you finger over the hole and slowly turn the engine until you feel pressure.

Continue to turn until the piston is at top, or slightly before turning the crank clockwise

Set the distributor so the rotor is pointing to the #1 cap tower. That will get it started, fine adjust from there.
 
I was able to find TDC and the rotor was approx 180 degrees from the #1 position on distributor cap. I believe I fixed this by loosening the distributor and moving rotor to where it now lines up properly with #1 when at TDC. I tried adjusting the tappets on compression and exhaust as outlined in manual. When I attempt to crank a few times and then place feeler gauge again on correct stroke they dont stay the correct measurement. Also, still will not crank.Any advice?
 
(quoted from post at 08:51:43 09/18/21) Purchased a Ford 3000 Gas burner approx 72 model that needs a good bit of work. Have re wired and will turn over but not crank. Has spark at plugs and compression. When I pull the throttle lever to give it fuel the throttle rod moves but the governor arm does not. It does not move throttle on carb at all. Removed the throttle rod with spring per manual and it is adjusted at the proper length for the bell crank I have. Head was rebuilt on tractor before I bought it. Also when attempting to crank it backfires through bottom of carb. I am guessing this has something to do with too much fuel. Carb has been gone through and cleaned but not rebuilt. Any advice?

Our Ford 3000 runs, and once in a while, during starting, it will "backfire through the bottom of the carb", as you say.

The first time that happened to me, I came here and asked what the heck was going on. I learned that the carb has sort of a pressure release safety mechanism for backfires.

Now, in your case, you're trying to figure out other problems as to, why it backfires and won't start. And, people are guiding you as to how to check timing and such.

But, I'm just saying... even after you solve this problem, these engines will backfire sometimes during a start, especially a cold weather start, and it will come out through the carb. The carb is designed to do that. So, once you get the tractor running, you won't need to be alarmed about the occasional backfire spitting out of the carb.
 

When I read your reply to Steve@Advance, I didn't see that you ensured that you were at TDC of the compression stroke.

The piston will be at TDC twice during a four cycle engine cycle. Once at the top of a compression stroke and once at the top of an exhaust stroke.

If you were at TDC of an exhaust stroke with your ratchet test, that would explain the why the distributor would be not pointing at the #1 tower.

Make sure you are at TDC of a compression stroke. It's worth double-checking using the method that Steve@Advance mentions.

Measure twice... cut once... that type of thing.
 

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