JD 4200 splitting

Tractor whines in all gears.

I'm splitting my tractor to find the problem, which I assume is a bad ball bearing. Never split a tractor.

I've taken off most of the external stuff but can't get the hydraulic lines loose. They are so stubborn! I can get the nuts to turn, but they also turn the fitting. Most of them I can reach with two large wrenches, so I assume I'll be able to eventually get them loose. But the fitting that runs to the SCV under the seat from the rear gear pump doesn't have enough room for both wrenches.

Any idea how to get this loose? I'm considering order a "thin" wrench which might fit in the narrow space.
 
Hydraulic line enters SCV.
mvphoto65244.jpg
 
Working on my backhoe. Big lines real
close. I made a crows foot out of a 1 1/4
wrench. Welded a small 3/4 drive socket to
a short piece of it. That way you can get
everything right for your application. Did
you Google splitting your tractor?
 
(quoted from post at 23:24:13 11/21/20) Working on my backhoe. Big lines real
close. I made a crows foot out of a 1 1/4
wrench. Welded a small 3/4 drive socket to
a short piece of it. That way you can get
everything right for your application. Did
you Google splitting your tractor?

I'll probably wind up modifying a wrench to make this work.

As for googling, I have the service manual, which seems to be pretty clear. thank you.
 


When you are ready to roll it be sure to get it level front to back first, then block the front and roll the rear. Support the rear with a wheel type trailer jack attached rigidly to the center housing through a fabricated bracket. drive wooden wedges into the front axle pivot so that it cannot tip to one side.
 
(quoted from post at 09:44:47 11/22/20)

When you are ready to roll it be sure to get it level front to back first, then block the front and roll the rear. Support the rear with a wheel type trailer jack attached rigidly to the center housing through a fabricated bracket. drive wooden wedges into the front axle pivot so that it cannot tip to one side.

Thanks for the advice. I was going to roll the front, but maybe you have experience and I have none. I also have a simple (new) floor jack. Will that not work?
 
(quoted from post at 15:52:46 11/22/20)
(quoted from post at 09:44:47 11/22/20)

When you are ready to roll it be sure to get it level front to back first, then block the front and roll the rear. Support the rear with a wheel type trailer jack attached rigidly to the center housing through a fabricated bracket. drive wooden wedges into the front axle pivot so that it cannot tip to one side.

Thanks for the advice. I was going to roll the front, but maybe you have experience and I have none. I also have a simple (new) floor jack. Will that not work?

The front is dangerous to move because of the front axle pivot, If you don't get good purchase with both wedges. A floor jack is good until the housing or the oil pan slips off the jack. You are relying on just metal to metal friction on a very small surface area. The trailer jack bolted to the side is positive. It won't slide, shift or tilt. Also the big rear tires give you leverage when you are pushing it.
 
So wedge very securely at the point in the picture? And the opposite side?

The a trailer jack like this. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-dual-wheel-swing-back-bolt-on-trailer-jack-69779.html

Bolted to the frame?
mvphoto65319.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 16:39:29 11/22/20) So wedge very securely at the point in the picture? And the opposite side?

The a trailer jack like this. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-dual-wheel-swing-back-bolt-on-trailer-jack-69779.html

Bolted to the frame?
mvphoto65319.jpg


Yes, you have the right spots for the wedges, and yes, the correct jack, although a single wheeled one would be adequate. You then need to fabricate a bracket that will go into three holes on the side of the center housing, with holes in it to bolt the jack up to. On many tractors running boards or fenders are removed and those holes are used.
 
Sometimes you have to make/modify a wrench to do a job. Visit a pawn shop,or a cheal Tractor supply wrench are good candidates so
you aren't butchering up your good snapon.I and most other 'mechanics' have an assortment of modified wrenches.The prior suggestion
about wedgeing something( A bar;screwdriver...)between the frame and a flat on the nut is another common remedy for areas that are
too tight to get a wrench on.
 
Keep turning and when the fitting comes free of the housing
you’ll be able to get a wrench on it and take the fitting out of
the line . If it’s whining in all gears does it stop when you push
the clutch ?
 

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