Seized Oliver 66

Still workin on this project, don't really wanna pull the block unless necessary. Have cy's 1, 2, and 4 freed up it's # 3 that's causing me grief. I have head off, rod cap nuts off #3, have tried the ATF fluid and some gas and lit it, with a bar under a hydraulic bottle jack pushing up on piston (front wheels of tractor inches off the ground still no movement.
 
If you're lucky, the sleeve will pop loose and you can get the piston and sleeve together. All that holds them in are a couple of rubber o rings on the bottom and a lot of rust.
 
When you push up on the piston with the jack and lift the tractor, get a block of wood that fits in the bore and smack it with a sledge. I just had to do this on a Case I just rebuilt. I did everything you did and this is how I got mine to come out, the sleeves stayed in.
 
Why don't you want to pull the block?
If the tractor was mine I would completely. dismantle
engine to check and measure all parts
But it's your tractor and it's up to you
 
I've been asking that for a month. There's only four bolts and it lifts right out. When he finally throws in the towel and does it he'll be slapping himself for not doing it a lot sooner.
 
I can't answer for OP but maybe he is the same position I am. I am also working on freeing some pistons in a Farmall M and pulling the block for me is not gonna happen. No place and nothing to use to pull it. I work out in the yard, no concrete to work on, therefore no place for a hoist. Of course, I could get or build a boom pole for my Oliver 1755 tractor, but that's all low priority for now, too many other irons in the fire.
 
I think you've got enough experience with Olivers to know how easy it is to pull the engine on that 66 though. Take the driveshaft coupler apart, pull the PTO shaft and four motor mount bolts and lift it out. I don't even think the radiator would have to come out with that little 4 cylinder.
 

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