Seized jd 1955 60

I need help getting my grandfathers 60 unseized it has been sitting for 16 years after his death. It has been passed on it me and I want to restore it in his honor but when we tried to move it in gear it won't move. we checked the valves there great. The only issue were having is it's locked up tight we tried pulling it with a truck no luck. We tried lifting it not luck again. We flooded the cylinders with the mystical oil and wd40

Anyone know any better ideas that doesn't involve taking the engine apart or half the tractor
Thanks Devin
 
well the tractor does roll in neutral out of clutch ik this because a skid steer put it into our garage so I'm not sure if that's what ur referring to
 
Depends on how bad it?s stuck.

If just condensation, a good soaking and some persuasion, it might break loose.

Good chance it will have some stuck rings that will come back to haunt you later.

But if it?s sat with liquid water in the cylinders, it will have to come apart.
 
well it was covered mostly it had a cap over the stack but that cap had a tiny hole in the middle of it so some water could get into it and when we drained the oil out of the tractor some water came out not alot but some
 
Put the tractor in high gear and snap the clutch in. Keep the spark plugs out. Get
a couple of husky fellows, one on each rear wheel and rock the tractor back and
forth. Put a small chalk mark from the belt pulley onto the frame and see if the
line moves. You can also take a spray can and try to get complete coverage inside
the cylinder through the spark plug hole. While you are sleeping, keep the front
end elevated a bit so any oil in the cylinders will tend to run down beside the
pistons. As in most seized engine situations, patience is indeed needed. Good luck!

Ben
 
Well first off WD40 is not worth the time or $$ for a problem like that. Jack the front of it up about 2 foot. The fill the cylinder with ATF after you have gotten as much of the other stuff out as you can. But if it has sat with an open exhaust pipe so rain can get in nothing is going to free it up till you take it apart. Also if there is any water in the cylinders nothing will help till you have that water out of them
 
On some of the froze up tractors I have
made a air fitting with a old spark plug
and after I put Bb blaster and atf mix in
the spark plug hole I put a pan cake air
compressor an about 100 psi or more to
that cylindar and let it sit for a few
days. Of course you have to loosen the
rockers so the valves are close and it
has been working good so far. Then agian
like the guys are saying for the chance
if water got in there your best to take
it apart.
 
on farther inspection today we pulled the stack off and from what we can see no water got down the stack so the piston should be free of rust
 
By the way I forgot to say this. Pour as much ATF down the exhaust as you can till it starts to leak some place. My 1935 JD B that was my grandfathers sat locked up for 15 plus years and after I fill the cylinders with ATF and filled the exhaust it free up in less then a week
 
just wanted to say we tried all the idea posted here and no dice it won't give so I guess out next plan is to either tear it apart or pull it with a bigger tractor
 
My 1947 model A was struck. As others
have stated ATF (I mixed ATF with
acetone) Fill both cylinders and let it
sit. I did not touch for several months.
It should free up if water has not
entered the cylinders.
 
(quoted from post at 13:21:04 04/03/20) just wanted to say we tried all the idea posted here and no dice it won't give so I guess out next plan is to either tear it apart or pull it with a bigger tractor
Some very good advice has been given here; a bigger tow tractor should not even be a option to consider.
 

I hope that you are kidding about the larger tractor .
You said all four valves move freely ?
As previously stated. Adjust the valve lash to have the exhausts open and the intakes closed. Pour diesel fuel down the exhaust stack.
If the engine is not equipped with a coolant heater for winter starting. Purchase a 1500W unit and fill the coolant system. Plug it in for a few days and get her warmed up. Thermal expansion will unstick some components.
Particularly if one component is aluminum and the other is cast iron. Two different expansion rates.
I still think that pulling the head and looking at the bore would be wise . Odds are the guides are worn, the seats and valves due for a trueup , the head gasket surface milled flat.
In all likelihood the gasket sealing surfaces for the intake and exhaust are eroded. They need to be milled flat or if required welded up and milled flat. Just plain nasty when the exhaust blows out there.
If the exhaust manifold is rusted and busted. A LP manifold set solves that problem.
 
just wanted to say before moving on that inorder to get this specific tractor freed up it took 3 different methods
1,we had to remove the head to hit the pistons with a wood block and a hammer

2 a shiv come along hooked to the flywheel and the axle tighen to tight only

3 a 4 foot pipe wrench on the. Pto shaft and jumping on the wrench until it can free

All three combined finally freeded the tractor and it worked wonderfully thank you all for ur help now we are rebuilding and painting
 

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