Replacing Pivot Balls In Lift Arms

ScottNC

Member
In the past I've cut off worn 3-point lift arm ends and welded on new ones. Tractor Supply has the pivot balls by themselves. Got me to thinking, the factory crimp on the lower lift arm ends are giving up on one of my tractors. I think implement side load in the past did the damage. Neither the arms or the balls are worn that bad, it's just the crimp has giving way to the point the balls are about to come out.

Is it practical to re-peen/crimp the balls?
 
This picture was shared on "YT" by a fellow YT'ER...credits to the individual? who left this pic......

Bob..
cvphoto40848.jpg
 
The way I do them if take a big washer and weld it on. Yes you do have to hammer it a bit so it fits like it should but not all that hard to do.
 
(quoted from post at 10:08:21 11/04/19) In the past I've cut off worn 3-point lift arm ends and welded on new ones. Tractor Supply has the pivot balls by themselves. Got me to thinking, the factory crimp on the lower lift arm ends are giving up on one of my tractors. I think implement side load in the past did the damage. Neither the arms or the balls are worn that bad, it's just the crimp has giving way to the point the balls are about to come out.

Is it practical to re-peen/crimp the balls?

Replacing the lift sockets is questionable depending on how they are made.

Some are just a thick washer like lip welded on to the lift bar and you take a grinder of some type and cut it off. The socket falls out. Replace the socket and weld the washer thing back on.
Done.

Others and I think some New Holland were like this... had a groove cut into the lift socket on both sides, and would only go in one way. You had to finagle them out and replace with new ones, and naturally these were more expensive sockets.

The last kind I'm familiar with is the old forged in kind. Not replaceable by any easy method. You might could heat and beat the lip like Dad did to keep from losing it and close it up a bit.
It takes quite a bit of heat and some serious directed framming on it.
 

I meant to add that most of the ones I've replaced for people were the round weld in types that consists of the round part you weld in and the lift socket.
Like this... well dangit I can't get it to link but search google for Speeco lift ball sockets and you'll see the images for the type I'm talking about.
 
I have done it that way also. Last summer did the drag link on lawn mower that way tight as new. I am not the only thing tight!
 
Quote:
What book Is that from

I have no idea........I believe one of the "YT" members from Australia shared this info a while back....?

Bob..
 

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