1948 Farmall Super A

I put a new carb and fuel cut off on the 1948. I have cleaned it up pretty good and greased everything. I bought a new battery and have done my best to the little Super A going again. It ran fine until I stated cleaning it up and possibly moved the spark plug wires. I can't get it to start. I have followed the original manual and still have had no luck. The tractor has been in the family, since it was purchased. At any rate, I'll take it to a good mechanic, if I can find one. I live 50 miles North of Houston, Texas. Looking for a Farmall expert to help me get it running again. I loaded it on the lowboy today and was going to haul it out to Chappell Hill, Texas to a general repair shop, out in the country, so to speak, but, before I make this move, I wanted to see if anyone had any leads on a specialist. I need a person with good knowledge on the magneto, plug wiring and timing, so the starting problem is resolved real easily. Please forgive me, if asking this is not proper. If okay, please let me know of anybody that is versed in getting an old Farmall going. I haul it up to two hours from my location, if I have to go that far. I would think there is someone within an hours drive. Thx!!

Welcome MagnoliaMan!

I suspect we can talk you through this with a little back and forth question and answer.

The firing order is 1342, clockwise looking at the end of the cap from the rear. The top right is #1.

Have you determined if it has fire to the plug end of each wire? You can put a spark plug in each wire, one at a time, ground the base, crank the engine through and watch for a spark.

If no spark, try disconnecting the kill wire from the mag. If still no spark try gaping and cleaning the points.

Do you hear the impulse spring clacking inside the magneto when cranking? If not, it won't make a spark at cranking speed.

A simple test of the engine and fuel system in general, with the ignition off (mag grounded), remove the air filter hose from the carb, hold your hand tightly over the air inlet of the carb, crank the engine through. You should get a strong, steady vacuum against your hand, and your hand will be wet with gas.

No vacuum, there is a stuck valve or other mechanical problem.

No gas, there is a fuel delivery problem. (There will have to be vacuum to get fuel.)

Let us know, we'll see what we can do for you.

Steve@Advance Welcome MagnoliaMan!

The firing order is 1342, clockwise looking at the end of the cap from the rear. The top right is #1.

(I pretty certain -99% that I have the firing right. I'll double check.)

Have you determined if it has fire to the plug end of each wire?
(Yes. It is hot. It backfires and has blown the muffler flapper cap off three times!! Extremely feat to do so, because it is tight!)

If no spark, try disconnecting the kill wire from the mag. If still no spark try gaping and cleaning the points. (I haven't been in the magneto to set of clean points, since it has sparks. I may need to do something here anyway??)

Do you hear the impulse spring clacking inside the magneto when cranking? If not, it won't make a spark at cranking speed.
(Yes. It clacks)

A simple test of the engine and fuel system in general, with the ignition off (mag grounded), remove the air filter hose from the carb, hold your hand tightly over the air inlet of the carb, crank the engine through. You should get a strong, steady vacuum against your hand, and your hand will be wet with gas.
(I have done this and it a sucking, has vacuum. It actually drips gas out the bottom of the carb, even though the carb is brand new.)

No vacuum, there is a stuck valve or other mechanical problem.
(I think this is not on the table. Thank goodness. It used start right up until I started messing with it.)

No gas, there is a fuel delivery problem. There will have to be vacuum to get fuel.

Let us know, we'll see what we can do for you.
(I will check things over again, but I'm pretty frustrated to be honest. I was told by my father in law that it is hard to get the timing right and I don't know that I got the timing off. The crazy backfiring thing I have tells me something, but I'm not sure what that is. I was told by a mechanic to ignore the firing order in the owners manual and switch the wires up until it started. I did NOT do this and think that is some sketchy advise to be frank.)


I sure want to pay someone to get it going so I can plow some ground and make a little garden.

Did you have the mag off the engine?

If so, it may be 180* out of time.

The backfiring is almost certainly an ignition timing issue.

To verify the timing, remove the #1 spark plug, hold your finger over the hole, hand turn the engine until you feel compression. Keep turning until the timing mark lines up. The rotor should now be pointing at the #1 position on the cap. You should also hear the impulse spring release at the same time the timing mark aligns. Be sure you are turning the engine to the right.

Other issues that can cause ignition related backfire, carbon tracked distributor cap, or moisture under the cap.

With those kind of backfires, it's gotta be ignition timing. Went through that years ago with my M...thought I went deaf for a moment. I'm with Steve, sounds like you have it firing on the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke.

I sure appreciate the help, but I took it to a shop with the owners manual in a bag. I hope they are able to figure it out. I spent too many hours trying, but not getting anywhere. Again, thanks for trying to help me get it going. I only had to take it an hour down the road to a little town called Chappell Hill, Texas.