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Securing a Bolt

F

fixt

Member
I have 1964 Massey 65 with a Perkins D4.203 engine.
I sent my injection pump to Dieseltech for a reseal and any other work he sees fit to do.

My problem lies with the injection pump gear. 3 5/16NF bolts hold it on and then there is a lock plate. The lock plate is no longer available and revision shows 3 lock washers. Considering the high vibration environment, that's just not a very good choice.

What I am thinking of is using Stainless Nord Lock washers with a dab of blue loctite to secure those bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP5M7Q8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What do you think?
 
Drill the heads and wire them.
cvphoto23790.jpg
 
If your really worried about the bolts loosening, use the red loctite.Don't worry about the washers.
 

Thanks.
I thought about drilling and wiring them.
That's definitely a consideration.

I really don't care for red loctite due to it's high release temp of 500 F.

Anybody ever used Nord Lock wedge washers?
Dang thingys are expensive, but if they work....
 
You don't need the plate, Perkins stopped using it and now use lock washers on those bolts. Actually even lock washers are not needed as IH just uses grade eight bolts only on the pump drive gear on 300/400 series engines.
 
Forgot to add, in all my years of pump repair on CAV DPA pumps with the bolt on drive gear I've NEVER seen ANY bolts come loose. The bolts also have help driving the hub with the dowel pin in the gear that enters the hub face groove for correct timing alignment. My MF Super 90 I tractor pull with has the same setup, and the drive works fine even though the engine now will pull 200 plus HP on the dyno with the stock appearing, highly modified injection pump. Both Ford and Perkins used that drive style with no trouble I've ever seen in over forty years of pump repair. Use lock washers and forget about it.
 

Well I admit I've agonized over this. There is a lock plate kit made but none I've found in the USA and none for AD4.203 Perkins. Revisions show 3 lock washers, ugh.
I kind of figured in a high vibration environment it would need SOMETHING or it wouldn't have had a lock plate to begin with.

I mean, if it came loose it could real expensive in a real hurry.

That's the reason I was considering lock wiring and alternate methods to a lockwasher internal to the engine. I just don't think much of lockwashers.
Maybe lockwashers AND some blue loctite would work fine. It's 5/16 NF bolts so torque at max is about 29 ft lbs for a grade 8. I don't know what the book says for torque value, maybe 25?.
 
We did a study on the Nord Lock washers at work, the resulting preload after applying the correct torque is all over the map. I
blame this on the ratcheting operation of the ramps as the bolt is tightened. I would not use them in a critical application such
as a fuel inject pump. I would vote for properly applied "blue" Loctite.

Rich
 
The pump drive does not have the "high vibration" you think it has. The pump that DOES vibrate a lot is the Ambac International M 100 distributor pump, Loctite is a must for that pump to stay together, especially the head assembly hold down screws..
 

fixt, don't forget that connecting rod nuts have no lock washers, but that you are depending on the stretch of the bolt. Don't forget that not all stainless steel is harder than all common steel. I would use grade 8 lock washers and research the correct torque for the bolt being used.
 

Well OK.
Based on the opinion of people that know far more than I about such things, I'll go with the lock washers (ugh) and a dab of loctite 243 (blue) to make me feel better.

I'll swing by the hardware and pick up some new grade 8 stuff.
There's one about 10 miles away that is my go to for grade 8 hardware, he has a very good selection. The local ACE has very few NF thread bolts, mostly chinesium junk and lower grade at that. Some bolt threads look like they were rolled with a corn cob.

I appreciate the help everyone. I feel better about it now.
I think it will be OK.
 
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