cvphoto16171.jpg


cvphoto16172.jpg


cvphoto16173.jpg

I have bought a MF 35 that was put away by the owner in shed to be forgot till his death. According to his daughter it was put in the shed running 3years ago. Fast forward to the present; the MF is non running
when I bought it. The engine a continental gas turns over with a jump. I plan on hauling it back to the farm. Checking fuel to carb, then spark at the coil, spark plugs, and pull plugs to see condition.
This is my first attempt at starting a tractor that has been in storage a long time. I would appreciate any suggestions on what would be the best way to proceed. I do not want to start throwing parts at the old girl.
I even thought about pulling the plugs after doing a compression check and dumping a small amount of gas in each cylinder. Thank you for your help. Will keep you posted on what I find in my new adventure.
 
Year Starting Serial Number
1956 500001
1957 510764
1958 515708
1959 522693
1960 528163
1961 528419
1962 529821
1963 533422
1964 536063

Service Manual and Operators manual a must...to easily to spend $$$$$$$ in the wrong areas.....
Welcome to "YT"

Bob....Owner of MF FE X 35 and other colored Tractors...
cvphoto16206.jpg



cvphoto16207.jpg
 
My suggestion would be to put a tablespoon of clean engine oil and NOT gasoline in the cylinders after your compression test. This will help lubricate the cylinder walls after its been sitting. You'll get plenty of smoke at start-up but that will clear. Fresh gas in the tank too. That will be a great tractor for you when it gets back to work.
 
Now that I know what I have bought, I can start buying manuals and parts books. Did that today. Thought of what is the most likely causes of not starting. These are my ideas bad battery, stale gas, plugged in tank strainer, and dirty carb.Where do the rest of you think I should go to next? Since the old girl has been sitting in shed for over 3 years, maybe by doing the items listed. I can get her started. Would you give her some starting fluid?
I would kind of like to try replacing battery and stale gas and see if she starts. It would be nice to know what actually worked or did not work. If she starts then I can proceed with replacing wiring, distributor cap, points and plugs. along with changing all the fluids.
 
Three years is not a long time for storage, especially if it was under a roof.

I would start with a little oil in each cylinder, leave the plugs out because you'll want to spin the oil out first.

Next, crack each oil drain plug, engine, trans, intermediate housing, and differential housing. Don't take them out, just loose and see if any water comes out. Let the water drip, then tighten the plugs back. Check all fluid levels, the power steering, and antifreeze.

You'll need to drain the gas tank. The safest way will be to remove the sediment bowl, open the valve and drain it with a long funnel. Next remove the drain plug from the carb bowl, let it drain. Try to use a clean bucket so you can see what drains out. If it's clean and clear, not cloudy with water, or excess grit and rust, you might get by without cleaning or replacing the tank.

Clean the sediment bowl and screen, replace the bowl gasket if needed. Put some gas in the tank, open the fuel valve and watch what comes out the carb drain. There should be a steady stream, not a drip or nothing at all. If there is a good flow, replace the plug, watch to see that the carb doesn't overflow. Remove the air cleaner hose to watch for dripping fuel.

If there is no fuel through the carb, or it floods, the carb will need to come off and be cleaned. It is a simple job, sometimes it can be eased apart without tearing the gasket. Just clean it up with spray carb cleaner, check the float to be sure there is no gas inside, put it back together. There is how to info on the net if you need it.

If the battery was stone dead, might as well find a good, fully charged battery, or get a new one. Before connecting the battery, look things over around the electrical harness and components. Look for chewed wiring, mouse and bird nests, anything out of place. I like to leave one battery cable loose enough to quickly remove, just in case...

Spin the oil out of the cylinders. Be careful, it will come out with force and make a mess! Put the plugs back in.

Check for spark at the coil. If no spark, chances are the points are corroded from sitting. You can clean them with a point file and some carb cleaner. Check the gap, check out the distributor for side play on the shaft bushings. Check the centrifugal advance, be sure it isn't rusted in position. (The worn bushings and stuck advance won't stop it from running, just something to be aware of).

It should now be ready to start. Those typically don't need much choke, just a quick pull then back open. It will smoke heavily at first from the oil in the cylinders. Be sure it gets oil pressure. The oil pump is above the oil level. Sometimes they loose prime from sitting. Removing the front wheels and dropping the front to the ground will submerge the pump if it needs priming.

Hope this helps, let us know how it goes...
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top