Help! Broken shift lever on JD 620

NLFARMGIRL

New User
Like an idiot, I tried to force my shift lever on my 620 a couple of days ago, and there must be ice in the bottom of the transmission or something. Long story short, I broke the shift lever. It looks kind of rusty where it broke, so I suspect it was already cracked there. I want to try to fix this myself. Can anybody direct me to a good how-to resource? A repair manual that I could buy, or online tutorials or videos? Thanks for any help you might be able to offer.
 

You will need to remove it, which should not be hard. It should just come out with the transmission cover which should just lift off after removing the bolts. Then you need to use your grinder to grind both sides down to where they are around 1/4 in diameter where they touch. then just weld the two ends together, doing a little here and a little there, side to side, and backend forth. You should stop and check periodically with your slag hammer to see if any slag wants to pop off.
 
Showcrop has given you reasonable advise on welding it. However, I don't think they are just simply "mild" steel.

They are some type of hardened or "casehardened" steel and MAY break again from embrittlement near the weld.

That being said, some years back, I welded a shift lever from a diesel 720 (expecting it would probably break soon), it didn't get much of a test, through, 'cause the owner passed away soon after, and the tractor sits unused in a leaky barn. I have offered the widow a more than fair price, but she won't sell it, it's as if she figures her husband will be back soon to use it. (Any of us who enjoy old iron have seen that scenario before, as it rots away.)

Even if you weld it, I would do some searching of wrecking yards and used parts suppliers to try to find one to have on hand in the event it DOES break again.

Surprisingly, they ARE still available from Mother DEERE, Part #A4565R, @ "ONLY" $422.00!
 
The end where it engages the shift rails will be flame hardened. Probably looks blue or gray but fades to steel color away from the end. If the break is close to it you'll change the hardness. If it's some distance away weld a little at a time letting it cool in between.
 
Like others said, that is hardened or case hardened steel.

Nothing to loose by trying, but unless you have welding experience, best take the part to a professional welder that has experience welding that type steel.

They have equipment, techniques, and experience that will give the most likely success. The first try will be the best shot at it. If it is poorly welded and breaks again, chances are it will need to be replaced.
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:54 01/12/19) Showcrop has given you reasonable advise on welding it. However, I don't think they are just simply "mild" steel.

They are some type of hardened or "casehardened" steel and MAY break again from embrittlement near the weld.

That being said, some years back, I welded a shift lever from a diesel 720 (expecting it would probably break soon), it didn't get much of a test, through, 'cause the owner passed away soon after, and the tractor sits unused in a leaky barn. I have offered the widow a more than fair price, but she won't sell it, it's as if she figures her husband will be back soon to use it. (Any of us who enjoy old iron have seen that scenario before, as it rots away.)

Even if you weld it, I would do some searching of wrecking yards and used parts suppliers to try to find one to have on hand in the event it DOES break again.

Surprisingly, they ARE still available from Mother DEERE, Part #A4565R, @ "ONLY" $422.00!

Thank you for the information. :) I appreciate the part number. I had done a bit of digging and came up with that number too. Worthington tractor parts and one other place had that part listed for $75 to $85. I'm not sure if it's a salvage part or a knockoff. But I'm inclined to try that rather than welding hardened steel. I appreciate the suggestions, though. My biggest problem is that I've never been inside a jd 2 cylinder transmission, not even my dad's old 1937 B John Deere. I know it's different than this anyways. The shift lever pulled right out the top of the 620 transmission cover. It looks like it snapped st a point where it was machined to be a little narrower. Would an I&T manual give me enough detail to remove and replace what's left of the shift lever? I for sure don't want to leave any parts and pieces in the bottom of the transmission case.
Thanks for any help you might be able to offer!
Nikki
 
(quoted from post at 21:55:23 01/12/19)
(quoted from post at 10:30:54 01/12/19) Showcrop has given you reasonable advise on welding it. However, I don't think they are just simply "mild" steel.

They are some type of hardened or "casehardened" steel and MAY break again from embrittlement near the weld.

That being said, some years back, I welded a shift lever from a diesel 720 (expecting it would probably break soon), it didn't get much of a test, through, 'cause the owner passed away soon after, and the tractor sits unused in a leaky barn. I have offered the widow a more than fair price, but she won't sell it, it's as if she figures her husband will be back soon to use it. (Any of us who enjoy old iron have seen that scenario before, as it rots away.)

Even if you weld it, I would do some searching of wrecking yards and used parts suppliers to try to find one to have on hand in the event it DOES break again.

Surprisingly, they ARE still available from Mother DEERE, Part #A4565R, @ "ONLY" $422.00!

Thank you for the information. :) I appreciate the part number. I had done a bit of digging and came up with that number too. Worthington tractor parts and one other place had that part listed for $75 to $85. I'm not sure if it's a salvage part or a knockoff. But I'm inclined to try that rather than welding hardened steel. I appreciate the suggestions, though. My biggest problem is that I've never been inside a jd 2 cylinder transmission, not even my dad's old 1937 B John Deere. I know it's different than this anyways. The shift lever pulled right out the top of the 620 transmission cover. It looks like it snapped st a point where it was machined to be a little narrower. Would an I&T manual give me enough detail to remove and replace what's left of the shift lever? I for sure don't want to leave any parts and pieces in the bottom of the transmission case.
Thanks for any help you might be able to offer!
Nikki

How much do you have disassembled so far?

I'm GUESSING the "ball" machined at the lower end of the lever, and a bit of the lever are missing.

How much you will have to take apart depends upon whether the broken part is still lying in the shift rail mechanism, where it can be easily retrieved with a mechanic's magnet, or if it has fallen deep into the bowels of the transmission.

2ym7uk4.jpg
 
Holy cow!

It's looking like I'm going to have to do some fishing. My poor 620 is sitting next to my shed, in northern Minnesota. I covered the ol' girl up, and will probably leave her be until the weather warms a bit. It was hovering around zero when I broke the shift lever. I used to be crazy enough to fish around in zero degree gear lube to find missing parts, but I'm a nurse and I have to take better care of these hands. :) That exploded diagram gives a pretty good idea of what I'm missing. I haven't removed anything as of yet, other than the broken shift lever. It seems to have broken about two-thirds of the way down, right where the first narrow spot is machined into the lever. unfortunately ALL of the stuff seems to have dropped down into the transmission. But I guess I won't know for sure until I get that top cover off. Hopefully at least part of it will still be sitting in place. The exploded diagram you provided shows me all of the things that need to be attached to the shift lever, but do you have any diagram of how that lever fits into the shift linkage inside the transmission?
Thanks again,
Nikki
 
"how that lever fits into the shift linkage inside the transmission"

Once the missing parts are retrieved and the lever is repaired or replaced, the lever simply drops down into the slotted "arms" on the shift rails.

The rails either have to me positioned in the "neutral position" or you have to figure out where the lever was when it broke and insert it at that angle. (More ore less.) Probably easier to be sure the rails are in the "neutral position" before truing to stab the lever in.

In addition to that, there are two shift "stations", one for the lower speeds/gears, and one for the higher speeds/gears, and the lever has to be inserted do it catches the "range shifter", so it needs to be towards the "shift station" where it was when it broke.

IIRC, the upper "ball" machined on the shift lever handles the "range shift" (DEERE called it overdrive) and the lower "ball" machined on the shift lever makes the individual forward gear and reverse shifts.
 
Bob, you've been a big help. I can't thank you enough for all of the really good information. With the diagram you've provided, I now know what all of the pieces look like that I will need to fish out of the bottom of the transmission, and I also know what things need to look like when they are put back in place. I'm guessing once I get the top cover off I will understand better what the shift rails look like, etc.
Thanks again,
Nikki
 
I would think if the top cover is still on the parts are still sitting in there held by the shift forks and can't drop down all the way. Now when the top is lifted off a real good chance then the parts will be able to fall down in. If that happens it may be real hard to fish them out. If you can see any of the bottom part of the lever you may want to try to stick it with a strong magnet to hold it as you lift the top off ? Any medical clamps small enough to fit in there and lock on ? Good luck either way.
 

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