New Ignition key issues

I just installed a new starter switch in my JD
1010.
Also installed a new regulator.

The start up is great (for the first time since
I've owned it!) but when I shut the key off, the
engine keeps running.

I tested the key with a multimeter and noticed a
small bleed to ground when the key is in the off
position.

I'm thinking this is two different issues(?) So 1.
What have I done wrong with initial wiring that
the shut off does not work, and 2. Is the bleed to
ground normal? ( seems like it would slowly drain
battery.)
 
Are you diagnosing this "bleed to ground" with a voltmeter, ohmmeter, or amp-meter? The amp scale is the best way if it's really going to cause any problems. If it's less then 30 milliamps, it's not going to be a problem.

If the tractor won't shut off , then obviously the coil is still getting power. That's a common problem when Delco 10SI, 12SI or 18SI alternators are wired into the system. Still have a brushed generator with a mechanical regulator or a solid-state alternator with a built in regulator?
 
I've also seen such happenings on tractors that were converted to Delco 10 SI family of alternators. Thats the reason a diode or resistor or an idiot light etc is installed to reduce alternator feedback voltage that powers up the coil even if IGN is turned off. If its a generator set up, perhaps shes miswired or theres a short somewhere?? Hard to tell over the net.

John T
 
Well yes this thing is wired wrong.

Background: This is a 12v positive ground with a generator.

Instructions on the net with picture of new switch said:
B - Power from battery off of starter post
S - to starter solenoid
I - to coil
F - to "Gen" post on voltage regulator

But I got this from an old wiring diagram:
S - starter solenoid
F - no wire
B - to L post on voltage generator
I - to coil

I tried the first array and it won"t shut off, so should I just try the second array?
 
Cool, since its a Genny, disregard the comments about a Delco Alternator, and concentrate of the switch wiring or other ignition issues. Its a simple volt and ohm meter trace out project

John T
 
The 2nd version of wiring is correct. But it has nothing to do with your 1010 turning off or not. The "B" terminal on the ignition switch needs 12 volt negative power and it doesn't really matter if it comes direct from the battery or from the "L" post on the voltage regulator. The important thing here is the "I" terminal on the ignition switch. It sends power to the coil and there should be absolutely nothing else hooked to it. You've either got something wrong with your ignition switch or there something hooked to the coil-power wire that should not be.

By the way, the "F" terminal on the ignition switch is not used (at least not on any 1010 diagram I've seen). The "GEN" post on the voltage regulator is wired to the armature post on the generator and to the charge "idiot" light.



S - starter solenoid
F - no wire
B - to L post on voltage generator
I - to coil
 

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