PROOFMETER REPAIR>> HELP NEEDED!

Hey folks,
I need a hand figuring out the mystery of the hour meter wheels in a proofmeter I am trying to repair. I know... I know......, but I can't pass up a challenge.
I have managed to disassemble and assess the workings. Found the one 'plastic' gear stripped in a section, but got the brass gears freed and cleaned up. Repaired the gear with epoxy and filed new teeth.
Got the hour wheels off the rusted shaft, cleaned shaft up and now trying to reassemble the wheels. For the life of me, I can't figure out how they function. Obviously, the first wheel has to go around a complete rev (1,2,3....0), then drive the neighboring wheel only one 'click', and then keep rotating for another '10'...etc, etc. I have studied the relationships for hours....but can't quite make it come together. Guess a big sticking point is understanding the thin plastic 'hooks' that point in opposite directions that are part of the black disc which houses the tiny drive gear between the number wheels. The tiny gear seems to be driven by a slot in the wheel to its right, and drive the wheel to its left. I see there are two different heights to the 'pins' on the tiny gear ...which makes me feel the slot will drive it only when engaging a high pin, but not at some point (? when the 'hook' meets frame)
In any case, I tried to search here....found some [u:c0c4affcb2]old[/u:c0c4affcb2] threads on the subject, but only one from member " bg " that referred to pictures and explanation of proofmeter workings....but alas, could not find the pics or info.
SO......if anyone out there can tell me how to arrange the wheels and hooks to make this work, I would sure appreciate it. :?
THANKS!!!

Hmmmmmm......not much info/experience out there apparently.

OK....guess I will try to post what I have figured out so far. Might help someone else in this situation. :?

Take wheel assembly out of the frame, disassemble and smooth up the shaft.
Reassemble all wheels and black discs on the shaft (the discs house the tiny gears and are between each wheel).....
Start at the righthand geared wheel, hold it still and rotate the neighboring wheel to the left by rotating the 'forward' hook of the black disc. Leave the brass keeper off the shaft...you will need the
space ..but don't let the wheels slip off as you go!
Then hold [u:2696a309eb]both[/u:2696a309eb] those wheels still and rotate the next wheel to the left by moving the forward black hook.
Repeat this for the next wheel to the left while you hold [u:2696a309eb]all[/u:2696a309eb] the previous wheels still.
Here's the tricky part... you must bring that hook in line with the one to the right (as if both were engaging the metal frame) AND check to see if the numbers are in a straight line as well! If not, you must separate the wheels slightly, fiddle with the tiny gear which is then free to rotate, reengage the wheels having shifted the tiny gear a tooth or two, and see if the numbers line up when the hooks do. Do not move any 'wheels to the right' while adjusting the tiny gear engagement.
Repeat this process for each wheel as you work to the left.
Check that all black 'forward' hooks line up and that all numbers are in a straight line. Even one tooth difference on every tiny gear position will affect this.
Push the brass keeper on the shaft tight against the righthand wheel and you should be set......I THINK !!!!
When you put drum back in the frame, all the 'forward' hooks should engage the metal and all numbers should be in the same line.

Guess I answered my own question.....(maybe ????) I'll post again when all back together and hopefully working.
At least the hours I spent scratching my head trying to puzzle this out might help someone else. 8)

Now if anyone out there has a dead proofmeter for a JD 2630 that I could scavenge.....please let me know! Or a source for the little 'green plastic' horizontal gear. Not convinced my epoxy method to repair that gear will hold up. The others are brass.